The Wingnut

Next step, Monster conversion!

Looks like it's heating up.

Those might be Rota RBs, which are pretty high quality.

Hrm, looks as if I should have checked the dates on this thread before posting, myself.

To help HDC, there are brackets being sold to mount 240 / 260 bumpers in the stock 240 location on all S30 chassis. The rear mount is very straightforward, remove the tow hooks and stock bumpers, bolt up the brackets to the tow hook mounting holes, mount the bumper to the bracket. The front brackets are a bit more complex, and I've lost the link to the company where I saw them or I'd post it. I've collapsed the bumper shocks on my 260 and removed all the rubber trim. When it comes back from painting I'll be remounting the bumpers and they'll look like USDM 240 / Euro & JDM S30 units. It's your car, do what you want with it. Take what people say on the internet with a grain of salt, and search before you post so you don't have to ask something that might already have been covered in detail. ...just a warning, CZC has a lot of purists! Tread lightly.

ANYTHING? CF every panel that's not welded to the chassis. Doors, hatch, hood, fenders, valence, cowl. Lexan windows, full cage, no interior. Stroker L28, independent throttle bodies, DFI, crank trigger ignition, OS Giken twin cam head, straight pipe with dumps at the rocker in front of the rear wheels coming from a 6 into 2 header, ZG flares, Watanabe RS-8s...I'm out of ideas. So, care to hear the realistic version?

I just dropped mine off at paint jail today. I'm paying around $1100 for all the bodywork(not including actual paint, which will probably be another $1000), without paint itself. This includes straightening a 1/4, replacing the doglegs which are shotgunned with holes, pulling the bondo from both fenders and fixing whatever damage is hiding there, pulling the bondo from the hood and fixing the damage there, pulling dents out of the rockers, filling the molding holes(welding) and a few more details. I stripped the majority of the paint and removed the trim, handles, locks and taillights myself. This saved me about $500 according to the manager. I'd actually recommend stripping the car yourself if you have the space and time to do it, as you'll know in advance what's damaged and / or hidden and will need repair, and it should save you some dough. I'd suggest shopping around as many places you can possibly find. Concentrate less on the price / turnaround time and more on the level of trust and confidence you get from the person you talk to.

Sill plate is up there. Vin is HLS3002761, assuming it's not been digitally altered.

I'm going for this. http://www.thewingnut.com/images/z/pale_z.jpg It's off-white with a dark red. Trying to mimic the Japanese national racing colors of the '60s.

I don't think that's the problem. The posting rules at the bottom of the page says ' code is Off', before I've put anything into the message box.

Going into paint jail tomorrow. Repaint 01 Repaint 02 Repaint 03 Repaint 04 ...for some reason it won't let me simply post these as images.

My blower motor is dead as well. Where exactly is this extra fuse holder? On the blower / heater core housing?

I've named all of my cars, but I'm having a ridiculously tough time naming the Z. Part of it has to do with the car's gender...I can't really figure it out. It's like a parrot, they need genetic tests to determine their genders(or you can wait 'til they lay an egg!). My first two cars, Plymouth Furys, were female. The first was a '68 named Maybelle, after her first owner, Maybelle Etheridge of Vallejo, CA. I still have the cancelled check that paid for her in '69. The second Fury was a '72 named Leslie, someone else had scrawled this in big letters on a spare part that I had for her. She was a patrol car and still had police wheels, a spotlight, pushbars, dogdish hubcaps, a police radio, CB and FIVE antennas. My grandpa's '83 LTD wagon lasted 5 days in my care before blowing a casting plug right out of the back of one of the heads and warping both heads due to a stuck thermostat. Having never owned a car with such minimal instrumentation, I had no idea that a red 'check engine' light meant 'PULL OVER NOW!' I had to pay $50 for someone to take Grumpy (aptly named, don't you think?) off my hands. I kinda wish I'd kept him. My grandpa died later from complications after surgery. The Z? I can't figure it out. I've had him / her / it for 3 years now and I'm still at a loss. Of all the cars, it's been through the most. I've moved twice, changed jobs 3 times, spent 5 months away in training with the Air Force, changed out the headgasket and timing chain, changed the carbs, changed the wheels and back again (found a huge crack in one of the new wheels), put on an airdam, and now I'm in the process of stripping it down to the metal in prep for a full repaint. A full suspension rebuild is in the works after I've saved back up. This car's had the most work done to it of all the cars I've owned and it's been driven the most. ...you'd think I'd have the poor thing figured out by now!

I'd like more straight line speed myself, but that's what an LS1 is for. :devious: Anyone have an extra $6k laying around? Next on the list after paint is the suspension, I've got a set of springs and swaybars, now I need bushings and struts. After that, wheels & tires. Maybe I'll work on getting some more speed out of her after that. ...if you want to compare 0-60 and 1/4 times, HybridZ is the place to do it, but be warned, you'll have some tough competition.

Thanks for the help with this. I've got the trim off and the lights back on the car with 2 nuts holding each on. Should be an easy removal when she arrives at the body shop. She's going in there in 5 days! I'm going to be without a car for a month.

I've got no idea as to mine. I'm not launching it hard until I get my Ron Tyler diff brace installed, I've broken two diff mounts already. It's definitely not below the 6 second range, which is when cars start to get 'fast'. ...now, my '68 Fury after I rebuilt the trans and dropped in a 440? Heh. Try high 5-second range. For being 4200 lbs and nearly 18 feet long, that thing MOVED. I miss being able to light the tires up for a full block and getting thrown back in the seat when I stomped on it from a roll. Of course, she cornered like a dump truck with a full load.

Well, I am 'certifiably nuts'.

I've been holding down air cleaners the world over since 1976! :stupid:

Thanks for the feedback...Zulaytr, I like your idea. I'll try that if I have clearance issues. ...actually, I think I can go one better, I just had an inspiration. Since the lid of the airbox is damaged, I can dremel all the way around the outside and remove the snout, essentially creating a flat lid, but maintaining a stock appearance. The hard part is finding the 'masts' to retain the lid with, since they were missing from the car in the yard.

I picked up a stock '72 air cleaner from the junkyard over the weekend with the idea that I could reuse or resell it. Downside, the cover is mangled at the front, the 'snout' was crunched when the car it came out of was HAMMERED into something. The core support and radiator actually came that far back. ...the baseplate, on the other hand, is untouched. I've got english style 'mushroom' air cleaners on the carbs right now, and they've got a opening smaller than the carb throats themselves(horrible!). They don't have an integral venturi, and my understanding is it's rather dumb to run SU style carbs without them. My idea is to cut the baseplate using a Dremel to remove the venturi sections, with the attached gaskets on the backside and mounting holes. I'll cut the bases for the mushroom air cleaners to fit the venturi through them, essentially fitting the cleaners over the venturi assemblies. Anyone see a downside to cut up an orphaned airbox with some damage? Anyone need one desperately? Can I get a load of dough for it and just buy an aftermarket setup with the profit?

Here's what I came up with: Red over off-white My apologies to anyone here if this is your car, I needed something that came as close as possible without too much Photoshop work. Note the car I used has blended ZG flares. If I do go the flare route, I won't be blending them and they'll remain black.

I'm referring to the black plastic surrounds. The 260s used what appear to be the same surrounds as 280s. I believe only 240s used metal surrounds. I didn't see any clips on the bottom, but I'll have another look.

Hey folks, I'm trying to get the black plastic trim pieces off of the back of my 260 so I can prep the areas in the recess around the taillights. I've removed the plastic rivets along the top edge but still can't get them off. What's holding them on? I can't figure it out. This is one of the few things left to do before she goes into the body shop.

Thanks for the help. A diagram would be helpful if it's not too much trouble. Do you have any recommendations for relay amperage and wire gauges? I assume I have a 60 amp alternator, which would dictate a 60 amp relay unless I'm mistaken. Using more than one relay isn't really possible with this fuse bus, as it's got a common power delivery to all of the fuse positions. The is a single input for power to a strip running through all of the fuse positions.

I examined my bumper last night, you're right, they did tear off. It may be possible to rig a bracket of some sort with materials from a hardware store. I'd rather not have to go through the bother of tracking down and swapping in 240 bumper ends. I kept the pieces...I'll look at them and try to come up with a solution.