Mat M

Hello from the Left Coast! I third the way Beandip described, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showpost.php?p=197062&postcount=13

You might as well get used to it! You are now part of the prestige that only Z owners know, and others aspire! Welcome.

Here is the HybridZ approach to running an L28 with no thermostat: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=775386#post775386 No consensus there, either.

You will find a LOT of opinions, but if you do a simple search for "synthetic" you will get 4 pages and 100 threads. Good luck.

I apologize, but the cement to which I was referring, I can not find. I think I threw it out during my last move 2 yrs ago. Still, I am confident the HD carries a product that will suit your needs.

the Home Depot carries a product, I cannot remember the name, that bonds plastic. It is written on the label that one of the uses is for comprimised gasoline tanks, so I believe an evap can would be just fine. I will go up to the barn and try to find the tube of the stuff I bought about 4 yrs ago.

Are the spark plugs new? I had a 4-Runner with a broken plug insulator, it worked 92% of the time, and had an intermittent miss. I pulled the spark plugs and they looked OK (I was looking at the business end, not the insulator) and put them back in. It cost $150 for the sealership tech to tell me what I missed!!!

You may want to do a search for electric fuel pump. It was Marty Rogan who helped me with mine: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24026&highlight=electric+fuel+pump Specifically this post: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showpost.php?p=197940&postcount=10

For my removal, I deleted the belt and the compressor and kept the original crank pulley (3 groove). I now have one belt on 3 grooves (the car originally had an air pump that was quick to come off the engine). There are 2 groove pulleys out there, and I have heard rumors of a single groove one out there...somewhere.

When I removed my system (nearly identical to your pics), there were two holes left in the firewall. I wasn't planning on EVER reusing my system (it was SHOT) so I cut the lines - don't worry enviro-nazis, there was no pressure. I got rid of about 30 pounds of dead weight to boot! I had to cut the very small diameter copper tubing that ran over the trans tunnel under the dash between the fan switch and the evaporator. I couldn't get the thing out of the car without doing that.

I would go about it in this order: 8. Absolutely fix rust first-correctly. When you remove the carpet kit and original weather stripping, make sure there isn't a problem underneath (floorpans under the tar, door sills under the vinyl, etc). 1. IF you have the $$$ ZTherapy is considered the best. I have rebuilt/cleaned mine, which helped a TON, but I think I can get better if I had the duckets. 3. Paint the car AFTER you get it running, and rust free (you will not appreciate the dimples on the thin fenders after the new paint), a good paint job is appropriate IMHO. 2. Then reassemble. 4. More reassembly. 5. See number 2. 6. Original steelies? Those are becoming tough to find. Not to mention the cost of the "D" hubcaps in good condition. Period correct aftermarket wheels are still available and reasonable priced. PM me, I have a couple styles. Well, that's the way I would do it if I had the cash. And the time. And maybe if I was single again....

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11537&page=2&highlight=vent+tank Check out Beandips post #31.

Do a search for electric fuel pump http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24026&highlight=electric+fuel+pump

Here are some helpful links on the Stroker: http://www.geocities.com/inlinestroker/ http://zhome.com/rnt/3.1HanveyProject.htm

I have found that if I upshift before 3000 RPM (around 2500) there is a noticable gain in efficency. But, like anything in life, there is a comprimise - it's not as fun driving that way compared to winding her up to 6K!

Here you go. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=116207 Why not do it yourself? This may help, too. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=119990

GEEZE, rtaylor, what does your boss do (or whom, for that matter )?

. *Pulls up a chair and starts to munch popcorn*

Are the fanbelts on inside out? I have never seen them installed like that, or a belt with the slots on the outside of the pulley.

That's what we are here for! Hope the info helped you. Let us know when you got her back up and running!

If you have a Dremmell type tool, you can use an abraisive disk to cut a slot on the head of those screws and take them out with a straight screwdriver.

Just curious....Where are you located, Art?

Don't use motor oil. Use the white lube. If you have a basting syringe, or a baby snot sucker, that will get your oil out of the dampers, just don't reuse those in the house again!!!

I have the round-tops, but I am using Marvel Mystery Oil in mine (also red). Have you tried making sure ALL the throttle linkaged are properly lubed? I think they are all ball-and-socket joints that can be pulled apart. I have used teflon spray in the past, seems to do the trick.

Could very well be. I was also wondering about the condition of the undercarriage and floor pans...