cj71z

Hey guys I'm putting in a new cam and to figure out my new lash pad height I took the difference between the base circle of my stock cam and of my new cam, this came to 2mm. I then added 2mm to all my lash pads and came up with the figures. The problem I'm having is that motorsport sells these in specific sizes which aren't identical to my calculated needs. My question is should I error on the larger size (ie. round up), or on the smaller size (ie. round down). Seems that the difference between the two will create a .15mm increase, or a .9-.11 mm decrease in height from the position the mechanic set it at which was at .30 mm of lash(cold). Thanks for the help

I have about 126k on the stock valvetrain. This engine has never been gone through so the orig seats and guides are still in the head. I originally was going in to fix the burning oil problem from the stem seals, looks like I'll be doing alot more than that.

The noise came worse after my last valve adjustment. Now all valves are at spec, but it clatters like crazy especially after I drive it for a while. It's interesting that people say to use new rockers because I've found posts on other sites claiming resurfaced rockers work just as well. I'm thinking about taking it to rebello for the seats and guides and doing the cam setup myself. I'm assuming that if I resurface my rockers all I'll need is new lash pads and a cam. MSA sells lash pads for 50$ for a set of 12 and webcams sells regrinds for 160$ All together I figure about 500-600 dollars total. On the other hand I've read that valve clatter is natural, since the car seems to run fine would it be ok to continue to drive it like this, or should I get the work started to stop any further damage.

I was wondering if I get my head rebuilt with new seats/guides and seals can I just reinstall the old lash pads since I'll be using my old cam and rockers? I'm assuming that this return the wipe pattern to the way it was or am I misleading myself. My head has some serious valvetrain clatter, eventhough I've adjusted the valves. Since it makes so much noise, when I get it rebuilt should I just replace the entire valvetrain?

Thanks for the info everyone. So it looks like the best bolt on replacement is the E88 or else get my E31 rebuilt. I don't really want to lose performance, I am curious about the gains of the larger valves. From the looks of it my compression would drop from the low 9's to the high 8's using either the E88 or the N42. What kind of difference would this really make in the drivers seat?

yeah I'm from the east bay to be exact, here we have cool AM temps, but sometimes during the day it can get 100+. Going to take off the metal fan when I get the setup I just won on ebay. I've been kinda worried since I changed the waterpump because the fan has a little play. If the vibration is from the fan then hopefully it'll disappear after I change it out.

i recently changed the trans oil about 2 months ago, and I don't see any leaks so I'm assuming it's still full. My trans makes noise when at idle with the clutch released in neutral. This sound goes away when I depress the clutch. Does this sound like the TO bearing? I'm going to replace the fan and the clutch in the near future with the plastic one. Beandip have you ever heard of loose valves causing a vibration? The last thing I did before I let it sit was to adjust the valves. I followed the directions and all were at hot spec. Now my valves are clacking pretty loud, but I heard they can get like that on an old head so I didn't worry.

water pump and alternator are both new, I am concerned about the fan clutch, but wouldn't it make continue to make noise no matter what the engine speed? This sound goes away right when I pass 2500k. Can loose valves cause this? I thought I read something like that on Zcar.com, but can't find the post now. I was also thinking about the harmonic balancer, do you physically inspect it to see if it's separating or do I have to take it off? The one thing I forgot to check is if the sound goes away when I engage the clutch at 2500k. I'm thinking that if it does then it could be the TO bearing.

Well my car sat for a month and when I went to go to work the other morning while I was accelerating I heard a new noise that wasn't there before. I took it out today and figured out it happens at 2500 rpm no matter what gear. I get an odd sound(a low drone), and a slight vibration I can feel in the shifter, and the pedals. Any ideas? I know my throwout bearing is going because it's making noise, could it be getting worse?

Just went and measured. I put the Suspension Techniques, and left the struts which were replaced just before the car sat for 10 years. Not sure of the brand, probably KYB. Anyway riding on 205/60 r14 the car sits 25.5 ground to top front fender well and 24 for the rear, from ground to bottom of front rocker, 7 inches; and 6.5 for the rear. The ride is good, just a little stiff(also have Poly all around), sometimes it bottoms out on big bumps

Thanks for the response, how does the L24 feel with the N42? Little better performance, more power? I know it won't be alot of money, but I found a rebuilt one for around 250$. Since I'm planning on going the F54/N42 route in the future I'd figure I would pick up the head and use it for a while instead of putting money into the E31.

1) From the transmission tunnel a sort of constant wooooossshhhhhh noise. Could this be due to transmission fluid? Haven't really checked it out yet, might be a good idea to check it. -I also have this problem, Does it go away when you engage the clutch? If so then it's probably the throwout bearing. I would also check the tranny oil because if it's low it could be contributing to the wear. Change it to redline MTR and it'll shift alot better. 2) From the rear, maybe differential, a constant low whine I'd say describes it. Also, haven't check any fluids in that. -Mine has a low whine, but it always has since I can remember. I think it's common in these cars. Check the oil, if it's old change it.

So I adjusted the valves the other day and now they're really loud(clack, clack), figure I have too much play from this old head and probably need to tighten it up w/ new lash pads. I also know I need new stem seals, seats and guides because they're originals. Now to my question...I'm looking to buy a rebuilt head so I can swap it because I don't have alot of time for a machine shop. So I was thinking about either the E88 or a N42. I have the orig. L24 which still has great compression, so I figure the bottom end can still go a while longer. Has anyone ever used a N42 on a L24? I know the E88 is a bolt on replacement, but I'm looking for a little more performance and I figure that the larger valves of the N42 will help out.

Be careful when you take out the bolts because if they break off in the block, like one did for me, you gotta take off the timing cover to remove it. Oh yeah and if this does happens don't use an "easy out" tool because if it breaks off, like it did for me:stupid: , it's a pain in the arse to get it out. Other than that it's an easy job, one day tops

Second this opinion...Maybe it'll have a retro price tag:laugh: I just drove a 350 last night for the first time and I think it's a great car. Maybe a little too 21st century, but the mechanics are unbelievable. It's fast and handles great, but I personally like the stripped down, bare bones style sports car like the S30. I think the S30 with the power of the 350 would be the perfect match. Now I need a second job to build a nice, L28 turbo or stroker

Arne-I'm using lead additive because I still have the original head and I don't believe it's ever had the guides/ seats replaced. I don't really have the time or money right now for a machine shop.:disappoin Zthing- Did the sediment turn to powder when rubbed?

I'm having a suspicion that my lead additive I was using from redline is reacting with the gas causing insoluble sediment. Recently I drained and cleaned the tank because of sediment that I thought was rust, found no rust. I put it back together, clean gas, filter etc. ran for a couple tanks with no additive, then I put it in for about 4 tanks. I checked my filter last week and it was full of this same sediment(brownish/red chunks that when you rub turn to powder) so I changed it, haven't run lead additive for 2 tanks and the filter is still nearly clean. Anybody ever had this problem before?

Had mine for about a year and a half now. Bought it back from the guy that bought it from my parents who were original owners. It was sitting for 10 years, 5 of those in a field! I hated seeing it rot in the field so I towed it home, put it on jacks for a year while I fixed what I could to make it road worthy. It's basically stock with some minor mods, nothing crazy. Been driving it for about six months regularly, fixing whatever breaks as I go. This car is great, fast and fun for 35 years old, not to mention it gets decent gas mileage.

I've been dealing with this for awhile as well and what I finally decided to do is disconnect my vac advance because at cruising speeds it would over advance. I had mine set at 8 degrees with the vacuum connected and it was still detonating. Now with it disconnected I run about 15 degrees since my dist mechanically advances 17 degrees. This now gives me a total of 31 degrees advance. Other threads here describe the different mech. advance rates avance rates available on these distributors. You can find out yours by checking the stamp on the shaft where the centrifugal weights are connected. Take this figure and double it and you'll have the total mech. advance for your distributor. There are ways to recurve the distributor for more initial advance, but still retaining vacuum so the gas mileage doesn't suffer. Rebello can do this for 70$(I think), check their website. One way to figure out your total advance is to get an adjustable timing light and shoot the timing with your car at 3000k. If you google timing mark calculator, the first hit is a website where you can enter figures to determine the placement of a mark at a specific degree. Find the place for 32 degrees, mark it. Crank your car to 3k, shoot the timing and adjust your dist until the mark lines up with the pointer on the timing cover.

I recently cleaned out all my hard lines, installed new fuel hoses, new filter, removed the screens, etc, basically cleaned the whole fuel system. Also I checked my compression after my valve adjustment. I'm curious about my valves possibly being out of adjustment. Maybe I got this backwards, but I'm thinking that if it's lean that the intake valve would be too loose(not openening enough to let in fuel). Wouldn't a tight valve mean that it never fully closes all the way. My fuel pump idea comes about because sometimes at highway speeds when I try to accelerate it feels like it's starving for fuel, this doesn't happen all the time though, and never causes it to stumble, just not as much power.

I've tried the colortune before and it showed all were running rich(yellow), couldn't really get them to reach blue so I tuned it by ear. The compression is good, around 170 across all cylinders and the plugs are gapped at .35. It burns a little oil due to bad valve seals, but generally runs decent. Sometimes it feels like the car is starving a little under accleration, but other times it's fine. Wondering if more fuel volume from an elec pump would feed the carbs better under a load.

I pulled my plugs today to see what color they were and I noticed that #1,2 and 4 were white while the others were black. My question is what could cause this? I recently adjusted my valves, it's got a new fuel pump, plugs etc. Timing is set around 8 degrees or so and the carbs are balanced. She idles nice at 800 rpms, and I'm running an e12-80 out of a ZX with an alt. conversion for more juice. I could understand that 1&2 could be slightly lean because they both feed off the same runner, but #4 has it's own and it's lean, I'm stumped. Any ideas out there?? Thanks

I had a similar problem with junk in my tank I thought was rust. It turned out to be the fuel sender unit had corroded and when I filled it up after sitting for 5 years the corrosion fell into the gas. I also had the problem your having with your floats overflowing. When I took the gas tank out I flushed it thoroughly, cleaned the fuel sender, redid all the fuel tank lines(no leaks) reinstalled it with clean gas with a new fuel filter. I still had a problem and traced it down to junk built up in the small fuel hoses between the nozzle and the float bowl. I cleaned these out, now she runs great. The thing I realized is that no matter how much you change the filter, if you don't have CLEAN gas the needle valves will most likely get stuck closed(fuel starvation) or open(flooding). The entire system needs to be cleaned thoroughly. Spend a day taking it all apart and redoing it. If I had done that first I wouldn't have wasted so much time and money on new pumps and filters. Chris

I just completed this, but I bought my alt from kragens in october. I had the squealing noise so I turned it off and sprayed some penetrating oil around the shaft by the from bearings and through one of the small holes on the back of the alt. The sound went away and hasn't come back for a couple hundred miles so far.

Well guys nearly a month later and I finally got the bolt out. I bought one of those EZ out tools and the damn thing broke in the hole I drilled. What a bitch to get out. I'll tell you beandip, I'm with you on those. I'll never use it again, what a waste of time. Should've just use the helicoil in the first place. IMO, Anyone who reads this should stay away from the EZ out method. Thanks for all the help guys, gonna go back outside and finish putting her back together.