SavannahZ

She doesn't even go in the gap! That's pretty funny.

Very nice work!

In addition, his feedback isn't the greatest either.

Nothing like 1971 Led Zeppelin in my 1971 Z!

They are the 92 model. I have the same ones in fourteen. I don't think mine were ever gold, although I have seen both.

Hello all, I took off the climate control faceplate to figure out why I wasn't getting any heat in my car. It turns out that the wire that attached to the defrost/room slider was not working and therefore wouldn't allow any heat unless it was on the defrost side. I changed postitions and now I have a great gush of heat. Anyhow, now that I have to put it back together I need a little help. The tubing that goes around a couple of my wires are in horrible shape. Where would I get more of that tubing? Is this something that is universal, to an extent, and I could get at a car parts store? Has anyone found a method for fabricating something at home? If somebody has an old parts car that didn't need their old ones? Thanks a lot!

Nice car! I'm looking forward to the next installment.

Awesome instructions Mike

Sounds like a lot of fun!

That ending is great! Thanks

27%---racer x---that was fun

I was there the other day and saw they had the wonderful AMC Pacer!

Will, I was going to give you a call here in the next couple of days. I have school tomorrow, but could definitely have you over tomorrow in the morning or after five...or thursday morning/afternoon?? I can't believe that we live so close to each other. Let me know what times are good for you! "Baby is baking exactly as planned" --now that's funny--congratulations again!! Talk to ya soon, ---Jonathan

I filled up yesterday and the prices have gone up quite a bit in the last couple of weeks to 1.95 a gallon here in Savannah, Ga. Unbelievable, really, how it just seems to have no ceiling in sight. savannahZ

o.k., after doing a little research...I am only supposed to be getting around 5-6v because that is what the external resistor is there for. It limits the juice to the points so they don't get worn down quickly?? Is that right? So, I am getting the right amount of voltage to the coil...now I just need to figure out whether the ohms readings I did on the coil are correct or not. Thanks

I checked the voltage today and am only getting 5v. I tested this with the ground to negative on the coil and also the ground at the battery. I did this with the ignition position at "on". The battery is showing 12v and so are some of the connectors down the line. Does this mean that there is something impeding flow in the line? Does this mean the coil isn't receiving the current or that it is not putting it out? All of the connections and wires are in good shape and tight as far as I can tell. I then removed the coil to check the resistance. I have never had anyone show me how to use the tester, so I will give you guys all readings and hopefully someone will decipher them for me. probes at pos and neg... 2000 = 002 20k = 0.00 with the pos side connected and the neg probe in the center output... 20k = 7.02 Thanks again, savannahz

Yes, I meant the tach. It has been a long day! I have to learn about the points system as this is my first older car. What is the dizzy, the rotor? The ballist is the rectangular object next to the coil attached to the body of the car? The car is all stock, except for the L6 engine that is basically stock with three screw carbs. It has an electric fuel pump that I have checked the connection already. I do notice that when I turn the ignition on and I hear the fuel pump whirring that the noise fluctuates. I'm not quite sure that it did this before. It sounds like when I'm driving the car and I turn on the indicator the fuel pump will go up and down in pitch with the indicator's arrow going on and off. I need to pull out the multi-meter tomorrow and take some readings.3 Thanks, savannahz

Hello all, My car is having a problem with its electrical system. A couple weeks ago I was driving on the highway and my car lurched a couple of times. It kind of felt like the power was turning on and off. It did it that one time and not again until today. What is happening is that the speedo needle is jumping around from 500-1500rpm constantly when idling while the idle is unaffected. This only started happening when the car started lurching. I cleaned the battery connections and checked the ground as well. The car starts fine and runs great half of the time. The worst of it was when the car just turned off at a light. I cranked and cranked and it wouldn't start. I then pushed it into a gas station and waited five minutes and it started right up. I drove it home from there. I have looked through the archives for similiar scenarios, but have come up empty on a whole. Could the alternator be half performing...on its way out of commision? If it was the alternator wouldn't the other guages be affected? Everything is perfect except for those symptoms. Thanks everyone for taking the time, savannahz

Hello, I need a driver's side outer chrome door handle. This is for a 1971 series one. I also need a passenger and driver side mirrors. Thanks a lot, savannahz

hey, I went to autozone today and bought some rubber caps. I put one one the master vac and one on the manifold. All problems went away and the brakes are almost back to normal, just harder to push. I'm going to drive it this way for a couple weeks until I get moved and everything squared away. They do sell the booster around town for around eighty dollars. Yes, I just need to prepay and wait I guess. I'm right now trying to re-grease my wiper arms, as they are going too slow to even fend off a drizzle. Thanks again, SavannahZ