RIP260Z

Just spotted these on Ebay.com....flat top power valves https://www.ebay.com/itm/334629795756?hash=item4de97d77ac:g:VjoAAOSwj4BjdIky&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4FVCSz9%2FvNlhfOv7Yy53IbMusp5GFkUZu95KUSsN1h53lDrpB38mIoJqEyEINkh%2FVBiiEwKVROPbfa0s4sxccyxfMUfYCvbkLG8I85wDEW9aI36c6enorqKx1AHw9EI%2FbelNZIzoEscLAu%2Bq3LRAZoQE9YoPqFJw%2BQQULM1TpnVJBp%2B0%2B8Wnk%2B11ML1qqHLQALOf6qrnLhNzbnFIRFJvsdi2XZ1hsN7DZz3KsjhH7ZLVPhZePCbUSLAe1FzFPCwNqS9Ae03jBRdAL1s5Vmem3ZhEdENqLdAM7KNaf7f2AhY7|tkp%3ABFBMopu03ZBh and https://www.ebay.com/itm/334629220773?hash=item4de974b1a5:g:tTwAAOSwZdVjc9V3&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4BlJ6I1NH9x6hbbgb5112TEK0mohoTheifko6pM1Wpl8NIjJjgQKb4kUluyApb2rf4LmPjr4bs7J6WqycrFllzVrXpVdwVDLgwgHaQiOHas0bLeKZwrsxK7%2BpZkYiDr9lstDNxBHtXfnglrolNGB9teRgd4FferFcb%2B%2F1nE8DH6cbe4gLWxWHYrVqWsSonEawFjW6J2HK4tpYNJm%2BETPASV1MOsH1m2ZExRixznGiW2fYbpP1%2BqYoSCXA4zup5V%2Bpg7rlbQOczgL3rqQTObIpqUxfVpT0o10R18eHTIm5Onj|tkp%3ABFBMxreG3ZBh

Off the top of my head, I seem to remember not seeing anything, but the needles are kept with the stripped down carbs. Will be a while until I get a chance to look, now in France for work....

Thanks Captain Obvious, always good to have others input. With regards fuel bowl volumes, I have only looked at the flat tops HMB46W, so I bow to your knowledge with this comparing to the HJG46's. Though my understanding is fuel vapour /insufficient fuel was a problem (for the HMB46W's), so I was thinking if this was larger than it is, this would have more fuel in the tank so to speak, and maybe help a little with cooling, as there is more volume. But as I said, it was an idea that I never looked at fully to whether it was worth moving forward with. Having the fuel bowl below the base of the carb doesn't seem the best idea above a hot exhaust manifold. Nissan thought that moving from the HJG36's (the other flat tops) with the side fuel bowls like the HJG46's to the HMB46W was the way forward. Both pairs of HMB46W's had nozzle wear due to the needle rubbing that I stripped (one partially). If Nissan US had this mentioned in the 1974 (?) published modification booklet, I presume it was already noticed on the cars that were in for remedial work with only a low number of years under their belt...?

Here is a prime example of something different that comes up on Yahoo that some would like on their Nissan, that is likely not to have been sold outside of Japan?; https://www.jauce.com/auction/p1068525429

Thanks Alan, So, slightly off topic, but connected, the "flat top carb" HJG38W in your JDM scan also has the suffix, -3A in the top, with -8 and -9 (A/T), which would help support the theory of slight changes due to models/engines, where the HJG36W I have is -11. Certainly confirms different needles in the JDM Fairlady 2.4L and the European L26 (which would be the case). I take it the top box is the earlier model, the 48 year (in kanji) is later models? So, a needle change from N-54 to N-66. Therefore do Nissan's needle series go by letter, M the N...?

Sorry for the later reply, busy season with work. I intended to restore an RS30Q, and had the car, but the CSP took its place, and the RS30Q was sold, so I never got to try I found/modfiy/stock set up. It's been a while since I was in Flat top carb world. A quick look/thought. On my parts microfiche, there is only two needles listed, 16354-N3500, N-86A and 16354-N3310 and listed as applied model is L26 Australia. Mentioned above is HMB46W -1 to -10, looking in the 240z/260z fuel system modifications plus booklet, mentions on page 18 "note: HMB46W-5 and -9 carburetors have the improved choke valves (no stamped number)." On the previous page (17) is mentions F1 and R1 as the second type, the third type F2 and R2, where Fand R are front and rear carbs. This corresponds to choke part numbers, 1st type, no part number (and that page is missing from my microfiche), second type 16188-N3300 and third is 16188-N3310. The power valves also correspond to F/R1 and F/R2, (16059-N3314 and 16059-N3313 respectively, with the later having a green blob of paint on the valve, which I have seen. So, what I am trying to say, point to, is I think the -1 to-10 covers small modifications/tweeks, with the HMB46W's as there production progressed. It also on what model the carb was on. I am unsure if any JDM market had the HMB46W fitted (HS30-H?), apart from their recalled Fairlady Z with the 2.6L fitted. It could like the Hitachi HJG38-11, NOS I have, this having an -11 suffix. This carb was I think, ran as singles or twins on various models, the P510, Fairlady Z, B110, N10 Cherry, all these models. I very much doubt ran exactly the same carb, cc would mean that needle valve would differ. The fuel inlet pipe on the NOS one I have differs in orientation than others I have seen, does this warrant a -* number change? The HJ38 has its number etched on the side of the fuel bowl. Which brings me back to needles...I haven't seen anything with 1A to 1C (probably as the 1st page of my copied microfiche is missing), but I think it is lining up with changes to other modifications/tweeks to the carbs. I did send a needle off to be matched with an SU Burlen one, and it was pretty close. I completely stripped a pair of HMB46's years ago to try to get a better understanding of these "boat anchors" work. People can run these carbs successfully, and some can. It's only fuel air and vaccum...! The key I think is they have to set up just so, and are a little less forgiving than the HJG46W. Some of these set up points are in the fuel modification system. What I found on stripping them if I recall is the nozzle kit (16496-N3311) is very easily worn, where the needle cuts a groove/makes the nozzle oval, rather than a centred fit. I found the power valve assembles clogged up with carbon, the valves are made up of 3 or 4 plates, with the centre one has little set brass nozzles set into the aluminium housing. These power valves run off a separate curcuit if I recall, giving an extra shot of fuel at a certain level of throttle, so have to be clean. I think there is a knock on affect if things are just set up just so. The throttle shafts like the HJG46 could do with bearings inserted like Z therapy do. Also, if I remember rightly, the HMB46W's there is only one idle mixture screw that does both carbs, linked to both via hoses. This makes tuning difficult, as there has to a happy medium (or unhappy) to get it to run as best it can. I did come up with a mod that gives you individual adjustment to each carb, which I think would help. Fuel level, very crucial, they eye level glass is a faff to see. The volume of the fuel bowl, which is under the carb is quite small, so getting that fuel float set is crucial,which is linked to fuel pressure. I did think of a large fuel bowl (cut a slice off a spare carb and make it into a spacer) to give you more volume, but I never thought it all the way though and see if it would work. I seem to remember a very small inset fuel filter in the carb body, another thing to keep clean. Also, there are devices on the air filter box that need to be kept in working order too. Right cup of tea time. I hope that helps. Cheers Ian

SteveJ, I agree with 26th-Z, been shipping parts from Japan by using proxy bidding companies for years. By far not a cheap option for those hard/NLA parts you want, but if you want, got to pay. Finding parts in Japan that other parts of the world didn't get, either NOS, or parts offered by loads of aftermarket sellers, again old stock, is totally worth it.

These the ones? https://www.jauce.com/auction/x1060665150

I got some new twin hose clamps for fuel lines from Yahoo Japan, a pack of 10 I think, last year, let me see if I can find a link...

As the subject of tool boxes has been touched on, this is on its way from Japan as we speak... a Nissan tool bag, and the seller put some tools in for free.

I must need my glasses checked, as I see a multitude of similarites with zKars images in post no.8. On further digging, it looks like the HJG38 is for some models in the P510SSS, and the B210 range, though could well just be a needle difference for these two differing cc's as the bodies look the same. According to the Datsun 1200 site, this could be the Nissan Competition set-up, as it is without the advanced idle mixture set-up (IMS) (between the base of the carb dome and the manifold flange it just has a blanking plate, no pipework) and has a banjo fitment bolt for a metal drain tube on the fuel bowl (instead of a barbed fitment for a pipe to go to the air filter housing). It could be that the Nissan Competition (USA) is standard for Europe. I see references to these sometimes being single carbs on some engines, but nothing found to support.... More digging....

Looking at zKars post number 8, I picked up a NOS, what I think is for the 510sss, though I think the same carb was used on the JDM L20 S30Z as well... It looks very much the same, but since this was found in Europe, the set-up is (?) slightly different. I gather this is the rear carb. I would be grateful if someone would confirm and thus there are some nice reference photos. It has HJG38-11 4901H on the side of the fuel bowl.

I harvested images of that Silvia too. What is notible is how the S30 and CSP wood changes colour over the years, the CSP especially is light in colour/shade (in link below) and then becomes darker through sun/heat/sweat/grease.. The CSP, as far as I am aware, only originally came in a light colour of wood, so this could affect what the original tree species was to start with, the same as with the S30..?. https://csp311.net/publicity-and-miscellaneous-media-広報およびその他のメディア/224-2/

No Alan, very much like the wheel in this thread, including the images above. I started restoring mine a while ago, so I know every inch well. The CSP steering wheel has painted black on the inside edge of the 3 slots cut into the satin polished 3 spokes, so points to a finish proceedure after molding as with the '69-73 wheel. Probably the same as the hub of the wheel, painted after. Maybe an idea for a thread covering all those manufacturers who supplied Nissan with parts for the S30Z, the likes of Niles, for example.

Wood. I suspect the plasticy "feel" is where vast majority of the resin ends up during the pressure and heat cycles, on the outer surface (and inner by the photos). I presume Izumi didn't then put a finish, say lacquer, on the steering wheels, and the end finish is the resin? My CSP steering wheel looks very much like the early S30 one, and sands like wood, and for me that is a wooden one. I wonder if Izumi made them too....?

Nice work, I like the window roller kit, though currently out of stock. The tabs I have seen on Yahoo auctions, so maybe where jdm-car-parts gets them. I found 240zrubber parts wouldn't ship outside the US, so had to get them posted inside the US first before coming to me (with other parts)

HI Kats, I can't really answer your question, maybe just add a bit. The CSP went on as a design concept as a 2 by 2, by lengthing it, plus other changes. The CSP and the SP/SR are all based on the typical height of a Japanese person, as its their home market. So, was the sketch looking at how the CSP and SR look like for person room, so they could decide where they wanted to go ergonomics for the following concepts/ideas?

Interesting Kats. I got fairly familiar with kanji when I was looking at period magazine articles for the csp website. I had to look at the kanji (sometimes with a magnifying glass as the print/paper quality in the 1960's wasn't great), work out how many "sub kanji" are in it, as it could be a combination of "sub kanji" all with a differening number of strokes per "sub kanji" . There was a great website (not there now) which listed these "sub kanji" by the number of strokes, and you ticked what you worked out and hopefully end up with the correct kanji in the magazine. E.G (if my memory serves me well) 可 is made of two "sub kanji" the square and the "J" with the top line. Both are written in a particular stroke order. Sorry, there probably is a better/correct way of saying this than "sub kanji", but I was looking on my own, ploughing through 70-80 thousand kanji... before running through Google translate in a curtailed way sometimes. Alan kindly gave me a sticker of this which is proudly on my RS30. About fuel if I remember.. The left image faces out, whilst the right faces into the car as its applied to the glass.

These pair of dashes are on Ebay just now. Most S30 owners won't see this unless there car is apart, but under the steering column section, markings from the factory (carrying on the glovebox and radio markings in the thread) The top one looks like ENG for England, the other...?

Great document. Alan, in my CSP311 development uncovering, Nissan used A###X for their project codes (though the CSP didn't get one), e.g. A250X was an engine development of a SP311 engine and A550X was the still-born Nissan 2000GT. Was this carried on into the early, what would become the S30, which we see from the document as 270KK and changed (what I am asking is did it have an A###X first), or if I remember the CSP and S30 (for example) was designed under a different design studio's within Nissan? Thus, did each design studio/team have it's own code? Cheers Ian

After a long time, mainly due to loads of projects going on all at once (at different stages) my option SP/SP311 (74340-25500) footrest replica is finished. I am pleased. The original footrest option for the 311 would have been a nice addition to the S30 range if Nissan decreed it back in 1969 for production instead of the black painted one.

This was recently talked about on the 311s forum; https://www.311s.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?p=306630&hilit=plasti+dip#p306630

I take it the black and white image is from Nissan's workshop manual, so it could one of the specialized tools that is listed within the manual. There are specialized tools for L series engine and for the S30 body listed in Nissan's workshop manual, but virtually no-one uses these, let alone seen them. That's what I mean by sepcific.

While spending too much time on Yahoo Japan auctions, I spot this; https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/p1036395780 I presume a spanner so you get the right torque setting. Pictures from link.

Hi Kats, It looks like your wait is over; https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/o1035873205 Pictures from link for long term reference In the blue as per Alan's comment of "Factory replacement spare parts came in (manufacturer) Tsuchiya's factory blue colour"