Everything posted by Mat M
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Need help with fuel issues...
Why? MANY people have been using an electrical fuel pump (including myself) to augment the mechanical. The less restriction for the mech pump, the easier it will be to keep up with the fuel demand at 5-6 thousand RPM. Yes, BUT that's what the float bowls are for. That is the extra fuel supply untill the car has started. As Beandip correctly stated, when the motor is running, every time the lever on the mechanical fuel pump gets actuated by the cam (750 times per minute at idle), the pump will push fuel. This is why I suggested a tear down of the mech FP, to ensure that the diaphragm is not ripped, effectively pumping fuel into the block (as Beandip alluded to earlier) and to ensure that the one-way valves in the pump are still functional.
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#2179 on craigslist in Sacramento
I just saw that this evening! If anyone is interested, I can swing by and snap some more pics and give a report!
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Need help with fuel issues...
STUPID 5 MINUTE EDIT RULE! I meant, if you didn't have fuel at the bowls after a while of cranking the motor, then you would be right to suspect the mech. F.P.
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Need help with fuel issues...
Beandip, you may be on to something. IF you are getting fuel at the bowls, then the mech. pump is working. SuDZ, you haven't mentioned if your float bowls had gas. If it were me, I would tear down the pump for an interior inspection. Easy to do, and easy to put back together!
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Need help with fuel issues...
Now I am, too. I am assuming you have checked all the easy things, like float level, and the proper functioning of the needle valve (is that the correct term?) that is in contact with the float, as well as the proper oil in the domes. And the not-so-easy things like needle seat depth?
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Price for Almost PERFECT Rear Bumper
I have sold slightly tweaked rear bumpers for $65. If I were looking, I would PAY up to $200.
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Price for Almost PERFECT Rear Bumper
I'll give you $15 for it, and I will even drive down to pick it up!
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70 Z goes great for about 4milies then dies
I just found the pickup tube to be corroded on mine. ;o( Radiator shops will boil the tank, then you can POR-15 the thing and not have to ever worry about it again!
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Need help with fuel issues...
The intake tube in your tank may be corroded/varnished/rusted solid after sitting so long. I just found this to be the case with my car. Some days it runs, other times it doesn't. it took me three different electric fuel pumps to get mad enough to drop the tank and blow air through every line the gas could possibly go through. Finally, it ended up being the intake tube, which, on a 71 tank, does not lend itself to removal/cleaning very easily. I used a copper solid core (10 gage) wire and a can of carb cleaner with a straw to ungunk the less than 10 inch tube. Next for me: Radiator shop to boil the tank, then POR-15!!!
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New Club DVD!
I am not worried about the accolades, since I think YOU deserve them all, I am more concerned with actually receiveing the CD!!! Thanks to all that have contributed, but MANY many thanks to you, Mr. Will.
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72 240z won't start
I suggest changing, or at least cleaning all spark plugs. When I have trouble getting my car to start, the plugs foul extremly easily, causing more grief. Even if they don't LOOK wet, they may have a carbon layer affecting spark transfer. What does this mean, anyway?
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rubber floor plugs
You are welcome. 1) Advantage...? I had them in-hand. 2) If you are near a PNP, they are available, probably REAL cheap. 3) Won't work on holes smaller or larger than the floorpan holes. I have yet to find a good plug for where the removed AC lines went through the firewall. I might just have to tack on a plate there.
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Z left me stranded, any help appreciated
I still think Fuel. I have been having mucho problems evicting the gremlins from my car, thinking I had them licked, only to find that they are back with a vengance. I ran for 140 problem free miles, then all the sudden, loss of power, lurching power, tach bouncing all over the place, stumble, solid power for a bit, then boging to a slow death. If I let her sit for a while, she would start right back up, and without load, would rev freely to 5K. BUT, when I would put 'er in gear and try to get home, the thing would NOT rev past 2K. Frustrating and embarrassing. I even had a guy honk at me as he was passing, like I had a choice where I was broken down, and stalled it right where he was driving on purpose! My solution (after my wife came to the rescue) was to install a 73-74 elect. fuel pump using the supplied wiring, jumping the unused "T" connector behind the radio. The pump is loud until I get the car started, then you can't hear it. So far, no more problems, but I have only driven about 15 miles since. BTW, you have pretty much the same set-up for which I am saving my duckets, janaka. I hope this issue gets solved soon! Please let us know what it ends up being!
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1973 240z fuel lines
that's called cross-posting and is a NO NO.
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Need tips on Buying 1977 280z Please.
you must live in Rio Linda!!! :laugh:
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Need tips on Buying 1977 280z Please.
Congratulations on your new purchase! I've lived in many outskirts around Sacramento since 2000, and I have never heard of Racerville. Do you mean Placerville?
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What am I missing?
All that has been mentioned is good, but (not many know this) if your car is an S30, the rear DRIVER side line is actually longer than the pass. side. The next time you bleed the brakes, start on the DRIVER side REAR, and work counter-clock-wise around to the driver front side.
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rubber floor plugs
Hello, Steve, I snapped a couple of pics for you. The plugs without the 'key' fit the floor holes really snug. This plug has the 'key':
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rubber floor plugs
I have found that the plugs for the 280 bumper side covers, the ones without the 'key', fit the floor holes rather well.
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out of sync carbs
Do you have the original (to 1973) flat top carbs? Do the pistons slide easily, or does the front one stick a little?
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Buyer Beware!
stupid 5 minute edit rule..... Here is what I had added, although it was seamless before... I did go looking for a vented gas cap (STANT?) at the local parts places. They have quite a display, but none for us. I think I solved the problem. Or one of them, I'll get to that later. I found that the Beck/Arnley elec. fuel pump I had originally installed only trickled fuel to the filter. I disconnected the soft lines for the vent line that has a two-way action 'T', one to the back of the air cleaner, one to the PCV tube, and the other to the hard line. All was well. So, I tried another fp, a "transistor fuel pump" model 379-00132 by Jidosha Kiki Co. Inc. and this one keeps the fuel filter about 1/4" from the top filled. It's noisy, but you can't really tell after the car starts! I found it in a stash of parts I have, including an adjustable pressure regulator. After I cleaned all 6 fouled plugs, I warmed her up, and took her on a 12 mile loop through the foothills. Even at near 6000 RPM, the motor never seemed to starve. No sputter, no hesitation!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! BUT, and this is what I was alluding to before, now the temp guage is not working. I made sure the connection to the water pump housing was secure, but I don't know where the other end goes once it dies into the loom, but that's for another thread. Sorry for what seems to be a double post....I couldn't edit the previous post to my liking.
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Buyer Beware!
Funny suggestions, guys!! I think I solved the problem. Or one of them, I'll get to that later. The Beck/Arnley elec. fuel pump I had originally installed only trickled fuel to the filter. I tried another fp, a "transistor fuel pump" model 379-00132 by Jidosha Kiki Co. Inc. and this one keeps the fuel filter about 1/4" from the top filled. I found it in a stash of parts I have, including an adjustable pressure regulator. After I cleaned all 6 fouled plugs, I warmed her up, and took her on a 12 mile loop through the foothills. Even at near 6000 RPM, the motor never seemed to starve. No sputter, no hesitation!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I came back to the house with such a big smile on my face, the Wife didn't even ask if I got it fixed! Now the temp guage is not working. I made sure the connection to the water pump housing was secure, but I don't know where the other end goes once it dies into the loom, but that's for another thread. TroubledZ, I have another of these electric fuel pumps if you are interested. The toughest thing is making a bracket that you can hang down from the cross member. The second toughest is finding the 'T' connector near the radio that needs to be shorted so there is power at the location of the new fuel pump when the key is turned on. PM me!
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Cars crushed in street racing crackdown
Here is where it gets fuzzy for me: This sounds like due process to me. Is it not?
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Cars crushed in street racing crackdown
Oh, that was low. Damn funny, but low.