TrojanOreo

Anyone want the old fenders? I'll trash them if not. I'll donate them to the first person who can pick them up. 78 280Z. DFW Texas. http://www.B17A.net/pics/000_0725.JPG

I'm an arse, I fixed it. It was the clutch cylinder...waaay low. Brake cylinder was 1/2 way so I topped them all off. Problem solved. <hits self in head>

Even after adjustment up and down, my e-brake light stays on all the time. Even after I took out the fuse. Any ideas? I can say after the adjustments, I would hear a click in the back brake area the first time I took the brake off and the light would go off, but everytime after that, it would stay on. NOTE: I did just redo the front brakes a few weeks ago, (new calipers, pads and shims), bled the whole system (just because) and pulled the drums off the ensure that everything was on the up and up back there. The fluid was a bit low this morning it the canister closer to the firewall, but still within the range, so I topped it off.

Here's some more, now that I've gotten started on it.... Pic 1 shows the underneath center piece. Pic 2 is a close up of the cancer. Pic 3 shows the culprits. Pic 1 Pic 2 Pic 3 This stuff is adding up, little by litte. It's not much, just a lot of little here, little there. I just need 1 BIG rust spot, and that's it. Knock it all out in 1 blow!

I believe it's called the floor support. It has the another run running parallel to it on the driver's side. I think I've seen these for sale, but I forget where. I just don't have the resources (or $$) right now to saw it off and weld a new one on. I'm putting what little money I have into the paint and body rust.

All I can say about the following is: "ouch". It's not as bad as it looks. Yes, it is a 2 inch hole, but I'm going to cut that remaining rust out and treat the surrounding area. It hasn't spread beyond that, thank goodness. http://www.B17A.net/pics/000_0699.JPG NOTE: Found a buddy who's gonna patch it up after I cut out the rust. I love friends with more tools than me and a garage. Damn apartments.

I know this is a joke, and someone will get a good laugh, but where can I get a decently priced original dash. Mine Z came with a fresh lookin' cap, but I'm looking for the real thing.

NO. F**KIN. WAY. That is insane, and so's the poor sap who forked over $600+ for those things.

I'll head up to Home Depot and open an account today. I've gotta find a garage I can park my baby in. I'd really like to do all the painting myself. I hate apartments...

I have a project for the weekend!

Fortunately, like I said in the PM, that rust on the fender is just local. (Thank goodness) So, I plan on just unbolting that and replacing it. I have a new seal for the windshield so I hope I can find someone competent to help me get the windshield off. And I may just get a new rear hatch since my defrost isn't working either and the seal, although nice and tight, is cosmetically tacky and seems like it was put in by a amateur mechanic. There's a hatch with the same color up at the graveyard for just $60 (which is almost how much the seal costs alone), but it's off a 2+2. Would that cause a fitment problem or should it fit fine?

If someone knowledgeable could click the link that goes to my website...at the very bottom of it there are a few pics showing some surface rust on the top of the car near both the windshield and rear hatch glass. What would be my best approach of getting that treated. Literally step by step would help as this would be my first at attacking this deadly foe. I figure I should be able to sand that down to the metal (?) but I'm not sure where to go from there, if that's where I even start. Basically, I'm body work deficient, and need help. I feel like such an arse...I can overhaul a transmission, rework fuel systems, and install just about anything mechanical, but I'm stumped by brown spots on my metal. Thanks! website: cardomain.com/id/trojanoreo

Pretty self-explanatory, I need a Thermostat housing for a 78 280Z in working, non-beat up condition. Thanks!

I'm gonna cry... Drilled the hole, tapped the hole, inserted the thread. So at this point, I'm ecstatic. Put everything together, fill'er up and....pssss....leaking anti-freeze right by that bolt.... :tapemouth So, I'm giving up. Going to get another thermo housing. But first, I've got to get her home. Soooo, I'm gonna tighten down the working bolt and JB Weld the rest, leave it a day or two, and slow roll it the 10 mile trip home. I'm taking no chances when I get the new thermo housing. (well, not new, but y'know) It's heading to the shop (I can't believe those words just came out my mouth) to get installed so I don't have to deal with any more busted bolts, especially on the head. Such a bummer. :disappoin EDIT: I was browsing the MSA catalog, they have one for $30. Not too bad considering it'll be new. Anyone bought one or anything mechanical from them? I've bought tons of cosmetic stuff from here already with no complaints (except of course, some of the prices) but figuring it'll cost close to that at the junkers, I'm thinking why not. Any input? Thanks for everyone's help through this!

Thanks a million guys!! I'll hunt down that tap wrench and get on it. Hopefully I can wrap this up tomorrow night!

Ok, tonight's adventure: I got tired/pissed off at the bolt, so I snapped it off and drilled the rest out, or I figure a good 99.9% of it. Here's the tool I got to finish the job, but I'm not too sure how to go about using the tap. The directions were far from descriptive, so I'm hoping someone can help me figure out how this goes. Here's a pic of the tools that I bought (from AutoZone). The red installation tool and thread I'm sure is self-explanatory, but the tap it tells me to "Tap thread carefull using correct procedures". What the heck is the correct procedure? Thanks again everyone!

EZ Out huh...tell me more.

Well, figuring the thermostat hasn't been changed since my '78 280Z left the factory decades ago (and it hadn't), I took the task of pulling off the 30 min quick job...which has now turned into a multi-day project (since it's now parked/stuck at my buddies apartment instead of my driveway). My problem: I took the upper part of the housing off after snapping one of the bolts (closest to the head) off. Other one was rusty as all hell, but I babied her out fine. So, I get the cover off and pull the thermostat, clean off the old gasket, yada yada, and then to the task of extracting the remainder of the other bolt. Well...I'm still on that task... after PB Blaster, vice grips (which has grinded the bolt into what looks like a rectangular object now), hammer and screwdriver, tapping, back and forth, brute force, jedi power, hopeful wishing...everything. I've got a small propane torch, but I'm kinda hesistant because it's so close to fuel lines :dead: so I'm lost. I'm tight on time as I need it back to the house (baby due any day now), but I'd like to prevent having to replace the entire housing and run the risk of breaking those bolts! Any other ideas that I haven't seen on the search engine? Thanks!