Everything posted by RIP260Z
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S20 air boxes
Hi Kats, It looks like your wait is over; https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/o1035873205 Pictures from link for long term reference In the blue as per Alan's comment of "Factory replacement spare parts came in (manufacturer) Tsuchiya's factory blue colour"
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My two swiss S30Z Fairlady Restoration build thread
Rare would be the East German version??!!
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Parts for Sale: S30 JDM/Option footrest
View Advert S30 JDM/Option footrest OEM JDM/option footrest, NOT one of those reproductions that for me, don't look right. Used, but restored by me. It was rusty, and flaky paint, and the feet were seized. Stripped and filed/sanded and powder coated in gloss black. The rubber/plastic foot grip is a reproduction, made by me, there is info on this in the group buy thread. It’s not perfect, there are rust depressions in the feet from sitting in wet footwells over the years, but it now has a great finish considering its age. Feet un-seized, but a little stiff, need some movement (best done mounted to car floor). Original fixing coach head bolts left in place as they were fine and original rivets. If you are unfamiliar with the footrest, info can be found here; https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/63606-jdmoption-footrest-differences/ Price a little higher than I would like to sell for (like previous ones), as these footrests are getting a little more expensive to get hold of from Japan by the time brought, bidding fees and shipping. Probably the last one I will buy from Japan and restore. $250 inclusive of shipping from UK worldwide, tracked. Drop me a line if interested or want to know more.... Advertiser RIP260Z Date 02/01/2022 Price Category Parts for Sale
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S20 air boxes
Hello Kats, For me, the mid to late 1960's and very early 1970's was the peak of car design in Japan, with great looking models and performance (even those with less performance still looked great). The S30 family is no exception, but I hark more to the rarer/less produced models within the range. Ahh, the late model RS30Q....! Silvia, it's going fine, though slowly. Your statement (I quoted above) can easily fit into it with finding spares for a production run only about 100 more than the Z432. I had been looking for a pair of seats for about 12 years, and finally I brought with a small fortune considering they were for restoration only.
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S20 air boxes
Thanks Alan, very helpful as usual. They are just a lovely design. I will carry on drooling with a little more info....
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S20 air boxes
While drooling at S20 engine pictures during those quiet time "having a look on the web", I notice the S20 air boxes on the Z432 and KGC10 (?) are different. The Z432 (PS30) has the air filter housing in front of the radiator, a longer pipe connecting to the car box (two rubber joiners), and the air enters the carb box at the front. (Z432 image from Kat's thread, page 26) The Skyline fitted with the S20, has the air filter housing behind the radiator and connect directly to the carb box, no pipe connector (1 rubber joiner). The air enters the carb box by a pipe coming in on the side. I presume the obvious difference is red for Z432 and Skyline is blue? I ask as I have an image of a red carb box, but the air pipe into this comes in from the side... was there a change during production of the Z432? The way the air filter housing fits to the engine bay differs, my question is does the fixing point exist on other models (s30, Z-L for example), as some models have places to attach something that was not specifc to that model? On the red airbox pictured not on the car, there is an indent at the back of the carb airbox, I take it this is space for the clutch master? Any other documentation of differences (or correcting me-learning here) would I think make a great thread...
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My two swiss S30Z Fairlady Restoration build thread
FYI- All the roadster North American vendors sell reproduction gaskets for the U20 Solex insulator, as that is the only source now (though I did have some NOS ones a while ago and sold to a European roadster specialist). And repros are widely available from Japan also.
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My two swiss S30Z Fairlady Restoration build thread
If you weren't aware, the U20 Solex carb insulators (16174-25501) have a gasket either side of them, one manifold, one carb. There are also 50mm versions of these.
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My two swiss S30Z Fairlady Restoration build thread
Nice, hadn't seen the JKC one before. My friend runs the HKS type 2 surge tank on his twin turbo set-up.
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Parts for Sale: OEM headlight covers s30
View Advert OEM headlight covers s30 Nissan Datsun 240z 260z 280z OEM headlight covers. Don't often see these for sale.... Used, read and look at the photos. These are my spare pair. Overall condition is very good considering their age and use. But not perfect. They are a mixed pair, see further on. I am going to be picky here so you are fully aware, but I would certainly use if I didn't have a pair on my S30 (one of which was new- so who wouldn't use that on their Z). The right metal trim is stainless steel, whilst the left is chromed steel. Can't tell unless you put a magnet on. The chrome on the steel one is very good, no rust showing, but the chrome is thin, you can see the brush marks below. Otherwise, in excellent condition. As it is a mixed pair, the Perspex on the left is a little awkward to get to fit, a little tight but not under tension, but does fit. The fixing holes don't quite line up fully, but there is enough room for a fixing screw to go through. Both Perspex covers are good, it has a few light swirl scratches (due to cleaning), BUT nothing to be concerned about. There is a little damage around a couple of the fixing holes, due to previous owners tightening down to hard. Most is hidden under the trim. See photos. No fixing kit with these, I would use something like rivnuts. There is an old rubber seal, but I would use as I did, some closed cell foam to stick around the Perspex to seal it to the body. Yes, there is evidence of old adhesive on the Perspex from the original glue/seal, but its very minor. (and you are going to cover it with a new seal....) I had these advertised on Ebay.co.uk, but didn't quite reach reserve, so trying further afield. I will consider offers if they aren't insulting. Shipping to USA, tracked and signed for with more towards the value at about $48. Drop me a line... Advertiser RIP260Z Date 08/28/2021 Price $480 Category Parts for Sale
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Vin/chassis plate stamping
For the CSP311 project, I have a reproduction chassis/VIN tag, and I am looking for the number stamps/punch to put the chassis number back on (the same as on a S30). Yes, any stamp may well do, but I am trying to keep the car very much period/correct, so looking for the correct size and font Nissan would have used back in the day. (Plus I am getting very much OCD about the project!) I have had a search here, I can't see anything (though it doesn't mean there isn't) and the 311s.org forum says the Habour Freight stamp is close, but not on the 4, 7 and 3, which doesn't help. Any direction here please. Cheers Ian
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JDM/option Footrest, differences.
And since we are drifting interestingly to reproduction footrests for the S30, here is an aftermarket one that came from a S30 in Japan (according to the Yahoo auction). No idea who made it, but it's nice. A slight chance its the OEM option footrest for the SP/SR311....?
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JDM/option Footrest, differences.
And the Colin project is available here too; https://jdm-car-parts.com/collections/interior-trim-nissan-datsun-fairlady-z-240z-260z-280z-280zx/products/original-style-foot-rest-for-jdm-fairlady-z-and-roadster-sp-sr?variant=2606391364 I am not a fan, the feet and fixing rivets are wrong. I know its to swap feet around to help sort which way the feet maybe orientated to suit your car (but for me its lazy). And considering the cost of an OEM restored one (which I sometimes restore and sell), at least it is original and looks correct.
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Parts for Sale: JDM/Option S30 footrest
View Advert JDM/Option S30 footrest OEM JDM/option footrest, NOT one of those reproductions that for me, don't look right. Used, but restored by me. It was rusty, and flaky paint, and the feet were seized. Stripped and filed/sanded and powder coated in gloss black. The rubber/plastic foot grip is original, and I didn't remove it, as it was stuck on nicely. More than likely I would damaged it if I tried to remove. So, powder coated with that in situ. There are a few minor nicks in the grip, but it is is great shape considering its age. Feet un-seized, but a little stiff, need some movement. Original fixing coach head bolts left in place as they were fine and original rivets. If you are unfamiliar with the footrest, info can be found here; https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/63606-jdmoption-footrest-differences/ Price a little higher than the last one I sold, as getting a little more expensive to get hold of. $220 plus shipping from UK, which at a quick look is about $37 tracked. Drop me a line if interested or want to know more.... Advertiser RIP260Z Date 08/15/2021 Price $220 Category Parts for Sale
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Restoring and prepping hardware for plating - the "easy" way
My site, some pics of parts before and after plating on this blog page about 2/3rd down (though there are few elsewhere scattered in the blog pages...) https://csp311.net/blog/page-6-ページ6/ For me, I am also looking for a consistency of prep and finish so everything looks the same. Part of the reason I haven't bothered with home kits. Even NOS parts are going back in to be re-plated, as they have faded over time. I'm turning out to be a little OCD, but as much as possible the sharp edges are all chamfered, as this is where the plating process will cover the least. (imagine the amount of plating on the cutting edge of a knife). It's also where anything powder coated starts to go first.
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Restoring and prepping hardware for plating - the "easy" way
I have my parts and the majority of my hardware aqua blasted (vapour blasted) first. Nuts/bolts etc are wired up into a ball so the blaster can pick them up with his protective glove. Single bolts/nuts he won't deal with, as they can't be held easily. Uses a rust inhibitor, so they don't rust straight away. Aqua blasting much less agressive and doesn't remove any metal. Then sent to be plated. That is how I do it.
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Parts for Sale: NOS 510 heater knob
View Advert NOS 510 heater knob NOS 510 heater knob 25345-A4600. Info says its for Sept. 1969 models through to the end in 1973. listing is for 1 knob. It was very difficult to make out the A on the part number, and had to use a microscope at work on the original packaging. Original packaging not supplied. $15 plus the shipping, which I don't think is going to be a great amount as in a Jiffy bag it weighs less than 100g. Drop me a message.... Advertiser RIP260Z Date 08/01/2021 Price $15 Category Parts for Sale
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JDM/option Footrest, differences.
Carrying on with the making parts for the footrest, and relevent, I needed to make some rivets for my SR/SP replica footrest, you see in the first post. I am using a S30 footrest as the donor here. The original rivets (either type) can't be removed without destroying them, (see ealier post). I wanted them to look original as much as I can.... With the original set up, the rivet holds position on the hoop, and the pivot point is on the foot. I decided to use a M8 coach bolt with a square shoulder, just like JDMjunkies above is using and turn it down. The hole size on the hoop is 6mm, so I drilled and tapped to take the M8 thread. The flat side of the rivet I have done is the correct size, whilst the "star shape" end is cut with a hacksaw. I also put a centre hole in (not what the original had) but the plan is use a centre punch to splay the "star shape" out from the centre. It looks a bit like the original, which I think was a press fit, as these type of rivets are found elsewhere on the CSP311 (seats). Plan is to thread the rivet on, can use the hacksaw blade cuts to tighten with a screwdriver until the required tension, then splay the rivet. It seems to work on some trial threaded bar. I think I need to trim the star part back a bit, it sticks out a little too much, but it is the prototype...
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Datsun ( Nissan ) Z and ZX types of transmissions and differentials
Correct. Also, as in first post, UK, Europe/rest of the world didn't get the 280Z, its just a North American thing. The North American market had the 260z (RS30) for 1 (?) year, whilst other markets carried on the the 260Z (e.g. Aust/NZ /even Japan before Nissan recalled all the 260Z they sold). UK (and probably Europe- not sure) 280zx (s130) was R180 for autos, R200 for manual 'boxes. Also, the Japanese market had the S31 for the last couple (?) of years, more than likely 'boxes and diffs were the same (would have to look at fiche to confirm)
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My two swiss S30Z Fairlady Restoration build thread
I presume you realize the spanners are imperial (inch) in size, not the metric for the S30, so won't fit?
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Parts for Sale: S30 Calendar clock or called 1 knob rally clock
View Advert S30 Calendar clock or called 1 knob rally clock This is known as a calendar clock, or sometimes known as a 1 knob rally clock. No, it doesn't come with an ossillator, the 2 knob rally clock does. For me, its a calendar clock. As you see, the face is different than the stock clock, has a orange second hand and its got the date next to the 3. These were standard on some of the JDM market models, and an option in other markets. I think this is part number 27390-N4500. There is a NOS, in the box one on a vendors webiste for $1100. I picked this up a while ago, its used. No, I haven't tried to see if it works, I could do more damage. So, I advise this is sold for restoration, or at least it needs looked at by someone who knows about these things, e.g. Ron at Zclocks, who restored my calendar clock. Therefore sold as is. Condition, looks good, the knob is there, which is a big plus, as they sometimes can be missing, lens isn't got any major scratches or haziness. The outer lip isn't badly damaged. Someone before me has damaged the screws that hold the bracket at the rear, heads all messed up, but that is minor. If my memory serves me, the wiring pins are for the 260z/280z in whatever market, not the 240z. I would consider making up a short sub-harness to overcome any connection issues if you wanted this and it's not a direct fit (or change the wiring/block at restoration). It will fit into a 240z dash, just the wiring pins differ. Also, to fit this in the dash correctly, there is a different fixing strap, its slightly longer as the calendar clock is deeper than the standard clock. Not by much, I just elongated the hole in the strap I had. Price is $250 or very close to. Shipping USA is about $35.50 tracked. Europe is about $22, tracked. Can't be many S30's in North America with a calendar clock. Drop me a PM to discuss. Advertiser RIP260Z Date 03/20/2021 Price $250.00 Category Parts for Sale
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SU fasteners suppliers/throttle shaft?
Is it the shafts that are worn, or the brass bushing? I ask as the shafts are steel (hard) while the bearing is brass and softer. Have you measured the shaft dia against somewhere else on the shaft that isn't in contact with anything to wear the dia down to gather what dia has been lost? Just trying to see what is going on.
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Johan Cruijff's 240z May 1972
Its the same for the UK market cars, maybe a Europe thing.
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NOS parts find
Yes, for sale, I was trying to confirm what I had before seeing if I could sell, Pm me.... if not they will be listed on my website.
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NOS parts find
I found some, what I think, are some NOS parts for the Bluebird P510 here in the UK. Some confirmation from someone with more 510 knowledge than me would be great. The first, does look correct, as the part number lines up with carpartsmanual.com site, being up to 07/'68; The second NOS part came without an original Nissan box, but looks very much like the fuse box advertised here (25410-A8625) ; https://datnissparts.com/x-niles-fuse-box-70-71-datsun-510-2-wire-feed-fb24d-replaces-25410-a4901-25410-a8610-25410-a8615-25410-a8625/ The last a side front indicator (turn signal) looks like the carpartsmanual.com drawing and a quick look elsewhere at images, but the part number is a little off. Maybe its a non-North American part, which carpartsmanual doesn't pick up. Any confirmation/help would be great. Thanks. I know very little about the 510, I think we got them as a UK market car (and Europe [as seen Portuguese registered ones for sale]), but numbers, no idea. Ian