ron32966

If I ground out one of the plug wires on the battery with a spark plug in it, it shows that the pickup coil is working. Thank for your help. Talk to you tomorrow. Ron

The pickup coil from another 280z is magnetized. The new I bought from a parts store is not. Would this make a difference?

Automatic - yes. There seems to be spark at the coil, but doesn't come out of the distributor.

I have a spare coil wire, but it not that. The wire that's on the car tests ok. Yes this is odd. Any other suggestions? Ron

The distributor ('77 280z) has no spark to some of the plugs. If only 3 wires are used, there is a spark; if 6 wires are used, there is no spark to any of them. If one wire goes to ground, it fires. The pick-up coil seems to be working. I've changed the coil and balast resistor, and changed the module and the distributor; no luck - still cannot get all 6 wires to fire, but when 3 wires fire, it's weak. I've changed the (regular) coil, distributor cap, rotor and pick-up coil. Also, I've added another ground wire to the block from the battery. This all does not make sense and I'm at a loss to know why or what needs attention next. It was running good one day, then the next day, no spark to the plugs. Thanks for your help. Ron

Yes, automatic transmission. Ron

When I shift from park to reverse, the engine speeds up. This happens only when shifting slowly. Why does this happen? and how can I fix this? (1977 280Z) Thanks! Ron

When the engine is turned off, the fuel pressure drops to zero within 2 hours (according to the pressure gauge.) It used to stay up for days. If the car sits for a while with out starting up, I have to prime the fuel system to get pressure. Which component would cause it to lose pressure and how do I fix this? ('77 fuel injected z) Ron

GunnerRob - what is the club FSM cd???? Ron

Jim, I'll check that, but I think relay may not be hooked into the bulb sockets.

Thanks for that diagram. Excellent. Now tell me: where is the brake warning lamp check relay is located in the car? Ron

The brake light on dash stays on. ('77 280z) The hand brake switch works ok. Brake warning sensor unit, below master cylinar, is ok, too. Why does the light stay on? It would help to see a wiring diagram. Anyone have one, or have had experience with this before? Thanks!! Ron

After short running time, the carbon deposits on the plugs short out. I installed the hottest plugs I could find (NKG4's) and advanced the timing a little. Is there any way to adjust air-fuel mixture? Is there a problem with advancing the timing too far, like 5 degrees past recommended of 10 degrees? I have a '77 280z fuel injected; compression is 140psi. Thanks for any help. Ron

The front reservoir went empty. I refilled the reservoir, bled the reservoir & wheels; the light still won't go out. How do I reset the light? This is on a '77 280z. Thanks for any help out there. Ron

PS ~ maybe this will help someone else out there who's having a similar problem and has torn apart everything looking for a fix that can't be seen.

Armed with persistance and "stick-to-it-ness" with a lot of patience thrown in, the problem in my fuel line was/is a blocked fuel line at the tank itself. I had the fuel tank cleaned out a while ago. It wasn't done very well so I asked the shop to do it again. I trusted (assumed?) they re-did, which now I know better and all this time the line has been getting blocked with corrosion and particles from the tank. And that's why I wasn't getting any pressure either. Just a word of caution: when a shop tells you they did the job, double check their work if you are able. Don't assume the job was done to your standards or perfection, either. There are many trustworthy shops out there for jobs we can't do, but every once in a while you come across with a lousy one. I will most likely buy a new fuel tank and be done with the old one! Thanks for everyone's help. I really appreciate it. Ron

The vacuum is ok; I put a vacuum guage on it and it good (between 17 and 22 psi.) Thanks for that suggestion, though. It's always good to throw out things that may be the problem. I appeciate that. Ron

Yes they are, Steve. And they're new from Victoria British (they match the old ones.) Thanks for your tip. It's always good to consider something that may not have been thought of before. Very much appreciate it. Ron

Thanks to all of you who've made suggestions and comments. I'm going to keep plugging away at it and will do some bodywork until I can get back to double checking the FI system. I appreciate your help. Ron

I have replace the AFM. The fuel line to the cold-start injector is plugged off. Ron

I've replaced about 90% of all the FI parts and ignition. I plan on doing a total restoration and will put all new parts that are available. I will double check everything eventually. Thanks. Ron

The flow meter is new. I'm going to check the flow meter with the ECU harness. Also, I've double checked the spark plug wires. They're ok. I'll keep at it. Thanks for your suggestions. Ron

Thanks for this manual/book! It's worth it's weight in gold and really has a lot of information I can use. The troubleshooting part is really great. Thanks a lot!

Email is bevron@peoplepc.com for FirstGenZ above and any others who want to help a fellow z'er. Posting here, however, may help others.

I have had the tank cleaned. The fluctuation in the fuel pressure is when the engine is cold. When it gets to about 2000rpm it settles down. Under a load, the engine quits when it's up to 3000rpm. It could be the fuel lines, so I might have to check them.