Mat M

Nice looking, clean 03/70. http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/car/313889592.html here is another CL ad froma few days ago with differnt pics http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/car/310362797.html

Or this: http://www.geocities.com/inlinestroker/index.htm

You may want to read this... http://www.geocities.com/row4navy/engine.html

I don't know about it being THAT detailed, but here is what I did on my 71: 1) unbolt the air pump, chuck it and the belt into the corner. 2) unbolt the diaphragm, file it into the round file. 3) relieve the balance tube of all protuberances and plug resulting holes. (if you really want to go "bling," fill the holes with the appropriate sized bolts, grind off the heads, use appropriate filler and polish smooth. 4) remove gas vapor tank (even though you are thinking not) and install a "manifold" to which all the gas/tank vent lines run.

congratulations on a successful hijack!!! I would be interested in a complete triple SU setup!! I would also like to know what kind of performance comparisons you would be able to test with your resources, as well as the outcomes!

Thanks for the pics, Steve! Looks good. I am wondering if you have installed the shifter yet, and if you had to modify the trans tunnel at all.

Nah, I didn't miss that. it's kinda funny, though. I wonder what it's like to live in a world where I can never be wrong, and everyone else is an idiot.

No flame war intended. IF (and that is the biggest word in the English language) the guy is reasonable, he SHOULD conclude that there are a LOT more people who know A LOT more about ALL the S30s than he does. Heck, I thought I was a know it all before I read EScanlon's and Arne's and jmortensen's....etc.

Maybe he will have a change of heart... Using the "email the seller" function, I sent him the URL to this thread.

Are there any other repair shops near you? On second thought, it may actually be a good thing, that the shop got the info from your insurance, so that the costs shouldn't be a surprize, and go over the amount. The shop knows what the insurance will pay, and that's that. I may be completely naive when it comes to repairs, though. I have a scoop I can part with. PM me if you are interested.

My 01-71 is a locking fuel door.

IME, pedal feel doesn't always translate to brake pressure. I was trying to relay that I hope the reservior stays full with the larger MC using that much more fluid. It almost sounds as if the pads aren't getting the squeezing force from the pistons. Did you check the free play (in and out ability) of the pistons after you plated the calipers? <*scratches head*> That would probably be true for other makes of car, but the S30s brake lines are actually longer on the driver side rear, then passenger rear, then pass. front, then driver front. Strange, but true.

Umm...How does all the air get out of the caliper if the bleeder is on the bottom? MPower280z, what kind of pads are you using? Some (like Hawk) pads need to warm up in order to grab more efficiently. Also, with the larger MC, hopefully you have the correct amount of fluid. Bench bleeding the MC may help. Did you start the bleed cycle with the DRIVER side rear brake, then go around the car counter clock-wise? The DRIVER side brake line is longer than the PASSENGER side, and needs to be bled before the rest.

This same thing actually happened to me with my RX-7. If I were you, I would take the car to as many places as I could, and get as many estimates as I could, making sure the shops include ANY little thing that may need to be addressed once the work had begun. Then I would work it out with the other guy's insurance for the (hopefully higher) settlement check, then do the work myself. In CA, you do NOT have to take your vehicle to an insurance company's preferred vendor, you may take your vehicle to ANY shop for repairs.

I think those are for preventing vapor lock. It has been discussed before.

I am sure that on my 4 speed, the grey serrated "co-ax" style end goes on the tranny. That may be a problem if you have the thing in backwards. I have to edit my orignal reply, I thought you had this problem: you don't have the correct colored splined cog for your 5 speed. The original 4 speeds have the white cog, I believe you need the black one for your early 5 speed... But I didn't read your post of your problem correctly, so forget it!

Linky no worky

I would keep 'em. Especially if you like them. They aren't hurting anything. Besides, if you filled them, it would be a bummer if the hatch area decided not to drain correctly. you would just have to make sure the drain tube is never clogged.

Onuthin, what is the VIN on your car? Mine has a build date of 01-71. She has all the clues of a series I car.

You guys not in CA are lucky. I found some 1963 plates (two sets actually) in an abandoned barn. I asked the lady behind the counter at the local DMV about replacing the newer plates (ie, within 5 years) with these on my wife's 64 Nova. She told me that there was no way to do it.

I have taken some fenders apart that have this "packing" and some that don't. IIRC, the stuff is about 1/8" thick, like a high density foam, or a loose rubber. It was kinda hard to tell after 35+/- years. Of the fenders that did have this stuff, no, you could not tell before disassembly.

I think you have the idea about a lightened flywheel bass-ackward. True it reduces rotating inertia (that's a positive step), but the lower inertia enables the motor to rev to a given RPM quicker (increasing or decreasing), with less resistance. You don't "slow" inertia, you either have it or dont. Higher inertia = more resistance to spinning. The idle RPM will still be the same. One may make the argument that engaging the clutch would be more touchy because the lightened flywheel may no longer have the inertia to overcome the drag as easily.

Oh, yeah, I have a plastic bladed fan up for sale, too.

I would offer them 6500, just to see if they would bite, especially since the employee of the sister of the late (original) owner can't answer your questions. I too would like to see how this endeavor plays out for you. If you are a stickler about stock parts, I have a smog pump and dashpot I would be willing let go...

the second one is described as a 72 in the auction info, then as a 71 in the seller's description. What gives? a 70,000+ VIN is definitely later than a 71. And for the 4th one, how can you have "new original paint"? Agreeing with Enigma; the last one is in the same shape I bought my first one, and would be an excellent starting point.