e_racer1999

stock the L28 makes more power than the L26, even with dished pistons IIRC

SPOT ON! my DD is an infiniti I30. since i bought it, i've actually seen fine examples go for ~4000; not too much for a great DD! but anyway, i must repeat that a DD needs to be comfortable and it needs to suit you. however, i would have NEVER dreamed that i would be cruising around in a 4 doo,r FWD, automatic sedan IN MY LIFE! but it's comfortable.

just to add a wee bit of info - the difference in the 240, 260, and 280 blocks is pretty simple. the 240s have the lowest HP rating (don't confuse the 151 it states with the 139, etc of the others. the inital rating was SAE gross not net, ie without accessories) because they have the lowest displacement. they are 2.4L, 2.6L, and 2.8L respectively. the reason that the cars got slower over the years isn't because the engines were made inferiorly (is that a word?), it's because the cars got heavier and the smoq reuirements got stricter. the carb issue that andy had mentioned involves nissan's replacement of the traditional-style, "roundtop" SU carbies with emission compliant "flattop," Hitachi design SUs. that being said, of you are looking for power upgrades, bigger is almost always better, and a common mod done to 240s and 260s is increasing displacement to 2.8 by replacing the block, and in extreme cases boring/stroking the blocks up to 3.2L. anyway, welcome to the site, and I know you will be able to get all of the info you need from the members here! Jason

wow, this thread got hilarious real quick

just a note, the metro is a suzuki swift. more trivia

^agreed. out of all of the things on the car, the rust is the least easiest to fix.

stopped, clutch in. rolled back and hit her.

i mean, you were in gear but the clutch was disengaged, right? if that's the case and she was too close for you to move forward then that's not allowing enough space and following too closely....

ummm...... that's a tough question...... maybe they sell ferraris as well?

yes. following too closely is an "at-fault." you could not safely go from a stop because you, like 40% of all americans, drive a manual transmission. if someone is following too closely for you to safely move forward, they are at fault. period. and there are CA laws that state that. so iuf need be, go to court and WIN A NEW PORSCHE!

haha, well, to bring this thread back on topic!!! WELCOME! good luck on finding yourself you first Z!

ok, you've convinced me. go ahead and buy it and i suppose i will take it off your hands. but know that this would be a HUGE favor to you.

i bought my current Z off of ebay from a guy in San Jose a couple years ago. Flew up there and drove her down. had to get a new battery half way down because the VR was screwed, but other than the smell of rotten eggs, the trip was great!

what price range are you in? i see miatas around here for ~1500. i was thinking about a Z31 once upon a time before i found a decent 240Z. they clean up nice. as for the corrola; they are very dependable, good on gas, and fit 5 people. good for a DD. however, my heart is RWD.... why not look into a P10 G20? (edit - after reading this sentence, i realized that the G20 isn't RWD... ) or even an M30? keep it nissan, baby!

i completely forgot about the smog angle. going turbo is THE WAY TO GO IMO. you're not going to be able to get much more out of the engine NA and still have it pass emissions.

n42 = bigger valves, more flow with no modification e31 = slightly higher compression ratio (i think on my f54 with flat top pistons it's like a .3 to 1 difference) i chose the n42 because it's less hassle

all of them, i believe. i know all of the sport packages, at least. EDIT - 99+ so newer only

^agree with above. i also have a set of ARE 15x7 meshies. LOVE THEM. but if you like the nardi type steering wheel and don't want to shell out 250, you can check ebay or also try to find a miata wheel; they use nardi wheels.

just for personal reference (this also works into a recommendation for AndysPlit), would the KA24 pistons with the 240Z rods work without turning them down if the stroker crank isn't used? if so, that would certainly be an economical big bore upgrade.

to answer your last question, people bore out the L28 blocks to 89mm for the 3.1L motor. usually they use the F54 block because it is arguably a bit stronger. but the setup that i'm going with is similar to daniel's, and i think it's a pretty darn nice, quick street setup. i've got an F54 L28 block with flattop pistons N42 head, milled slightly & mildly ported stage III MSA cam with valvetrain MSA 6-1 header into 2.5" exhaust albiet i'm going through SUs, i think it's a good setup. i think that you can build something up pretty similar for around 1500 if you do the work yourself. stout combination, and you can use your same block and crank....

on your car i think that the black bumpers fit the style well. IMO your car is a case when the chrome bumpers wouldn't look as nice. i really like your setup as well - everything goes together nicely

thanks for that heads up, gary. i'm looking into a resonator for when i do MY MSA exhaust, and i would have grabbed just any old glasspack

i would assume after the cat. i haven't done it myself, but i would think that right after the cat (within 6") would be ideal. just a guess. i don't remember who did the tape thing.... gary?

^ya, amomo wheel would look good. FWIF, i didn't mean the classic nardi wheel (a la porsche, ferrari, etc.) more along these lines: (from http://www.carmansgarage.com/category/car.aftermarket/ ) and then be mated with one of these shift knobs: JMHO

nice! i would go with a nice nardi wheel since it seems you're going more for a modern look on the interior with the seats. also, at the same time, replace the shift knob with one that matches the steering wheel. my $0.02