bartman

To some extent your analogy is correct. My choice was to either pay the extra $20 per year (I believe that was the amount added to the annual membership) to remain a member of my local Z club or drop out of the club. This happened while the magazine was still Sport Z, and I lost out on a few issues that I actually paid for. It's not a benefit if you get charged the cost of the subscription on top of the annual dues...in fact, my own subscription would be cheaper than the price my club charged me. I enjoy freedom of choice, and I would much prefer to decide whether or not I want to subscribe on my own.As far as I know, this was a choice made by my local Z car club and not you; so it's really a mute point. -Bart AKA The Heretic

I received my copy last Friday, and it's the best one yet. Even though there isn't that much S30 stuff, I understand that it doesn't make financial sense for the magazine to focus too much on them. I must say that I wouldn't have renewed my subscription from SZM, but the Z car club that I belong to included a subscription to NSM. At first I wasn't happy with being forced to subscribe to a magazine just to be a member of the club, but now I'm happy that I have a subscription. BTW - Although this site would probably not approve I have new 18x8.5 rims on the front and 18x9.5 rims on the back of my 73 240Z and they're stuffed under the stock fenders; but then again the 362 RWHP V8 isn't exactly Classic Zcar fare either.

I called MSA about these plugs a while back. They told me that they can get them for me, but I need to measure the holes and provide them with the mesaurements. I guess the number of holes and sizes can vary. I don't recall the exact price they told me, but I recall it being pretty reasonable.

Based mainly on the information provided in the thread I went ahead and bought the JC Whitney Window Channel Felt. I haven't had a chance to drive it aorund yet, but so far I have to say it was a good upgrade. My old channel felt was in pretty bad shape and it broke into pieces while I was removing it. The replacement pieces fit nicely and seem to provide a good seal to the window.

Lots of good information. I will be painting my car soon and I'm sure this information will help me as well. One thing that I would like to add is that if you don't follow Enrique's advice and put your hood and fenders on the car, make sure you paint them oriented the same way as the will be once they're installed. For instance the hood should be laying down not hanging vertically. If you don't do this you may find that when you put the car back together the colors don't completely match. Here's a link to a thread on HybridZ that you may find useful. He painted the hood vertically off the car and wound up redoing the whole paint job! http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=115685

This sounds like a great deal to me. My switches are on their way to Dave along with an extra set for spare parts.

Just to let you know, I updated the bumpers on my 73 to the 70-72 European style bumpers (The European bumpers have no provisions for the rubber strips). I first ordered mine from MSA and they are fairly expensive. They weren't listed on their web site, but when I called they were available. The front worked out great with a fairly decent chrome job and a good fit when using the 70-72 brackets. The rear was a different story. MSA worked with me, but after three different try's I finally had to cancel the order. The chrome wasn't too good (thin and incomplete coverage) and they had pretty severe gouges in the chrome. I could have overlooked the imperfections, but the price was just too steep for me to do that. I wound up getting the rears off eBay, and I'm very happy with the results. So if you want to go this route be prepared to pay a hefty price and be careful to check the quality of your parts.

I think you meant to say a diesel crank...not a 'desil cam'. In addition, I think you can get an intercooler setup for much less that $2800.00.

I used the 260Z (or early 280Z) retractables on my 73 240Z. It works great, but it's a little bit of a hastle putting them on with one retractor on the lap belt and a different one on the shoulder belt.

I realize this is an old thread, but it seems like a good fit for my question. I've been working on lining everything up on my car (cowl, hood, fenders, inspection lids, headlight buckets, bumper, etc.) and I'm having trouble with my passenger door. I think I have everything forward of the door lined up now, but the door sits too far to the rear. The gap is too small at the rear quarter panel and too large at the front fender. Any suggestions on how to tackle this problem?

Konig is selling 16x7 Rewinds, they just haven't made it to their website yet. You can call or send an email to Gabriel at Techno Toy Tuning. P.S. - I have nothing to do with them, but someone from HybridZ already contacted Gabriel in regards to these rims.

There are several members of HybridZ that have installed the power steering rack from a Subaru Forester. I hope ClassicZCars doesn't mind me posting a link to HybridZ: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=112003

I did some more checking, and it appears you are correct! I need an adapter to make it fit correctly, and they have them at JTR (http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_DATZ_Wat-Temp-Send.html). I ordered one today and I'll give that a try.Thanks for your help.

I think the threads are both the same NPT.

:stupid: Yes, I installed both the stock water temperature sending unit and the stock oil pressure sending units on my V8 (using stock gauges for them).I think that it's leaking between the nut and the sending unit, not the nut and the block...but I could be wrong. Good point about the thread sealant though, I didn't think about losing the ground connection. I used thread tape on the last one I installed and the gauge stopped working...you may have solved that problem. It seems to me that the retaining nut should have a better seal on the sending unit itself to keep it from moving around and leaking.

I purchased a Water Temperature Sending Unit along with a new retaining nut from MSA (http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/SCC13/16-7110 & http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/SCC13/16-7115). My question is how do you install this so that it doesn't leak. The retaining nut fits around the sending unit, but it doesn't seem to be tight enough to prevent water from leaking between the two. I bought a sending unit from a local parts store a few days earlier, and that one leaks when I installed it with the old retaining nut. I figure I'd get a new one and a nut to see if it would solve the problem, but it doesn't look like it will.

Here's the pic of the device I mentioned that I guess is supposed to light the cigarette lighter: I tested my gauge wiring by supplying power to one end and grounding the other end with a test light. The test light lit up, so I figured it must be hooked up correctly and the gauge was bad. I found one on eBay for $15.00 including shipping, plugged it in...and voila everything works. Thanks for all the info.

Okay, Ed used the universal door/trunk/hatch seal and it seemed to work alright ("not 100% percent happy"), but beandip posted a different part number for a Push On Weatherstrip. Did anyone try the Push On type, and if so how well did it work? I can't tell the difference between the two looking at JC Whitney's web site, but there's a significant price difference. I'm wondering if the Push On type is a little softer and would work a little better. In the initial post of this thread Ed was questioning whether or not the weatherstip he provided the link for was the "correct one". Maybe the people at the convention he was at were talking about the Push On type?

I thought it was some sort of light for the cigarette lighter, but although the device lights up the cigarette lighter doesn't. Maybe something's wrong with the fiber optic part. Mine also doesn't go through the hazard pull switch.Any advice on how to determine where my problem is with my gauge? I would think I could put a current through it with a multimeter to determine if the gauge is working or not.

I've removed my dash to install a Vintage Air System and I'm currently in the process of reinstalling it. I have everything working except for my Oil Pressure and Water Temperature gauge. I also have a small electrical device that I don't understand. The device is a small metal cylinder that had one bolt holding it to the inside of the dash. It has a light inside it for some reason and the light turns on when the other dash lights are turned on. It is connected to the lights and has one connection to the side of the cigarette lighter. I took a picture and put it in my gallery, but it's pending approval. I don't think this device is causing any problem, but I'm just curious as to its intended function. On the gauge problem, I tried grounding the wires that connect to the sending units with no response from the gauge needles. I used a test light and it lights up when I do this with the key turned on. Either there's a connection that I missed when I reinstalled or there's a problem with the gauge. How can I test the gauge or the wires that connect to the gauge (can I just provide a power and ground and expect to see the needle move)?

I recently removed my dash to install a Vintage Air system and I think these pictures you posted will help me reinstall the wiring correctly. The colors not matching can definitely make the job more confusing. So thanks for the post, and I have one question. My car is a 73 (I'll have to look if it's early or late), could my car have any differences than the "early 240Z" pic's you posted?

thanks BadDog I couldn't figure out that switch for the life of me. After I read your post I had the knob off in less than thirty seconds!

Thanks for the info and the picture. Your picture shows a glovebox door that is pretty much identical to the one's in my '73 and '72 parts car. Great solution!