RIP260Z

HS30-H and Abas, Yes this pic came from a thread on the uk Zwebsite. I emailed the starter of the thread 2-3 months after the thread started, just to see what was happening, heres the reply "Hi Ian, Sorry for the delay in replying,just got back from holiday,As far as I am aware the guy was not intending to sell and was moving it to a friend,s garage to restore.I spoke to the owner personally,a pleasant chap, but got the feeling the car would never go for restoring. Funnily enough I passed by just before I went away on holiday and the car hadn,t moved.He did want to meet with me though but as yet I haven,t spoke to him since. Thanks Jim." As for motorsport history, hillclimbing (to what level?) was mentioned on the thread, but I get the feeling there could be a bit more. Eric Neyerlin replied to the thread, which is http://www.zclub.net/forum/showthread.php?t=2000&page=1&pp=15 and yes, it has a sunroof. Ian

If I remember rightly from my service manual, there is a "hole" on the special tool so you can attach a 1/2 inch torque wrench. The spec is up to 94lbs, but there was an equation where the length of the torque wrench was taken into consideration, so you got the required setting. Can't remembr what that is, but can look it up when I get home, or someone can look it up before I get back on here tomorrow. Ian

I just took my strut down to my local machine shop, they had a spanner to fit the gland nut size (55mm) and broke them loose for nothing. No chewed up nut.

I agree with building a replica, esp. if it still exists. To see (and hear) Big Sam doing what it was meant to do....hmmmm. You could get hold of an original Samuri 240, which were prepared by the same people who built Big Sam. Though these are rather rare now, attached is one that was found with motorsport history, been sitting 12 years, I think it a real shame just sitting there rotting away....

There are some people say not to remove them, but e.g. in Frank Horowitz (spelling?) How to build your Nissan/Datsun L series engine it tells you how to. I think there would be a lot of scrap heads if you could not fit cam towers/head saver shims. In Franks book he does mention that Nissan recommends a certain small amount (can't remember the figure) can only be taken off the height of a head, but in practice, there will be quiet a few with Zeds have had more skimmed from our heads than what Nissan recommends and are using cam towers shims. In doing so have removed the cam towers.

Gav240, Sorry for the late reply, but my only access to the internet is at work. If you still require the info. I brought them is July '04, shock boot from MSA (PART NO. 23-4090) front and rear, I paid $39.83 each. The part no. for the clip, just for the heck of it is 54057-N3700, even though on a previous threads they are no longer avail. and your going for cable ties. As for bump stops try www.suspension.com, they are $8 each, rather than the $19.95 each from VB or MSA. I hope I have helped in some small way. Ian

Jason, My standard cam was internally oiled, but the performance cam I got required external oiling. I removed a set of cam towers from a external oiled engine and swapped the cam towers over on my head. Punch mark them before removing, so you know what went where. I would clean the threads out on the head if you are going to do this, as it does not take much to mess up the thread. Just follow the instructions in a manual, with regards to installing the cam and tightening the cam tower bolts down. I don't know if there is a way modifying the internal oiling cam towers, is there? My internal oiling cam towers did not have any holes to attach a spray bar to, let alone a oil passage. You could see on the casting where they would go. Cheers Ian

Gav240z, I got mine under a year ago from MSA, genuine Nissan ones, I can't remember the price or the part number. I can look if you want? Just for your info, the rubber boot slips on the rim of the top spring plate, and on the bottom there is a metal clip that holds the boot to the strut. I would think you would need this clip too. Cheers Ian

These numbers are the second part of the Nissan part number. I have the LD28 crank which has V07 and I used this against the listed part no. in my Motorsports catalogue to make sure I got the right part. Though on my one, the ***40 part was different. Having V07 is how you make sure you have a LD28 crank. The crank part number on Carfiche.com for a ZX is P3000, it differs slightly from what Phred has, but he knows where his came from. I think its the same as having a N42 head or a E36 intake manifold, these are the first 3 characters of the second part of a part number. I hope that makes sense. Ian

Mr Camouflage and others, You mentioned the front indicators, but somewhere along the lines when the car was rebuilt for Nissan UK, were put on wrong. The front indicators should be on the top of the bumper, not below. See attachment. Cheers Ian

The books I have read (e.g. Wick Humbles How to restore your Datsun Z) say put the window door frame in first, then the glass. I tried this (260 '78) and the parts that go into the guides (inside the door) for the window would not go into the top of the door. I was starting to chip the paint, so I took the window frame out and put the glass in first. With the frame out, you can use the wider parts on the tops of the doors (which were bit obsured by the frame. Once the glass is in, put in the frame (when the glass is sitting inside the door). I am not saying Wicks way was wrong, just the way I found was sooo much easier.

Texasz, I am using wiring loom tape, it has no sticky side to it, when you are wrapping it around, just keep it taut. I unwound my old tape rather than wrapping over the top. Just unwrap some old tape to a good point (like when wires go off the main loom) wrap new stuff on and working my way down the loom. Also cleaning my connectors too, just covered in crud. Scrapping the biggest of it off then using some solvent. Over here, you can buy antiseptic wipes (general use) in a plastic container (the wipes pull out the top). I poured the excess water out and poured some solvent in instead. Now I have solvent wipes, very handy indeed. Cheers Ian

Texasz, A small detail I know, but what about recovering the wiring loom with fresh wiring loom tape? I am doing mine at the moment (bare metal respray inc. engine bay) as the engine is out, my wiring loom is dirty, overspray, underseal, and looks bad against fresh paint. I don't know whats yours is like. Just a thought. Ian

It does help, thank you. RIP260Z

Hi, I am putting new weatherstrips purchased from MSA for my recently painted 1978 260Z. They have been going on fine, but I just want to confirm how the weatherstrips go on the hatch (tailgate) apperature. My Wick Humble book just could not confirm. The inner is on, and there is a top outer and two sides. Both seals are roughly "L" shaped with a slot in the upright to fix to the lip of the apperture. Now, does the flat part of the L go in the bodywork channel, or does it float in the apperature space. I think it is glued in the channel, but I just wanted to ask (maybe stupidly).I did not want to have to try and remove it and glue it in properly. Thanks

Larry 73Z, I too have looked for an diagram of the dimensions for the wedge. The best I have found is http://www.datsunworld.com/ (in the tech tips page) but I can't quite figure all the numbers, so its exact. But I am sure its a starting point. Ian

Zsaint, Have you considered looking at Rebello Racing (#925-682-0103)? They have a good reputation for building L6 engine, as well as others. They can give you some options and supply you what you need. I am over here in England and thats where I sourced my pistons/cam. And mine are cast rather than forged. Cheers Ian

Zs-ondabrain and all, I have rebuilt my triple 48s Dellortos using this firm www.racecar.co.uk/dellorto/. I know that they are in the Uk, but they do ship worldwide. I had no problem getting the bits I needed. As for set up get hold of "How to power tune your Weber and Dellortos " by Des Hamill, a great book, and this will give you all the info you need to know about setup (which will differ from the 2.4 and 2.8). I think 40s and 45s are still available new. I hope that helps Ian

Texasz, An interesting question. I am not an expert, but I have gained a bit of knowledge from looking for carbs for my 3.1 I am building. I have went for Dellortos 48mm, as they were available at the time. I don't think there is a "best" carb for a 3.1, I think its down to experience/preference of the carb guru. I think Rebello favour Mikuni for example. It all boils down to the jetting of each carb. The jets go in increments (say for more or less fuel at a particular point) and it depends on the increments. Dellortos have more increments over some areas than Webers, so it makes the fine setting of the carbs easier. But the big point is the size of carb for the engine, a set of 40's on a 3.1 is not ideal as the carbs are not quite big enough. With a 3.1 you can run either a 45mm or 48mm. In How to modify your Datsun/Nissan engine, in the carbs section, there is a formula to work out what would be an ideal carb and choke size. Though these overlap, hence why 45 or 48mm are fine. I think any of the carbs you have mentioned are fine, with little or any diffences, as long as the carb is setup well, thats the main point. I hope I have answered your question. RIP260Z

As far as I am aware, the vent emblems were marked left and right so that they were put on right. The reason, if on correctly, the side of the emblem that faces the front of the car is solid. The side that faces to the rear has a indent. Therefore, my understanding is that when the car is moving forward, air can be "sucked" out as the air travels over the emblem and over the rear. If the emblem was on the wrong side, the indent pointing to the front, the air would be "pushed" into the vent through the indent when the car went forward. Thus less ventilation. Cheers Ian

I would like a pair too. I was wanting a pair of originals, but when I came to buy them they were getting silly money. So I have a pair from MSA to go on for now. I wanted the chrome look as it would look good on my dark paintwork. Around the $200 I would happily pay and the shipping to me in England RIP260Z

Hi SteveK, I am considering using Wilcox to tune my engine setup when I have rebuilt it (its going to the machine shop tomorrow)....I take it you would recommend them? And this is my first post......off and running Cheers Ian