classic240z

My '72 had a little over 500,000 miles on it before a cracked ring finally blew a chunk out of no. 3 piston. I drove it the rest of the way home, too. It still had good power, didn't use oil. Leaked a little, but didn't burn any. The only thing we did to this engine, other than tune-ups, was replaced the valve guide seals. That's it. Take good care of it, it will take care of you.

I have plugged all of the vent lines in my '72 exept the one at the top of the tank and ran it to the filler neck. I don't know if there is an air pocket or not, but when the gauge hits "E", I fuel up. The tank the way it is will hold every bit of thirteen gallons. I have never ran it all the way out to see how much it would take bone dry. I still get the gas smell when I fill up, but not as bad as it was before I disconnected the vent lines. I unhooked mine because they started leaking if I filled it more than a half tank. But I've been driving it this was for ten years now without any problem; although some day I will probably take the tank out and do things right.

If you have an electric fuel pump, there may be a short in there somewhere. If it's an add-on and not fused that would definetly cause the amp meter to jump. It would shut the pump down also causing starvation. Another good cheap thing to do would be to change the fuel filter. If it's screwing up more in third and fourth that sounds like the culprit. Especialy if it started all at once. You never know when you're going to get bad gas. That's what it's there for Good luck

I've had my '72 to 135 ONCE. Scared the crap out of me. Definatly do some suspension work before pulling one of those "lets see how fast can my car go" stunts. It quits pulling hard at around 120-125, but if you keep your foot in it for awhile it will keep gaining ground.

My '72 did the same thing. One of the carb pistons was dirty and getting in a bind. You might try taking them out and cleaning them up. Before you take them apart, check to be sure the pistons move up and fall all the way smoothly. Sometimes the top of the carb can put things in a bind, but you can sometimes thighten or loosen one of the three screws (trial and error) and get things moving free again.

There is a wire pigtail that comes off the power post of the starter(the one that the + battery wire goes to). It plugs into a wire that goes in the wire harness along the frame rail. That wire feeds the entire car. If it was left unhooked or is corroded, broken,etc. that would probably be why theres no juice even when you try to jump start it. It's a place to start anyway. Good luck! Classic240z

I did the full face cover thing, and it looks real good. The only draw-back is the glove box doesn't come right open, you have to stick your finger in there and pull a little. The full cover curves into the glove box hole a little and the "lid" rubs on it. Other than that thay're great. Nobody will know its a cover unless you show them the seam way down at the bottom. classic240z

My number three piston committed suicide, so I got to tear the whole engine apart for a rebuild. I got the head done (along with everything else), got things going back together but the cam looks a little advanced. Not more than a tooth. I did the whole TDC and shiny link thing so I assume it's right, but it just doesn't look right. I turned the engine by hand, nothing hits anything else. I'm not far enough along to see if it will fire ( just need cap, wires and plugs) Gettin' kinda nervous about cranking the starter without knowing if things are in time. I am not looking forward to tearing the front of the engine off again. Anyway, does anyone know how the lobes (#1 ) should sit at TDC? My exhaust lobe sits even and the intake is at about 10 o'clock. Where should the dowel in the front of the cam be? Straight up? A little to one side or the other? Btw The cam gear is set to no. three hole. This chain only had 25,000 miles on it, so I used it again, just put in new guides. Any ideas?..............anyone?? CLASSIC240Z

I appriciate all the information. I figured most responses would be "pull the tank". I've had the hoses plugged since I first started driving the car seven years ago. It's done fine other than not holding a full tank of fuel. So as much as I hate to do it, I guess I'll just do it right. Thanks a lot...and if anybody wants to come to Oklahoma City to do this for me; feel free!

This may just be my car, but my '72 has a fuse inside the stereo compartment. It's to the right (looking from the drivers' seat) of the stereo. I ran into the same problim while crossing the Rocky mountains in November. No defroster sucks. Anyway I came across this lone blue wire with a "push and twist" fuse. The fuse was blown so I changed it and the blower has worked ever since. You'll probably have to take the stereo back out to see if you have the same setup. I imagine that wire was installed when the A/C was put in when the car was new, but then again it may be factory. At least that's a place to start. Good luck, classic240z

The hoses going from my fuel tank to the expansion tank are all rotted and leaking. My Z is a daily driver so I don't have time to pull the tank and replace the hoses. I cut and plugged all but one hose and routed it to the filler neck hoping that would be enough ventilation for it, but it takes about ten minutes to get all the gas squeezed in it will take. There seems to be an air pocket in the top of the tank; from bone dry to full (for it) is only about twelve gallons. Maybe thats full, but someone told me it should hold more like fourteen. Any ideas on what to do (other than replace every hose)? Thanks, Classic240z

The car has no class.