cj71z

O.k I got to work on the Z today. I changed the fuel filter cause it was kinda dirty. I cleaned out the banjo filters and readjusted the float levels to around 14.5mm from the top on the metal on the float to the recessed area inside the float cover. I also advanced my timing to 15 degrees. I ran the car at 3000 rpm with the vacuum advance on and adjusted to distributor to get around 30-35 degrees advance. I also bought some staight 20w from the auto parts store and changed out the carb oil. I started her up, readjusted the mixture, this time a little rich and went for a drive. She ran fine on the street until I held her in third gear at around 3k rpm for a while then it happened again. She just died on me, when I pressed the gas it sucked air, but no acceleration. Now I'm thinking definately a fuel issue. The mixture on the front carb seems to change lean on me if I jab the throttle then check it shortly after. According to what I've read when you lift the piston 1/16" the idle should rise then fall to normal if the carbs adjusted correctly. If it rises and stays high then it's rich and if it stumbles then it's lean. I'm thinking about running a inline FP guage to check the pressure going to the carbs. I think it's supposed to be between 3-5 psi, is that correct? I'll check the lines to make sure there are no kinks, but is there anyother way to diagnose other than making my own air/fuel mixture guage with an 02 sensor to find out what's going on? Thanks for all the help everyone, I'd buy you all a beer if you were here Chris

That was my first thought yesterday. I'm going to try to get them dialed in, clean the banjo screens and get a new fuel filter. This will help with the fuel flow better to the motor. When this happens I pull over and my rpms drop down to like 200 then gradually increase back to 800 where it idles. If my timing was off wouldn't the car go back to idle when this happens if I put in the clutch? Thanks Chris

E racer, what's your timing set to? I was at 10-12 or so, then retarded it when I went to 30w from the ATF. Advancing it will keep the power in the higher gears under a load? I'm assuming that bad fuel flow from a dirty fuel filter would result in my mixtures seeming to change as the fuel pressure wouldn't keep the float bowls full at all times. I probably have a couple of problems that need fixing. Hopefully I'll get a chance to work on her this weekend. Thanks for all the help everyone and keep the advice coming Chris

If it was the timing wouldn't I have problems accelerating in all gears? I've read on here of three different timing settings; 7, 10, and 18. What are your cars set to? If I cruise into fourth and leave my foot out of it the car runs Ok, then if I punch it she bogs again. I'm going to change the fuel filter and check the banjo filters. I've read somewhere that early Z,s came with an electric fuel pump near the tank, is this true? I had ATF in the carbs before, but changed it because I thought the carbs were leaning out on acceleration. I'll post my findings when I get a chance to work on her. Thanks Chris

I spent all day tring to get the car running right. Finally when I thought I got the mixture and timing correct I took the car out for a spin. She accelerates hard through third, then when I shift to fourth and hit the gas she seems to drop dead. Starts running real rough, makes a gurgling noise like it's choking and even if I floor it I can't get anymore speed and even start to lose speed. When I pull over the car drops RPMs like it's going to die, then eventually the idle comes back and the car runs like it did before. I'm thinking this is a fuel issue, but I'm not sure. So far this is what I've done: Electronic ignition w/ E12-80 timing set to 7 degrees. Rebuilt SU's w/SM needles, 1 small vacuum leak on each carb at the bushings for the butterflys. 30W oil in piston dampers. Adjusted the mixture according to directions I found on this site, but I seem to have a problem with getting it perfect. Whenever I think it's right it seems to change on me. I could adjust it all day and it never seems to stay in the same spot. NGK's gapped to .040 are a nice tan color when I check them Gas tanks been relined, cleaned and full of gas New mechanical fuel pump Any help would be great...I can't wait to feel her full potential Thanks Chris

Thanks for all the input...Ecp it sounds like your going the same route as me, keep me posted on the results when you get it installed. I figured that the amount you move your mount depended on the amount you lowered your car. I've heard people talk about JTR, but never looked at it myself. I think I'll consult it before making my final decision. Thanks Chris

Tom I think that if I raise my pivot points the tie-rods should then be relatively similar to the stock position. I think the bump-steer spacers moved the tie-rods down too much resulting in my situation now...Once I'm done I'll definately get an alignment to correct anything going on. I read on Hybrid Z's that people seem to move them 13/16 to 15/16, seems like 7/8 is a good average. Thanks Chris

I'm not looking for more negative camber so I wasn't going to move mine out. I haven't experienced bump-steer because it's a project and I haven't got to take it out for a good drive. 240ZX, how much did you lower your car? Mine is about 1.5 lower from the ST springs. I put in bump-steer spacers first, but now my tie-rod is rubbing the inside corner of my 14x6 rims. I figure I'll go with the cross member mod instead. I want to finish this so I can drive it :disappoin

I wanted to see if anyone here has repositioned their control arms on the cross member to get rid of bumpsteer and roll center. A guy I talked to said he drilled the new hole 7/8in above and 1/4in out from the original. He seems to think that's correct, but doesn't really remember. I want to get some more opinions before I do this. This is pretty much a daily driver, but I enjoy driving it hard. What have you done and how does it work for you? Thanks Chris

That's rubbing in the same palce as mine... I bought these used and now I see that VB sells them according to wheel size. Maybe these are for 15in wheels? I have a new cross member that I was going to modify to permanently solve the roll center and bumpsteer problems. I was going to take my time on it, but I guess it's going to have to be done soon.

I lowered the car 1.5 inches with lowered springs, then I put everything back together and had no problems. Yesterday I installed some bump-steer spacers, put it back together and proceeded to go for a test drive. I heard a loud grinding noise from the front. It seems that the passenger side tie-rod end is now rubbing the inside corner of my 14x6 inch libres. Has anyone had this problem before? To the best of my knowledge the rims aren't bent as my parents were the original owners of this set. I have totally redone the front end(ball joints, tie-rod ends, urethane etc...) The new tie rods are exactly like the ones I removed previously. Any ideas??? Thanks Chris

I swapped by brakes for the Toy 4 pots and the 15/16 master since my stock one was bad anyway. I first installed the master with no adjustment to the pushrod length. After I bled the system for an hour I still had no pedal so I adjusted the pushrod length about 1/8 inch or so. I thought this would be enough, but I still had a soft pedal and my brakes engaged low. Yesterday I adjusted the pushrod nearly another 1/4 inch, put it together and now my brakes are firm. My pushrod is nearly adjusted all the way out now, I thought it would be too much, but it seems to work great.

Bambikiller- What brand of paint did you use when you got your Z repainted? How close of a match was it to the original mix #918 Orange from the factory?

I was driving home from work in June and passed these guys in Benicia heading to the show I guess. He was following the blue 240z being towed. The car is beautiful, I'm going to paint mine the same color when I get to it. It's like a life altering event seeing Z's like these on the road, I'll never forget them.

Hey thanks for the responses, been busy with the holidays and stuff. Finally got to work on the Z today for a good 4 hrs. Daddz, I looked at the wheels when I got them... On the back is stamped the offset +12 and a production # 88. Is that the year they were made? Also where can one find the early center caps you spoke of? Curtis240z, thanks for your response. Exactly what I was looking for a measurement from someone who has a similar setup. From what you said the clearance is approx 1/4 inch with 225's. I'm thinking of going with 205's up front and 225's in the back. What does everyone think? 73skyline, thanks for the offer... I have a set of Libres that I'm probably gonna sell anyway. I'll clean up these enkies, try them out and if they're not exactly what I want maybe I'll talk to you about your set. Those Epsilons are sick rank up there with SSR reverse mesh. Too much money for me right now

Thanks for the help everyone I'll go fix it on thursday...

So by that formula the calculations for a 215/50 r15 leaves me with 7.5mm which is a little more than 1/4 of an inch... Does anyone have 215/50 r15 and if you do how far does the tire "bubble" out... Thanks for the help

Does the "zerk" act like a grease resevoir? If it does where can I get one? I would rather have something functional than just a bolt, but I need to cap it to keep dirt out. Any thoughts... Thanks

I've seen pics of the 92's and they appear to be flat where the lugs are. These seem to have a small square where the lugs are. Check out the bottom left rim in the pic. Any info on tires? At +12 could I run 225/ 50 r15 or should I stick with 215/50 r15 to clear the strut. Thanks

Enkie Wheels I just won these wheels off ebay. Anyone know what model enkies these are? They are +12 15x7 I was wondering if it would be better to go with 215/50 or will 225/50 r15 fit? Thanks for the help

While I was rebuilding the front end I removed the steering rack to replace the bushings and paint it. Stupid me I forgot to remove the plastic grease fitting and it broke off :stupid: Anyway, does anyone know where I an get one? I checked Victoria British, MSA and they don't carry them. Danny's Datsuns quoted me 25$ for one. I was thinking about just putting a bolt in it for that much. THANKS

Hey everyone... I'm new here, but been cruising around learning alot. I just finished my teardown on the rear and my pass. side came out easy. Drivers side was harder, this is what I did. I took the B.F.H and pounded one side with the nut on to protect the threads. While pounding "like a maniac" I wrenched the pin around and around with the ratchet like I was tightening it. Finally it popped out. Just thought I'd share my experience as my first post.