e_racer1999

man rex, GOLD! sorry i didn't get back to ya today, i'll call ya on monday....? Jason

bwahahaha "they showered me with water...."

ok, i'm fed up with this problem. car has an appointment with Zwhizz on wednesday. while she's there i'm going to have them bleed the brake system, since my rear brakes don't have bleeders (!!)

bwahahahahahahaa

I currently have them on my car (exact setup, MSA air horns and k&n assemblies). I like them. I was thinking about changing over to a stock-type sealed box with a cold air filter on the radiator support. but i read somewhere (either here or hybridz) that underhood temps actually aren't THAT high. so i' keeping my set up until i go EFI and turbo. or triples anyway, if you get ANY different air cleaner set up, you pretty much HAVE to get air horns to maintain performance. but i dig them. and they sound GREAT

are you getting strong spark to all 6?

i don't see how it could cause any loss of power because there is less back pressure..... the loss of low end torque i could see because of the loss of exhaust velocity.

thanks for the quote, steve!!

banjo fittings are the fuel inlets for the carbs. they are the brass things on the top of this pic of the fuel bowl cover: speaking of ztherapy, order the SU videos from them. it will help you A LOT with your carbs. if you haven't dealt with SUs before, this is pretty much mandatory. EDIT - also, did you make sure you're getting reliable spark?

did you check the filter at the banjo fittings? those could be clogged. dod you sync the carbs and adjust the nozzles? did you try starting it with the choke on?

the other drivers complained and said it would be unfair to them

if only i had the $$ and the room to take on another Z...... oh, and no wife

EOS rebel. NICE pics. makes me want to go back to the OG color!

oh, and the altima doesn't have the triple gauges; they are air vents

this thread is hilarious.....

UPDATE - i figured out why it wasn't charging, etc..... the jumper i had made was to the specs on the zcarcreations page (which are for a 280 VR), and i realized it wasn't going to do much when the diode was connected to a blank connector! anyway, i found a thread on here regarding the same issue, and i made jumpers to those specs (jumper from white to yellow, diode from black/white to white/black) and installed them. no dice. car wouldn't even click the starter. SOOOOO.... that brings me back to the drawing board and troubleshooting here i come!

ya, just look for any 7" round headlights

justin - you might want to put thicker carb spacers on...also, get the ZTherapy carb video. worth every penny.. and then some! i also noticed the lack of a fuel return line. i woule address that fuzz - the early 240zs didn't have heat protection on the fuel rai from the factory. they seem to be ok with little to no vapour lock

thanks for that link, ron. i'l check it out in a few, as soon as i post this anyway, i'll reattach the 4AWG back to the switch. also, the alternator is GOOD, so it's definitely a wiring issue. HOPEFULLY the solution to both problems is in ONE wiring mistake. i will have to look. i took apart the covers for the column and everything APPEARED ok. how do i get the blasted ignition switch out? there's some headless screw in there...... oh, and ron, if a plane ticket from canada wasn't so expensive i'd have you down here in no time at all!

welcome! this site is a gold mine of information. spend some time reading through the threads members have posted; almost everything you need to know has been covered! Jason

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/78-84-85-MAZDA-RX7-RX-7-ROUND-HALO-PROJECTOR-HEADLIGHTS_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33710QQihZ012QQitemZ220126530764QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

yes. you can find them on ebay all the time. look for either angel or halo headlights. might have to add round or something like that.

is that like running around wearing ballerina outfits?

ok, well i know that it's not the alternator that keeps the car running.... the alternator isn't charging!! sooo.... today i'm taking out the alternator (new) and taking it to autozone to have them test it. if it tests bad, then obviously i'm going to have them replace it. if the alternator tests good, then it's obviously a wiring problem. i triple checked my diode and it's fine. however, i did disconnect the white/red wire that's attached to the alternator and replaced it with a 4AWG wire running back to the battery cutoff switch. would this cause one of these problems? (edit: if i read correctly, that white/red wire goes through the diode, correct? if that's the case, how do i do the 4AWG wire to the back of the car?) if anyone in/around san diego is good with wiring/electrical and wants to come help me out, i'll offer beer and maybe car parts!