e_racer1999

that's what i figured. i'll see before i dismantle the other side.

i would say out of service. what part of so cal?

i didn't notice the angle. i will check when i take out the other side. how does it maintain its position?

another note - i think that a PO may have done a mulholland suspension upgrade because i have a 15/16" front sway bar (whice i read was a common diameter for mulholland) and i also have a rear sway bar. the PO i bought it from said that one of the owners had invested a lot of $$ into the car. the engine is an L28 that looks to have been refreshed several years ago, and the person that did this may have invested in an interpart susp upgrade (!!)

any more literature, links on the interpart mulholland performance suspension? i found a little information on dime quarterly, but nothing regarding these puppies. if i keep them (which i suppose i will, after learning their performance history), is the offset supposed to be directional, or does it rotate? thanks!

for the time being it's rubbing the valence. it actually bent it in about 2 inches and now it requires replacement. i've got foberglass molds that i am going to be making flares for the car. once i do that (later down the road) i will cut my fenders and valence to match, then deal with better handling

cool. thanks for the advice, curtis!

sweet. OUT THEY GO! i bet they were what caused me to rub on my front valence.

exactly what i was thinking. but the thing is that my car is not lowered in the front....

i went to replace my control arm bushings with MSA's urethane ones and i pulled out these: here you can barely see the PI imprint here's the MSA right next to it and here's the top, where you can see the offset. they have either PI or IP stamped on them and appear to be metal with small urethane bushings. are these worth keeping instead of the urethane ones? any idea why they're offset? Jason

i have the same ones in black. don't wate your money on these. you will have to drill holes and they come loose after a while

realized that i had put in synthetic when i installed the tranny (DUH) so it wouldn't help now.....

why not just pull out the tranny and engine as one and swap it straight out? also, i'd keep the fuel tank and electrical harnesses and swap the EFI over to the 240. but that's just me....

short answer: yes just swap over the carbs and manifold. good, quick bolt-in mod.

i was just going to take the tranny to AAMCO but they wanted 460 JUST IN LABOR! so that wasn't happening. i was reading a thread earlier and i believe that zbane mentioned a "needle bearing" that needs replacing. anyone have a part number or know how to do it? my symptoms (like someone else on this forum) include loud whining in first and second. it's less in third and fifth, and nonexistant in 4th. also, i thought my throwout bearing was bad because my tranny had a kind of rattling sound when the clutch was ENGAGED (pedal not depressed). but from what i read in another thread, the throwout bearing is the exact opposite. anyway, help? part number? schematics? wanna come do my tranny for me? Jason

a roadster. they were comp carbs for roadsters and i've seen them on 510s, too

ah yes! i saw your car. nice!.... didn't do much talking as the wife wasn't feeling too well from the sun.... i will upload pics when i get home and after i do some work on the Z....

i must not have seen you, randy, otherwise i would have said something about the shirt! anyway, great venue. and the weather decided to cooperate this year!!! i missed the other datsuns that usually show up, though (510s, roadsters, etc) were they left out on purpose, does anyone know? anyway, great show and some nice cars! EDIT - one thing i didn't like, NO CELL RECEPTION! i missed out meeting with a few of you guys

welcome! you have made it to a great site that has tons of people that know a bunch.

ah yes, as alan's post points out, if you are purchasing JDM parts then definitely go with the '78. i continue to forget that australia is closer to japan than US

ya, it'd be safer ordering parts for a '79, since in the US the '78 was still an S30 and most of the parts you order will reflect that.

i don't recall what the SU rebuild kits cost; been a while. if you're worried about shelling out dough for the SUs that you aren't going to keep, realize that you will probably get back what you paid for the SUs and the rebuild kits if you turn around and sell a set of rebuilt, tuned SUs. what i'm saying is DO IT. it's worth it. but you are going to need more than JUST the SUs. i don't know all of the parts needed for a swap since my car came withe round tops, but if you search on this site you're sure to find something.

any SUs will do. rebuilding is not expensive, but i would expect to pay ~50 for a decent one. go thru Ztherapy. you won't regret it. if you wanna get serious, buy some from ZT. SWOOT..

^ya, i doubt the SUs will depreciate

all L-series heads are compatible with all L-series blocks. if the head is from a bigger displacement block than what it's going on, you may need to notch the block. but otherwise it's swap-n-go