Miles

If you haven't already done so, go to the HybridZ website which is devoted to doing all kinds of v8 swaps into the 240Z. Also go to the Jags That Run (JTR) website and buy the appropriate manual for the V8 swap you are doing. Read the JTR manual several times. There are three companies that make install kits: JTR, Motor Sports Auto (MSA) and John's Cars. Each has pros and cons that have to be considered. With a V8 you will need to consider upgrading the brakes and suspension. There are many brake and suspension swaps available. The HybridZ website brake section has a comprehensive brake swap section that you should look at if you plan do do any modifications to the brakes. MSA and Arizona Z Cars both sell brake upgrade kits. There is a lot of good information on brake systems here on Classic Z. Do a lot of research and planning before you take the car apart. Make a detailed parts list with cost for each part you will need. This will force you to plan the build and give a realistic cost estimate for the build. I spent four months developing a build plan and buying parts for my 240Z V8 swap. The swap took eight months and went smoothly. That was two years ago and I have fun, safe and reliable daily driver. As you modify the car the changes will have a domino effect which can bite you later. Planning will help you build a reliable car that is fun to drive and not be a death trap. At HybridZ be sure to read all of the rules before you post questions and use the search function.

As John mentioned there is the hydraulics thing. When I installed Toyota 4x4 calipers on the front of my 240Z I had to also consider that they require a larger volume of hydraulic fluid. The stock MC is not matched volume-wise to the Toyota calipers which results in longer brake pedal travel. In this case the recommened solution is to replace the stock MC with a 1979 280ZX MC which is a direct bolt on, but does require some adjustment of the push rod lenghth to work with the 240Z booster. The 280ZX MC gives the right pedal travel, but with a little more brake effort required due to the larger piston in the 280ZX MC. It is all about balancing the system as you make changes. Currently, I have the Modern Motorsports (MM) Toyota 4x4 calipers with 300zx vented rotors on the front and MM 240SX disk set up on the rear. These modifications eliminated the brake fade I experienced with the stock brakes and the hassle of adjusting the rear drum brakes. For street driving they are adequate. There are pros and cons to all of the various brake mods. Do lots of research before making changes as there can be unintended consequences when modifying a brake system. There is a lot of good information here, HybridZ and many websites that deal with 240Z brake mods. MSA, Modern Motorsports (Canada) and Arizona Z Car sell brake upgrade kits.

Go to the brake section of HybridZ. They have a 'sticky" or "pinned" post in the brake section that covers just about every brake upgrade that has been done.

There are a number of good posts here and at HybridZ on Autometer gauges. Note that the Autometer fuel gauge will not read properly without calibrating it with some resistors. There are several posts dealing with the fuel gauge calibration at hybridZ.

I didn't want to take a chance of rivets scratching the glass so I used heavey duty weatherstrip adhesive. I coated both surfaces of the strip and the door panel and let it tack for 15 minutes, applied a final wet coat of adhesive and then positioned the fuzzy strip and held it in place with clothes pins. They have stayed in place with no trace of separating from the panel.

I just replaced the hatch with all new Precision seals on my 240Z after painting. I have replaced 240Z hatches before and never had a problem, but this time the hatch sits high such that it doesn't line up with the body. Looking under the hatch from the rear I can see light between the rubber seal and the hatch. The top of the hatch lines up with the roof, but the aft end of the hatch surface sits above the body line about 1/8". Could it be the Precision inner and/or outer seals causing the problems? Any ideas? Speaking of seal problems I had problems with both MSA and Black Dragon hatch seals. The channel for the SS center strip was deformed in the corners on the MSA seal and too wide on the Black Dragon seal. I eneded up buying an original seal from Courtesy Nissan which fit perfect. I believe that MSA is having the seal maufacturer make up new tooling for the hatch seal.

I just did my fuzzy strips from MSA and used some super weather strip adhesive instead of staples. Be sure to align the fuzzy strip to the top of the panel-not too high or too low. Pre-glue both sides and let it tack partially. Position the strip and hold in palce with clothes pins spaced about one inch apart. I let it sit for a few days before I removed the clothes pins. It works and there are no staples to scratch the glass. Also note: completely remove any rivits or staples before you glue the fuzzy strip to the door panel or they will cause all kinds of problems installing the strip and when you install the panel on the door. I used a dremel with a cut-off wheel to remove the rivits/staples.

MSA sells the clips. They look original, but I had to form them a bit so they would fit into the receiver hole. MSA also sells the rubber receiver grommets.

I had my door panels re-covered with a foam backing. Problem is the window crank now drags on the new material. Eventually the window crank will scratch the material. Is there a window crank that will fit and provide some clearence between the crank and the panel? Thanks Miles

Solved the problem. There was no power at the red and white wire on the TS switch. So I took the switch apart and cleaned all of the contacts. Both rear TS now work. For the right front I knew I had power at the turn signal switch. So I pulled the RF TS/Parking light harness connector apart and pushed it back together firmly. The RF TS now works. Thanks for your help Miles

When I tore the car down for paint I took all of the light housings apart and cleaned the lenses and the light sockets. I may have messed up the front socket. Dave. On the TS switch, is the right rear WB or WR. I have been squinting at my Haines schematic for hours. Also, there is a single green wire on the TS switch that I can not find on my schematic. Any idea what the green wire is for? Thanks Miles

Fixed RR marker light. Right front and right rear turn signals (TS) do not come on. Right front TS does not flash when hazard switch is on. All other lights flash. Green turn indicators on tach flash for right and left turns and when the hazard switch is on. Right indicator is brighter than the left indicator-always been that way. Brake lights work. Oposite brake lights come on appropriately when the TS switch is engaged for right or left turns. So the TS switch is working as for brake function. Questions about TS switch check out: -Should there be voltage at Green/Black wire (R. Front TS) when TS switch is in right turn mode? -Should there be voltage at White/Black wire (R.Rear TS) when TS switch is in right turn mode? Thanks Miles

I just received my Retro radio kit and the face plate marked "240Z" is too big. Miles

MLAW I noticed that your shock towers are not carpeted. Does the C&H carpet kit come with shock tower carpet? Is your carpet loop or cut loop? Thanks for the pictures.

I called Chester and Herod today and they are sending me some carpet samples. I asked about their website and was told that it is being worked on. I asked for pictures of the full 13 pc kit, but pictures are not available. I forgot to ask about molded kits for the 72 240Z. I am not sure how that could be done since the foor is broken up in so many non continuous areas. I would like to see more pictures of the C&H kits if you guys have any. MSA is also working up a complete kit for me in gray loop and sent me some gray samples. They have a complete kit, but it is only available in black.