RIP260Z

Ooh, you are too kind sir!! Too many S30's in the UK have been modified (not a bad thing) but unless a few owners adhere to the original look, a little bit of the cars authenticity is lost. We see threads on here which are a great read about having the correct metal badges for example. I don't see why the flat tops should be any different. They are part of the S30. Jerz, the 260z should be on the road in a couple of months if things go to plan, so some point in the summer I will come and see you.

See post 7 for HS30-H take on the UK front indicators. Nissan UK show car has them on the wrong way. Its also missing the front bumper overrider blanking grommets which are available if you know where to look. I will have to check to see if the maroon car is still around...seen something somewhere...

Hi Jerz, You know who I am, as we have discussed the originality of the UK late spec 260z which I think is RS30-Q. From my understanding...the front indicators were a late addition to the S30 coming to the UK in 1970. It seems that the under the bumper indicators/side lights were too low on the car for the UK authorities. So I presume these were quickly made to suit..I have not seen them on any other Datsun. Just for info, the purple 260z in the publicity photos still exists. Regards Ian

FairladyZS30, There is plenty of info on doing strokers here, and on Hybridz. I would do some homework, I did when I went down this route. But to get the ball rolling, I would use your L24 rods (the 9mm ones are best, though people have used the 8mm ones), if you can, make a torque plate for your reboring. If you are on a budget, just get some cast pistons...an L28 gasket set. If you have the facilities, play attention to the balancing of your rotating mass, including flywheel, clutch and front damper. You here of people building a stroker, but it won't rev, usually due to the parts not being balanced....but you probably know all this.... As for pistons, I know Rebello will sell you some, I got some cast ones from them when I started to build my own stroker. Good luck Ian

Hi geezer, Would you mind keeping up posted how you get on cleaning etc yourself? I myself would find it interesting.

Geezer, I got my calender clock checked over and refurbished by Ron at Z clocks. Very good. There is a bit on here about it....can't search now..

g9mc3, Coming late here, and I pleased you got the pin out. I have stripped a few sets of flat tops (as I am a fan) and to see how they can be stripped and how they work. The float pin on a pair of my flat tops came out just by pulling out, but another set I had to drill the blank side to expose the other end of the pin, then push it out. This was just for experiment, and if I was going to use it again, I would have just added a lead plug, which you find on these carbs, which are used to plug up the fuel galleries when the carb is drilled during manufacture. Are planning to take the carbs more apart, as I maybe able to help? There are one or two other things you may want to consider checking (or you have already) If you don't have the Nissan service manual that covers these, get it (and/or Nissan US service instructions for dealers), its a huge help (I am pretty sure this is where geezer got the pictures he put up from) Regards Ian

Julio, Unless you plan to replace the rear bearings, just cut the drum backing plate off. At a guess you are going to put on the maxima brackets (another reason to pull the hub off). I just cut the maxima bracket (see pic.) so fitting the bracket is easy and no pulling required. The Modern Motorsport brackets for their set-up don't have a "complete circle" around the hub, and with longer bolts (I found the brum back plate bolts too short) it will stay there.

Not quite a garage, but, near enough..

All I have seen for years is boat anchor this, boat anchor that, regarding flat top carbs. Fed up with it. I am another fan of flat tops. I see a lot threads on specific items on the early 240z and how people look to have these. Fair enough...you want to keep the car "stock/factory". Why not these carbs, which are a larger stock item than some metal emblem (not knocking these)? They are part of the heritage of the S30. And I thought this site was all about that? Sure, they take a bit more set up, but you are only metering two components, fuel and air (and a little bit of vaccum). A problem with worn round tops also occurs on the flat tops, worn throttle spindles. Once you understand how the flat top works, you understand correct set up, and how they work, there is no reason why they should not work. Some cars in Japan are still running '73 flat tops and have no problem, and they don't have a different carb. Stick round top carbs on if you want an easy life, but please consider the boat anchor comments for flat top carbs from the un-informed.

I brought a new one of these about 8 months ago from my local Nissan dealer, so hopefully they are not NLA in that short time since.

My understanding is the gasket between the fender and headlight cowl is used only as a spacer to help the panels line up. Since most cars from the factory were fine, they were used infrequently, thus difficult to find on a car now.

Anre, I got a copy of this book....a great source of info if planning to use flat top carbs, but there is only a few doing so/plan too go with flat tops.

red-dog, Speak to Dave Rebello about shipping your engine if you want to use his services. I shipped my cylinder head/crank and other parts to him using his contacts, and he sent my engine back. Very good price....oh and I am in England....I can't remember the cost of the engine shipping, but the cylinder head and crank cost about $60 to ship via air. Ian

No problem. I saw they were out of stock, but since this website is fairly new, I thought they would have a supply channel, rather than an odd set lying about.

How about here....? http://www.zccjdm.com/catalog.php/azcarbum/dt46936/KAMEARI_-DATSUN_JDM_G-NOSE_

Will, I take my hat off to you on this. I know whats involved when I had to make a Z grommet up that I could not get new. Its quite satisfying work though. Cheers Ian

The perspex/metal trim of an OEM headlight cover sits on top of the headlight panel scoop. The MSA headlight cover butts against the inside edge of the scoop. So, therefore the MSA perspex would not fit with a OEM metal trim. Plus, the shape of the perspex of an OEM and a MSA one are different. The OEM headlight seems to be a bit more bulbus towards the front corner of the cover. I am the chap who brought the OEM covers from the ebay link at the top of this thread. And with the exchange rate, it worked out as a good price. Also, I will have to check, but I have already a pair of OEM covers, and in my memory I seem to remember both chrome and polished stainless metal trim. Both these came from a reliable source, and are OEM ones. I will get back on this point. Cheers Ian

What Xray said gives you a basic stroker set up. You can use the the other L28 block as well. But depending on what you want and how much cash you have, you can have a range of stroke and bore combinations/ non OEM rods and pistons to accomodate and some in depth machine work. But what ever you decide, do as much homework on this as you can. There is plenty of info out there.

LD28 has the same number of bolt holes as any other L24/L26/L28 crank.

Hi Sulio, Yes Des's book is an excellent starting point. I "base" tuned mine for my 3.1, using Des's book as a guide, but when Rebello set them up with the engine they built for me, some of the jets were well out. I had to change the chokes too. Expensive the jets. Do you have a place in Oz where you can get Dellorto jets and spares from? Stick with them, as once you have paid for the jets/rolling road time, they don't need much looking after, just maintence stuff . If you are running a higher lift cam, this may mean you have to go up a jet size or two to accomadate the extra fuel being sucked in. Anyway, I would be interested to hear how you get on. Cheers Ian

Mr.Woof, Nice. But just wondering, does your air filters have the trumpets (air horns) inside? I does look like there is not much room there to have any, or if they are there, they are rather short height ones if you include the clearence also. See Toecutters pic. which is a current thread at the moment if you don't know what I mean by trumpets. Cheers Ian

Toecutter, I don't know if you brought them new or refurbished them yourself, but did you look to see if the jets are anywhere near the sizes required for your engine spec.? (Probably you know this already, but some people think its a case of just bolting them on and expect miracles). If you refreshed them, you have done a great job. Are they 40's or 45mm ones? Don't look like 48mm. Have fun tuning them, I did not look forward to doing mine, but I got Rebello Racing to build my engine, and they tuned my carbs to suit.

EScanlon, No problem. I forgot about looking in the microfiche. Said clips were also on my 1978 RS30. I will check my late S30 JDM microfiche and see if they appear there too. Cheers Ian

Sorry for digging up an old post, but I was replying to a post on Zcar.com and searching here to add weight my relpy, and come accross this thread. I thougth I might as well finish this thread with the info required. EScanlon asked for a picture of said clips, well find attached. 5 clips per side for a 2 seater, and 6 or 7 (can't remember which) for a 2 by 2. These seem to be NLA, and the last few I brought cost me over £6 ($12) each!! (I live in England) If anyone has any luck finding some new ones, I do need some more to make a set for my car. Regards Ian