dat260

Hi SteveJ Iam curious about your solution.

The primary stock coil reading is 1.6 and the secondary is 13.55. The new coil C-632 is, primary 2.0 and the secondary 9.68

I got it from RockAuto.com its a Spectra Premium C-632.

Thank you, I will check that. If it does not cure my tach problem then I will leave it alone. The car ran fine with the original coil.

Iam using the factory ignition system. Its has points and electronic ignition, I think. I know it has an electronic box. Whats a ballast? Is it the white ceramic block or the little cylinder connected to the + coil?

Thanks Steve, I wont work on my car til next week. Looking forward to your reply.

Hi Zed Head, I got a new coil because mine was all rusted and it looked like it was leaking at one point. The car always started fine but my tach started to bounce and now its pinned a 10k and it does not move anymore. When I tested the primary and secondary it was a little below the factory specs.

Iam in the process of installing an new ignition coil that came with its own white resistor block. It has a wire that goes from resistor + to + on the coil. My issue is that the new resistor as two attachment point were as my original resistor has three attachment point. (Early 74/260Z). The original connections goes like this; the small cylinder (condenser?) is connected to the + of the coil than a blue wire from harness goes to coil negative. White/black wire from resistor negative to + coil Black/White wire from harness goes to + resistor Black/Blue from harness to its own pole on resistor. Black wire from harness to - resistor to positive coil via white/black wire. (Black and White/black connected together at the resistor negative). My question is how to I attach all the wire to the new coil and resistor which has only two attachment point? Thanks in advance.

Iam in the process of installing an new ignition coil that came with its own white resistor block. It has a wire that goes from resistor + to + on the coil. My issue is that the new resistor as two attachment point were as my original resistor has three attachment point. (Early 74/260Z). The original connections goes like this; the small cylinder (condenser?) is connected to the + of the coil than a blue wire from harness goes to coil negative. White/black wire from resistor negative to + coil Black/White wire from harness goes to + resistor Black/Blue from harness to its own pole on resistor. Black wire from harness to - resistor to positive coil via white/black wire. (Black and White/black connected together at the resistor negative). My question is how to I attach all the wire to the new coil and resistor which has only two attachment point? Thanks in advance.

hey guys, So, I spend the whole day on the car. The car starts right up with the fast idle screw and balance screw completely open and carbs are synced. I adjusted the float again but this time to the 70/71 specs. I ran the car until warmed and no overflowing. Now what I need is a tach so I can finalize the tuning. I also received today a new coil, hoping that will fix my RPM guage but Iam having issues installing it. I posted in the electrical section. Thank guys for your input.

!!!

That's correct Mark

Thanks 240/260/280

Thanks guys, I will tackle this issue my next day off. I found out my carbs are from 70/71 series. The float specs are different for those years. Stanley, my needle valve does not have a rubber tip and the tip is rounded. I also cleaned them last time they were out, needles and banjo fitting, they were dirty. The problem Iam facing now is that Iam running out of bowl gaskets. Everytime I open the lid the gaskets warps. It took two weeks to get them from ztherapy. Can I install the lids without gaskets? I appreciate your input

Thaks Stanley, do have a picture of this setup? Well today was not a good day, I wanted to hook up my choke cables. I started the car and 2 minutes later the rear carb started to overflow AGAIN. I don't know what else to do. The floats are adjusted to specs, and carbs were cleaned. Is it possible that the floats should be adjusted differently. The spec I used was 14mm with the float cover inverted. Iam going to try to set the carb to the 70/71 S.U specs.

Hi Stanley, Do you have S.U dome carb? What is "sightglass"?

Hey guys, A little update. I spend the whole day adjusting the valves. The exhaust valve were loose and the intake were tight and what a tedious job!!! The valve noise I had before went away, the rear carb does not overflow and they are synced. The spark plugs were black, I cleaned them up. The car started right away without the choke. Now I need to hook up and adjust the choke and get a tach so I can finalize the adjustment. Went for a little spin and I noticed under load there seem to be a little starvation going on. Speak to you soon.

That's very kind of you, thank you, let me know. Everything is like it was before the rear carb started to overflow. The only problem is that I played with the adjustment screws instead of just replacing the gaskets bowls, my fault. I will check the plugs and I also notices the header tube coming from cyl 1 is reddish in colour compare to the others. Do the bowl pivot a little? While I was changing the gaskets I notices the bowls were slightly turning. I need to check how they are attached to the carbs, maybe thats were the hissing sound comes from. Anyways, I going to play with them again today and see what gives.

Sorry, I should of mentioned it, dome. thank for the reply btw, nice car!

I had an overflow issue with the back carb (closer to firewall) I change the gasket and adjusted the overflow lever. Overflowing problem solved but runs bad. Did the same to the front one and adjusted the overflow, both overflow were off by a lot. I followed the FSM to adjust and sync the carbs, went for a drive and it runs terrible. Sync becomes off after a drive. I noticed when I plug the overflow tube on the front carb nothing happens but when I plug the overflow tube on the back one, it stalls. I also hear a hissing sound coming from the back carb. Iam getting discouraged, I spend two days playing with them. I would appreciate some input. Thanks in advance.

Thank you for that booklet

Thank you for those links. So basically all entry/exit holes that are use for liquid under pressure are bspt threads (water and oil). Everything else is metric. Appreciate your time.

Are all the threaded holes on the engine block and head BSPT threads?

Thank you zKars for your help. Is this what I need? Lot of 2 x Brass Adaptor Fitting 1 8 BSP Male to 1 8 NPT Female | eBay

I found this guy here in Canada, he's expensive. British Standard Pipe Tapered Threaded BSPT Adapters from Cole-Parmer Canada