RIP260Z

Hi Kats, Thank you for the information. All useful, I am trying to write a more correct historical (conception/design/launch) website page for the CSP311. Old Goertz dribble does not help things. Anything else you come across while speaking to anyone connected would be great. Cheers Ian

Hi Kats, I did find out Yoshida did the interior of the Silvia. I have found another name linked to the Silvia project, Ogura Hisateru, but I can't find what his role was. Would it be possible to ask Yoshida what role Ogura did (if any)? Or does anybody know? Regards Ian

Hi Carl, I was trying to hold back from saying anything, as to take away from an interesting S30 thread.... I would (as you know) take what Goertz says with a bucket load of salt. Translated (professionally) from Japanese Nostalgic Hero magazine (Nov.1995 Vol. 51). "Rumours have appeared that it was Goertz who designed the Silvia, Nissan A550X". The article this is taken from, was written with "special thanks to Kimura Kazuo" as an effort at putting the record straight for the Silvia (CSP311) design. It would appear Kimura had as much, if not more input on this (A550X) project as Goertz, especially when you include looking at his actual time in Japan (Goertz), let alone at say, at Yamaha. If you look at the timeline(s), Goertz contract with Nissan was from May 1963, for one year, thus ending May 1964. The A550X project was started just before the CSP311 project, probably the first few months on 1963, then halted (in May) to concentrate on the CSP311 prototype. The A550X was restarted in the spring of 1964. Either Goertz worked outside his contract until the Nissan/Yamaha partnership ended in September 1964 (unlikely), or gave some input, or just happened to have everything done within limited time visits before the end of his contract (one visit?)? Most likely just some input....?

The chassis numbers are engraved for the 240z's as shown here, but what about the later models of S30/S31? Even though mine can't really be made out now, before it was painted, the chassis numbers looked distinctly "stamped". The "font" is all uniform, with the likes of the zeros being just like the zeros typed here, rather than the "egg shaped" ones in the pictures above. The "font" looks very much like the stamping on the chassis plate. Someone got a picture of a much later S30 of the chassis number? Surely somewhere down the line, stamping would have been quicker on the production line? Just adding to the mix, Regards Ian

Well, while reading this thread when it was written, I kept what Alan had said above in my mind. Found a pair new that were for sale on Yahoo Japan and I thought some people would like to have a look it illustrate what Alan was talking about. Cast lettering easily seen on the front of the wheel. Regards Ian

Thank you Alan

Hi again Alan, Been thinking while doing some work, do you have any other photos of this works rally car when Kevin aquired it, pre-restoration (apart from the one in the article when found, above), you would mind sharing with us? This may go in some small way to show the work/dedication Kevin put into this to get to the finished article. Cheers Ian

Hi Alan, I do love the historical side of the works S30's, and thanks for adding a bit more than just the article (the photos above). I got a copy of the magazine, but as usual I wanted to know more, and felt the article could have had more in-depth detail. But considering the magazine is usually home to European marques, it was a good starting point. Cheers Ian

Good to see actual photos of the process. Did you consider using a torque plate for the boring?

Ooh, you are too kind sir!! Too many S30's in the UK have been modified (not a bad thing) but unless a few owners adhere to the original look, a little bit of the cars authenticity is lost. We see threads on here which are a great read about having the correct metal badges for example. I don't see why the flat tops should be any different. They are part of the S30. Jerz, the 260z should be on the road in a couple of months if things go to plan, so some point in the summer I will come and see you.

See post 7 for HS30-H take on the UK front indicators. Nissan UK show car has them on the wrong way. Its also missing the front bumper overrider blanking grommets which are available if you know where to look. I will have to check to see if the maroon car is still around...seen something somewhere...

Hi Jerz, You know who I am, as we have discussed the originality of the UK late spec 260z which I think is RS30-Q. From my understanding...the front indicators were a late addition to the S30 coming to the UK in 1970. It seems that the under the bumper indicators/side lights were too low on the car for the UK authorities. So I presume these were quickly made to suit..I have not seen them on any other Datsun. Just for info, the purple 260z in the publicity photos still exists. Regards Ian

FairladyZS30, There is plenty of info on doing strokers here, and on Hybridz. I would do some homework, I did when I went down this route. But to get the ball rolling, I would use your L24 rods (the 9mm ones are best, though people have used the 8mm ones), if you can, make a torque plate for your reboring. If you are on a budget, just get some cast pistons...an L28 gasket set. If you have the facilities, play attention to the balancing of your rotating mass, including flywheel, clutch and front damper. You here of people building a stroker, but it won't rev, usually due to the parts not being balanced....but you probably know all this.... As for pistons, I know Rebello will sell you some, I got some cast ones from them when I started to build my own stroker. Good luck Ian

Hi geezer, Would you mind keeping up posted how you get on cleaning etc yourself? I myself would find it interesting.

Geezer, I got my calender clock checked over and refurbished by Ron at Z clocks. Very good. There is a bit on here about it....can't search now..

g9mc3, Coming late here, and I pleased you got the pin out. I have stripped a few sets of flat tops (as I am a fan) and to see how they can be stripped and how they work. The float pin on a pair of my flat tops came out just by pulling out, but another set I had to drill the blank side to expose the other end of the pin, then push it out. This was just for experiment, and if I was going to use it again, I would have just added a lead plug, which you find on these carbs, which are used to plug up the fuel galleries when the carb is drilled during manufacture. Are planning to take the carbs more apart, as I maybe able to help? There are one or two other things you may want to consider checking (or you have already) If you don't have the Nissan service manual that covers these, get it (and/or Nissan US service instructions for dealers), its a huge help (I am pretty sure this is where geezer got the pictures he put up from) Regards Ian

Julio, Unless you plan to replace the rear bearings, just cut the drum backing plate off. At a guess you are going to put on the maxima brackets (another reason to pull the hub off). I just cut the maxima bracket (see pic.) so fitting the bracket is easy and no pulling required. The Modern Motorsport brackets for their set-up don't have a "complete circle" around the hub, and with longer bolts (I found the brum back plate bolts too short) it will stay there.

Not quite a garage, but, near enough..

All I have seen for years is boat anchor this, boat anchor that, regarding flat top carbs. Fed up with it. I am another fan of flat tops. I see a lot threads on specific items on the early 240z and how people look to have these. Fair enough...you want to keep the car "stock/factory". Why not these carbs, which are a larger stock item than some metal emblem (not knocking these)? They are part of the heritage of the S30. And I thought this site was all about that? Sure, they take a bit more set up, but you are only metering two components, fuel and air (and a little bit of vaccum). A problem with worn round tops also occurs on the flat tops, worn throttle spindles. Once you understand how the flat top works, you understand correct set up, and how they work, there is no reason why they should not work. Some cars in Japan are still running '73 flat tops and have no problem, and they don't have a different carb. Stick round top carbs on if you want an easy life, but please consider the boat anchor comments for flat top carbs from the un-informed.

I brought a new one of these about 8 months ago from my local Nissan dealer, so hopefully they are not NLA in that short time since.

My understanding is the gasket between the fender and headlight cowl is used only as a spacer to help the panels line up. Since most cars from the factory were fine, they were used infrequently, thus difficult to find on a car now.

Anre, I got a copy of this book....a great source of info if planning to use flat top carbs, but there is only a few doing so/plan too go with flat tops.

red-dog, Speak to Dave Rebello about shipping your engine if you want to use his services. I shipped my cylinder head/crank and other parts to him using his contacts, and he sent my engine back. Very good price....oh and I am in England....I can't remember the cost of the engine shipping, but the cylinder head and crank cost about $60 to ship via air. Ian

No problem. I saw they were out of stock, but since this website is fairly new, I thought they would have a supply channel, rather than an odd set lying about.

How about here....? http://www.zccjdm.com/catalog.php/azcarbum/dt46936/KAMEARI_-DATSUN_JDM_G-NOSE_