Kirby

Hey All! Could someone please provide me with information from a tyre placard on a 2-seater 260Z. I need to know the maximum allowable wheel + tyre combo. Cheers!

Hows the progress? Did you have any luck finding connectors for the main junction, behind the dashboard?

The valence corner or the door trim?

The 260Z is 100% dismantled and the engine is in a state of partial-teardown. The front guards and doors are at the alkaline dip for rust treating and etching, the other panels are in a state of semi-stripped waiting for the sun to come out so i can prep and etch them. All the little parts are sitting in a 40-Gallon drum of thinner, slowly getting stripped, at the paint shop. The shell is under a car cover in my backyard, waiting for my knee to be good enough (post-op arthroscopy) for me to tow it to the shop to begin body/engine bay/interior paint stripping. Then im trying to figure out how to get parts from VB to me in the shortest/yet cheapest manner, with them not able to air-ship certain parts. I need to rebuild my dissy, do the gaskets and clean up my engine. Fix the engine wiring loom. Fix the Efi Loom injector connectors (all screwed, replacements are $8 each), clean the manifold, buy new injectors. Blast and paint the extractors and get a boss for a EGO sensor welded in Then i need to find some new wheels so the ones that i got with the car (skyline ti rims) can be thrown off a cliff for being crap and having toomuch offset. Then need to sound-proof and trim the interior, and put it all back together and hope it works. And I have 3 months to do this before I move to QLD.

Hey, I know this should go in classefeids but, since this is an aussie subforum and i really dont want to buy from the USA. I'm looking for a Passenger front valence corner (where the indicator/parker combo light bolts in) for a 240/260Z mine is almost 80% bog and I refuse to have that quality of panel on my rebuild. Ill give you a good price and pay for shipping, if you have a donor car and this is in reasonable nick please let me know. i'm also after a decent set of 260z 2-seater door trims, mine were speaker-bastardised by the previous owner and have no fabric/vinyl on them. many thanks. Kirby

yeah, i figured asmuch. im going for late 75 early 76 in my estimation. Which works for me. because there were two series of 280z's with the latter starting build in 7/75. So i know what parts. As for supply, kinda. Im getting full body rubbers, glass channel rubbers, front door sealing rubbers, quarter window front seals and door sill/scuff plates. A lovely $650AUD before shipping, and unknown to me at the time (and not metnitoned in the VB cat) when i went to place my order they cant send me the 19pc body rubber kit due to frieght restrictions. I have no way to contact them thorugh email, so i need to get a intl. calling card and call thier number to see if there is anyway we can organise freight for the parts. Any one with similar experiences?

I have, they have only some of the parts i need. There are some bits and pecies i have looked around for VB seems to be the best place. any ideas how i can figure out my manufacture date/chassis year from my vin? or should i just go with '76?

Hey, i just got a catalouge sent out by victoria british, I was looking at getting a complete rubber seal kit. however when looking at the different parts and the different models, i came across a problem. My car as far as the ADR plate is concerned is a 2/76 model, however victoria british shows that my car VIN (010105) is actually a 1974 build chassis numbers (8/73 - 000001 > 8/74 060000). Or so I am lead to believe. Here (http://classiczcars.com/forums/printthread.php?t=16323&pp=40) suggests that there were two different series of chassis numbers for LHD and RHD cars.That is a LS30-010105 (LHD of my chassis #) could and would have existed aswell as mine in the RHD (RS30-010105). Which means there could have been an offset for production years for RHD models, making this lookup table in this catalouge incorrect. Its all rather confusing, i just want to know what year I should be buying parts for... is there a different manufacturing year to vin in countries with RS30's? did both LHD and RHD cars share a vin series? what year was my car ACTUALLY built? what year's would be acceptable to buy parts for to match my car (thinking door rubbers here *there were minor changes apparently*)? HELP!

Hmmm, my car has its factory plate like the picture I posted. And the ADR near the battery on the firewall. the other car had the factory plate in the same place, but the ADR on the wheel arch underneath it. so it appears that the copliance plates were on both the drivers side and passenger sides of the car. not that it matters, just curious.

the ADR is the aluminium rectangular one (i want to know the proper possitioning of this one) the factory plate is on the bracket on the passenger side strut (near the battery) like this one here.

Hey, I was looking at this Z for sale the other day (2+2 260z) and when going over the engine bay i noticed that the australian compliance plate was in a different place from mine. The factory plate was in the same place, near the battery. So then it got me wondering, was this car correct or had it been moved (eg painting/rebirth???) or is mine incorrect. anyone got any photos of the location of the australian ADR compliance plate in thier car to remove my paranoia? cheers

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Howmuch for the guages? you can never have enough guages. Also, i must ask, do the clocks have a habit of dying? mine stopped working the other day after my battery drained out. it was working fine before then.

The heater system is getting a complete overhaul. the cables that adjust the water flow valve (or whatever its called) dont function, and when you switch the lever all the way to the left, and the flap should open up on the back of the fan blower unit should open. it doesnt. Im gonna do this right the first time. As for the dash loom i'm gonna return as much wiring as i can back to original. theres some patching, for example some of the GW leads are patched into the RL power line. I pulled out the wiring diagram and set this bad boy up on a peice of wood with a soldering iron, heatshrink and a mutimeter, nice little project to keep me busy.

I just gave up and pulled the dash out, and removed the speedo and tacho the reverse way. Im also cleaning up the loom and replacing the heater hoses. Probably better this way.