e_racer1999

you're right! what usually went here was me being stupid and saying that it was 73, but yet again i am wrong! very interested now though, let me figure my financial situation. anything wrong with it? will it survive a drive down to san diego? (not insinuating that YOU drive it down, just curious)

i'm seriously thinking about it. anybody know if said 280z would pass CA emission standards?

very nice car and it's in my town! too bad i don't have $6000 to spend on another Z. i know what you mean about the color combo growing on you. i didn't like it at first, but the more you look, the more you like!

and make sure you oil it with k&n oil because a lighter oil(engine oil, cooking oil ) won't work as well and could damage the filters..

^^ i believe they have mandrel benders....

it looks a little squashed on top. kinda like they used up all of their material on the bottom half and had to make the top short. glass shortage maybe?

http://www.cardesignnews.com/news/2004/040813ford-gr1/ this one has a ton of specs: http://www.fast-autos.net/ford/fordgr1.html

hmm.... i didn't know that the fairlady roadster was called a "z"..... you learn something new everyday

VB = victoria british... go to victoriabritish.com to get a catalog. and yes, 240zx is correct. the 3-2-1 is good for low end power since it provides better exhaust velocity (NOT to be confused with the evil and misunderstood demon that is backpressure) while the 6-1 provides the best flow. the set-up that i plan on running is the MSA 6-1 aerospace coated header with their turbo 2.5" exhaust... IMHO the best set-up

ya, looks stock to me!

correct me if i'm wrong, but mounting the battery in the rear will screw up the weight ratio in a Z.... isn't the weight distribution 55/45 (r/f)? unless you are going for drag, that's gonna make the car handle even MORE like an MR

that sounds like an original valve cover.

okay, update: i tried swapping out the 20A fuse for a 10A, still no dice. i disassembled the T/S switch and cleaned the carbon and it's still not working.... any other ideas?

here's mikew's PDF: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=5238

haha... i thought you were talking about a haircut.... anyway, ya it does look like it has been milled a bit

gotcha.... thanks for the input! i'm going to have to disassemble my switch in that cast. thanks for all of the input guys!

ok..... makes sense now...

you mean there's a fuel level warning lamp??? wow..... never knew that

greyghost: i actually went through 2 schematics myself (FSM and chiltons) and i spent the better part of 3 days diagnosing it. i'm assuming that these professional electricians (oh god please let me be right!) know what they are doing.... i REALLY hope they know what they are doing. if it turns out that they screw up and realise that it's the T/S switch, they sure as HELL better not charge me for it. i'm going to set that straight. mikew: i'll attempt a search for your post and i will pick it up from the elec. shop and try it out. thanks for the ideas.... also, something i just realised... are all of the 240 combo switch and T/S switches essentially the same? if they are then there's no way that i should have to wait 8-10 days (that's what they say.... from the east coast on an NLA product) because it is a normally stocked item from VB! i'll have to edjumakate them..... PS - if it were my T/S switch then wouldn't my turn signals not work? if that's the case then that can't be it b/c they do... just not the hazards or the brake lights...

well, i just found out that my car's brake lights weren't working 'cause it's my combo switch and they want to charge me an outlandish amount for a combo switch (and $248 labor). if ANYONE has a fully working combo switch that they can get me for a reasonable price e-mail at e_racer1999@yahoo.com or reply to this ASAP! thanks guys... -jason

san diego here... not ZCSD yet though

... could be the reason it's a 4-cyl!

yes, i used an ohm meter.... AND i tried jumper....ing.... the wires but to no avail. tomorrow i get half a day off so i'm going to continue troubleshooting this... the time and experience is worth saving the hundreds of dollars....

thanks for the file, but i've already been perplexed my FSM AND my chiltons.... this is getting so annoying! it sucks having to work all the time and not fixing my car... anyway, thanks for all of the help!

okay cleaned and fixed my fuse block. check. now for the toughie.. the brake lights. they STILL don't work. tested the brake switch: operating perfectly. it appears that somehow the green/yellow wire that runs from the fuse block (+) turns into a negative (-) wire at the combination switch and brake switch. does anyone know if this is how it's supposed to be? i used a test light between the fuse block and the green/yellow combo wire and it lit up. if this is how it's supposed to be PLEASE let me know so i know where to look for the short. also, does the hazard switch do that or could it be burned out? the hazards still work which is throwing me off... anyway, thanks!