RIP260Z

Will, I take my hat off to you on this. I know whats involved when I had to make a Z grommet up that I could not get new. Its quite satisfying work though. Cheers Ian

The perspex/metal trim of an OEM headlight cover sits on top of the headlight panel scoop. The MSA headlight cover butts against the inside edge of the scoop. So, therefore the MSA perspex would not fit with a OEM metal trim. Plus, the shape of the perspex of an OEM and a MSA one are different. The OEM headlight seems to be a bit more bulbus towards the front corner of the cover. I am the chap who brought the OEM covers from the ebay link at the top of this thread. And with the exchange rate, it worked out as a good price. Also, I will have to check, but I have already a pair of OEM covers, and in my memory I seem to remember both chrome and polished stainless metal trim. Both these came from a reliable source, and are OEM ones. I will get back on this point. Cheers Ian

What Xray said gives you a basic stroker set up. You can use the the other L28 block as well. But depending on what you want and how much cash you have, you can have a range of stroke and bore combinations/ non OEM rods and pistons to accomodate and some in depth machine work. But what ever you decide, do as much homework on this as you can. There is plenty of info out there.

LD28 has the same number of bolt holes as any other L24/L26/L28 crank.

Hi Sulio, Yes Des's book is an excellent starting point. I "base" tuned mine for my 3.1, using Des's book as a guide, but when Rebello set them up with the engine they built for me, some of the jets were well out. I had to change the chokes too. Expensive the jets. Do you have a place in Oz where you can get Dellorto jets and spares from? Stick with them, as once you have paid for the jets/rolling road time, they don't need much looking after, just maintence stuff . If you are running a higher lift cam, this may mean you have to go up a jet size or two to accomadate the extra fuel being sucked in. Anyway, I would be interested to hear how you get on. Cheers Ian

Mr.Woof, Nice. But just wondering, does your air filters have the trumpets (air horns) inside? I does look like there is not much room there to have any, or if they are there, they are rather short height ones if you include the clearence also. See Toecutters pic. which is a current thread at the moment if you don't know what I mean by trumpets. Cheers Ian

Toecutter, I don't know if you brought them new or refurbished them yourself, but did you look to see if the jets are anywhere near the sizes required for your engine spec.? (Probably you know this already, but some people think its a case of just bolting them on and expect miracles). If you refreshed them, you have done a great job. Are they 40's or 45mm ones? Don't look like 48mm. Have fun tuning them, I did not look forward to doing mine, but I got Rebello Racing to build my engine, and they tuned my carbs to suit.

EScanlon, No problem. I forgot about looking in the microfiche. Said clips were also on my 1978 RS30. I will check my late S30 JDM microfiche and see if they appear there too. Cheers Ian

Sorry for digging up an old post, but I was replying to a post on Zcar.com and searching here to add weight my relpy, and come accross this thread. I thougth I might as well finish this thread with the info required. EScanlon asked for a picture of said clips, well find attached. 5 clips per side for a 2 seater, and 6 or 7 (can't remember which) for a 2 by 2. These seem to be NLA, and the last few I brought cost me over £6 ($12) each!! (I live in England) If anyone has any luck finding some new ones, I do need some more to make a set for my car. Regards Ian

Nota280, Ron gave my clock a visual score of 5 out of 10. Ron charges between $100-$150 dependent on condition and what needs going. Mine was a little bit worse, so mine cost $175 for the repair. Shipping extra. Hope that helps Ian

Hi All, I purchased a calender clock from WingZr0, and as you see in the pictures it did not look great and was not working. The clock was sent to Ron at Zclocks, who gave a look, said what needed/going to be done and the other photos are the end result. Very pleased by Rons work and his help/keeping me posted on whats going on. Also thanks to WingZr0. Enjoy. Cheers Ian

Just for info, the perspex glass of the OEM ones, and the MSA type ones, are completely a different shape. The OEM ones are much more bulbus and curved towards the front of the headlight pod (where the top and side plane of perspex meet). The MSA type one is a lot more angular in this area. I think this helps the look of the car with the OEM ones on in my opinion.

Have you tried getting hold of the OEM part numbers and trying the Nissan dealer (who will probably laugh at you)? I know the ones you mean, I have only seen them on stock cars that have not been played around with..most get lost. I think your best chance is finding some good second hand ones....just keep your eye out. Good luck on the search. Ian

Hi Kats, Absolutely love your PS30. Have your website on my favourites list. As with alot of people on this forum, they would love to have a PS30. But what about JDM owners in Japan, is there a export S30 model they would like to have? E.g.the JDM did not get the American market 280z with its fuel injection, or the 260z (they did but they were recalled very quickly) to give a couple of examples. I am not asking to know whether a particular S30 model is better or worse that another, but if there was a export model (if any) that the S30 owners in Japan think reached a good mix of characteristics and/or pinncale of development? Alan and yourself have been talking on this thread about how different models handle, rev, sound, ride, and from that some sound as different as chalk and cheese. I hope I have explained well enough what I am trying to answer. Regards Ian

The 280zx nuts for the rear hub/bearings are not peened and are the same as the 240/260/280z. So make fitting easier (as don't have to peen them), as well as making removal easier if need be at a later date. A slight point also, is the 280zx nut is slightly bigger in terms of surface area against the washer, so may help spread the tightening torque better. (I don't have a part no. for the 280zx nuts handy, sorry). When I replaced my rear bearings, I let my local machine shop deal with all of this. Let them have the hassle. Hpe that helps Ian

Thank you. So can it be deduced that the RS30 was dropped by Nissan Aus. in 1977 due to poor sales against the GRS30, or was there another reason? Basiclly there is no compliance plated (imported?) 1978 model year RS30's (and GRS30's) only a few registered ones? It has not helped that I have muddied the water by not using compliance plates in my question, as this would have made things easier. In the UK we don't have compliance plates, only registration plates. Sorry I have banged on about this subject, I am just trying to see why Australia stopped importing/compliance plating RS30's while the UK carried on importing RS30's maybe up to six months longer. Cheers Ian

Thanks for that Mr Camouflage, So, if Australia only got 1977 models, why were you not getting 1978 produced RS30's? The UK was getting early to mid 1978 produced RS30's (so the last registered cars were in late 1978 and early 1979), had Australia already started to gear up to the replacement model (S130) that early (surely not)? As for the UK getting the left over 2 by 2 (GRS30), I have not heard that. As far as I am aware the UK carried on getting the 2 by 2 in tandem with the RS30, as I have seen 1978 reg plates. Cheers Ian

Hi, Of the RS30's I have seen here and on Ebay Australia, there does not seem to be any 1978 registered cars. All I see is upto and including 1977. As here in England we were still getting cars that were registered in 1978/1979. Was it the fact that Australia registered all the RS30's that it imported by that time (1977), or that no cars were imported during the early part of 1978? I think that some of our later UK registed RS30's just sat at dealers waiting to be sold. I think this was true for my 1980 registered RS30, as it was a colour nobody wanted. What about the New Zealand registered RS30's, were they being registered in 1978, or did that end in 1977? I could be making something from nothing here or not being observant enough, but.... Cheers Ian

Hi Toecutter, This Samuri conversion 240z has been talked about on our UK zclub site. As on the practical classic cars website, the owner is not wanting to sell and, speaking to someone else, he "intends to restore".....but its just rotting away. Even if it was saved, its going to need some serious work I have added another pic of said car, that I got sitting on my computer, and its from 2005... Cheers Ian

Ramses, I presume you have probably thought of this already, but since you are having the suspension apart, are going to replace the wheel bearings, especially the rears? Just a thought... Cheers Ian

Hello Johan, From what I gather from your post, you are new to Dellortos. If you intend to use these carbs, I would consider a book by Des Hamill, called "How to power tune and rebuild your Weber and Dellortos". This has easy to follow advice. Its not just a case of changing "needles". They don't have needles, but jets, air emulsion tubes, idle jets, air correction jets, etc, which all can be changed for various sizes. What size jets depends on your engine, stock/modified. It takes time to set these carbs up right, I would do some reading first. Thats what I did. Fuel pressure for these carbs is about 3 and a 1/2 lbs. You will find your electric fuel pump will give far too much fuel than whats required, so you need to fit a fuel prssure regulator (after the pump). If your engine is standard, the standard machanical fuel pump will work just fine in terms of pressure and flow. Also if your engine is standard, fitting a set of triples, there will be no increase in horsepower but there will be an increase of fuel comsumption. But in return there is nothing like the sound of a set of triples working! Good luck Ian

Alan, remember to look in the loft too!!! Cheers Ian

I think the difference in lift is small and this equates to no more horses. If you do swap the early cam, these are externally oiled, you will need to use a set of cam towers which have provision for a spray bar, whilst the cam on the P90 are internally oiled. Ian

Hi Gregg, I you have not got already, a CD rom of the car microfiche of parts thats sold in the States. At least if you need to order something you at least have a starting point. I have one, but I use it as a guide to my RHD zeds. Alot of parts were used on both, while some are most definately handed and model specific. If Belgium is anything like the UK, the Nissan dealerships are poor in support/ knowledge. I would be prepared to use the US suppliers (e.g.MSA) or you could use MJP Eastern Auto (google it). He is helpful and more than likely can help you getting bits for your 280z. Worth a shot..... Good luck Ian

Hi Carl, I am planning to stick with flat tops on my long term restro project, and I am always on the look out for tips and parts for these carbs. Do you have details on the parts (nos) and the proceedures that Nissan implemented to overcome evaporation? I know from a old post Tony D posted, that a fuel passageway was drilled out slightly larger. If so which one and was there anything else? Thanks Ian