e_racer1999

that. was. awesome.

also, remember if you play with the e31 you have smaller valves. sure you can modify the head to fit the larger valves, but i would just run with an N42 and expect a 10:1 CR. you can run crummy gas without much fear. that's what i'm doing at least...

first for me is a 240Z second would be a '75 280Z (smog exempt in CA and EFI; easy for a turbo swap) third would probably be a turbo 280ZX as mentioned previously, personal preference. number one: get one with as little body work needed as possible!!!! engine problems are relatively cheap. trust me, you'll agree.

trunk monkeys

swap in a geo metro motor first. then you can use a special technique to extrude hone the engine while it's in the car. while the engine is running, pour some high grade silica into the intake manifold. you should probably get one of those oil bypass kits from kalecoauto.com

really? because 5-speed R180 280zx's have 3.36.... did they skip the 280zs? EDIT - they did!

IIRC isn't the stock rear 3.37? i used 2350 as my calculation factor at 65mph (calibrated with two other cars)

just to make sure this was not directed at me, my car is not stock and is pushing approx 230hp (guesstimate) not that i'm implying that you were directing that to me, but hey

hahaha, no kidding! sweet ride nonetheless but sorry, there's only one king in the house

goooot it....

up to 140 with power to go. didn't have the guts to keep going. measured with an aftermarket tachometer, assuming that in 79 280zx fifth gear 2350 rpm = 65 mph

are they downdraught DGVs? If so, my opinion is to keep on the SUs for optimal performance. but you can clean up the stuff (sans K&N) with berryman's dip. of course, you'll want to disassemble the carbies to avoid eating the gaskets. might as well replace 'em though. the K&Ns can be cleaned up with K&N cleaner, reoiler.

i can't stand people who own datsuns and infiniti i30s

welcome Jason from San Diego! Don't know about ITS prepped engines; what do the rules say regarding head series?

you're going to be searching quite a while for one with an original v6

^truer words have never been spoken. although i do see some of the desire to keep it a 2.4L. you can build up a pretty beefy 2.4L and still be able to compete, although the HP and TQ numbers will obviously be down. with a 2.4L there are really very few things you can do, and most of it lies in headwork. bigger valves (will require eyebrowing the block), port/polish, bigger cam. you can throw triples on there and get some more grunt. put a decent header on there. electronic ignition will make it more driveable. all of this can apply to an L28, too but remember, with all engine builds the devil is in the detail.

they make a black tape that is designed to stick to "chrome" trim. it's on ebay all the time.

where is the noise coming from; the "front" part of the driver's compartment or more even with the seats? if it's more even with the seats then it's the diff. sounds like it could be the input shaft otherwise.

the metal part of the rotor should be pointing to the front. by wiring the dizzy 180 out i mean revers the way that the wires are plugged in. for example, put the wire for cylinder 1 on the other side of the cap (the back) and do that all the way around. i'm at work but i'll try to get you a picture

if your motor is at TDC the rotor should point to the front. try wiring the cap 180 out

i would find out if you have dished or flat top pistons in the N42 block (my guess would be dished... rather silly for a "high-compression" combo). if I were you i would invest in some flat top pistons and an N42 head (good for 10:1) to get some flow, then worry about carburetion. stock SUs would work fine. oh wait, that IS what i did.... plus a ~.500 lift ~.300 dur cam...

wow, you've got your work cut out for you. so the front carb isn't sucking ANY air? that can't be good... bent valves, maybe?

welcome back! if you need any help i'm local in Santee (although short on time )

correct. actually, now that i think about it, the vent hose for the fuel tank (the one that's attached to the valve on the inner fender) is vented into the air

i put nipples in the backs for all except large one from the valve cover. i put a baby filter on the valve cover