Tommo560

Dad and i were over after leaving the car in sydney from the stint at bathurst. check out my account page to see a lap of bathurst too!

its got koni internally adjustable shocks with king springs. it handles rather well for all of the stuff i do (street, track, motorkhanas) i hate the sunroof personally. wont stop leaking and it gets soo hot having the sun on your head in summer, i also dont like the way its really obviously tacked on. something that folows the contour of the car would be better.

there we go. enjoy, sorry about the sepia.

you tube isnt working so no vids yet sorry guys!! you have no idea how embarrasing this is :stupid:

from a motorkhana i did on sunday. first vid is one of my early drift practice runs (so much understeer i could only turn in and then had to clutch kick it to get it to turn. plus its fun ) and the second vid is of my last run for the day. this is the first time ive ever drifted a car in my life and it was great fun. car: 1977 260 L28 over 60 thou flat top pistons triple webers (black smoke in first run is from bad tune )

ohhh... good question. now you mention it i think they are out by a little bit so we welded and re drilled one of the holes. i dont think its out by much. sorry cant be more precise but it was a while ago and i dont really remember, just that i took it to a cnc place and said fix it. whatever they did it didnt cost much, i remember that much. Justin: Yeah, Powder coated. flat black i think. looks great.

Theyre only 2-pots but they have about 2 times more pad area and much more powerful pistons than what was on the car (Toyota 4x4 4-pistons), so over stock, if thats what youve got, even over the toyotas, they would be a PHENOMENAL upgrade. Rather easy to fit. re-drilled commodore rotors to 4-stud patter to fit on the hubs and had to shave the suspension arm where the calipers mount down to a completely flat surface (they have a slight bump. about a couple mm i believe) and then used a shim to situate the caliper centrally on the rotor. not too difficult but not super easy. If youre not going to be racing it id honestly recommend the Toyota 4x4 4-piston and solid or vented rotors, much easier to fit and work fine. these were on the car and did a far more than adequate job on the street, the solid rotor just got too much heat soak on the track though. fine for sprints and motorkhanas and "street" racing but could be better for circuit racing, which is why i upgraded. the added bonus with these xr8/commodore brakes too is that they fit in under the 14" stockies had to use an angle grinder for one spot on one of the fins on one of the rotors that JUST touched but otherwise all good. **EDIT** the commodore and xr8 brakes are identical i am lead to believe. i also am told that these particular specimens are from a VN commodore, but they are however identical to the brakes on all models of xr8 and commodore up to but excluding the current iterations. i am not certain of this though so some searching for "commodore brakes" on this website and/or hybridz.org would probably be prudent.

Yeah were the fastest in class. that picture was from the vintage regularity last year which is coming up again in a few weeks. absolute ball of a time. im generally overtaking the back of the pack after 2-3 laps :devious: as for the black. Thanks!! most people seem to think the chrome looks better but personally chrome and silver was too much, and the black makes it look kinda stealth like so i definitely prefer it.

Cheers mate! yeah she sure is hell of a lot of fun either way. can get a bit tempting to do silly things on the road with the power though, but i generally manage to keep it to the race track *wink wink*

Car: 1977 Datsun 260Z Owner: Tom Whitfield Purchased: July 2004 Power: Chasing 200 RWHP (153 RWKW). Should have figures once i find a dyno day when the cars not in an event or off the road (not often ) ET: Low 14 second quarter (different car, same motor ran a 14.3 a couple weeks ago) http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=whittie260 Interior: CAMS approved 6-point roll cage Momo Corse Racing seat SPARCO 4 Point Race Harness Momo Race steering wheel Re-trimmed seats and all carpets and mats All working and original gauges Red-back alarm, immobilizer and remote central locking Exterior: Custom modified front spoiler Custom installed 2 window sunroof Factory option rear spoiler Powder-coated black exterior trim pieces Rolling Stock: Race: Japanese 3-piece ultra light weight 15" race rims Dunlop 215/50/15 Type-R race semi-slick tyres all round Street: Original 14" Datsun mags polished and painted 195/60/14 Nankang tyres all round Engine Bay: Nissan L28 Engine block bored 60 thou Nissan P90 head shaved, ported and header flowed Gemini pistons Nissan l24 con rods Datrally 78 race cam Oversize valves Triple 45mm Weber carburetors MSD Digital-6 Plus ignition K&N Filters BMW gold centered harmonic balancer Oversized crankshaft bearings 2 1/4" mandrel bend tuned length extractors 2 1/2" mandrel bend exhaust, 3" resonator, 3" muffler V8 2-core radiator Mechanical: Lightened flywheel Re-lined Exedy super-heavy duty clutch (soon to be replaced with button clutch to handle power) Nissan 5 speed close ratio gearbox Nissan Skyline 4.4:1 LSD Custom stub axles Datsun 1600 drive shafts Ford BA XR8 2-spot front rotors and calipers, EBC green pads Nissan R31 Skyline 1-spot rear calipers and rotors, EBC green pads 15/16" Brake master cylinder Koni internally adjustable struts King springs Aftermarket sway bars front and rear Camber Kit Polyurethane bushings through-out Volkswagon H4 headlights ICE: You dont need a subwoofer with triple webers :twisted:

sorry mate dont know. i do know that they're for an rx7 and that you have to drill your own holes to get them to mount properly. just take in a pad you have and match the shape to one in the book, thats what i did.

mouth suddenly dry... pants suddenly gooey... that is one SWEET z. only thing i would do that isnt in those pics is to paint the front spoiler body colour. looks a bit out of place on such a meticulous looking car.

15!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! whoever bought that will be in stitches. thats one hell of a deal. hell if id had 15k lying around iwould have bought it for that!!!

Pics at http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v621/Tommo560/Datsun%20260Z/Toyota%20Calipers%20and%20Discs/

someone here in perth did a conversion to rb25det and i believe all up including purchase of original, body work and conversion, all the way through to compliance cost him about $25k. i'd say you'd be lucky to find anyone willing to sell an rb zed for any less than 20 for one in decent nik. probably easier to just scour internet sites, the paper, and the local club for a decent rust free article to come around and then buy a half cut and do it yourself. you say your an apprentice (mechanic i presume?) so you should have the tools and know how to do most of the work yourself, and z's and really very complicated. infact they're really very simple to work on. Tom.

Direct bolt on application. comes with EBC green pads (i THINK 50% pad left - will check) and black flash racing pads. HUGE upgrade over the stock items, fit in the standard 14" rims and are perfect for the street and even light club work (hillclimbs, sprints, autokhanas etc). no need for a new master cylinder or any adjustment to brake bias. simply remove the standard brakes, bolt these to the hubs using the same original mounting points, bleed the system and then your all go. can post pics if anyone would like. they came off the car in working order (upgraded to commodore/xr8 fronts and r31 discs on the rear) but have been in the shed for about a year so may need to put a rebuild kit through it just to be sure. $400 plus postage via any postage method to anywhere in the known world. payment via paypal, banktransfer, cod, probably anyway you car to pay. ive posted here because selling nationally is easier but if i dont get any replies i will move this to the general for sale section. Tom.

Have them and swear by them. they dont move under hard cornering (i race my car) and they make fine tuning the camber possible. i have modified the cross member so that the lower control arms are mounted out further and this allows for a greater maximum camber but the camber kit finished the whole thing off because it allows you to dial in the amount of camber you want and be able to have the EXACT same amount on both sides of the car which modifying the cross member alone does not alow. paid not all that much (approx $100 AU) for the ones i got and would have to say that if you are trying to fine tune the suspension on your car then dont look past them. Tom

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22269 Nissan Datsun Sports Owners Club 2007 national meeting at philip island at easter. Tom.

Well its been a couple hill climbs and a track day since the upgrade and the last time i was out i shattered my lap time by 3 seconds and i still only have street pads on the car!! the toyota 4 pistons were good but these commodore brakes are just FANTASTIC. anyone who is looking at upgrading the brakes for a performance/club/race application should give this upgrade a serious look. for the street on a mild/hot street car the toyota 4 piston brakes are still good but for stopping the car at high speeds like in a racing application you cant go past the commodore brakes. and they even fit in the stock rims!! sensational upgrade at a sensational price. ~$900 is the cheapest 3 seconds i've spent on the car to date. Tom.

the entry form has been out for a week or so now so who is going? my dad and i are coming along and we will be making the trek from WA. we'll be in a silver 260 (hopefully with lots of signwriting all over it) so let us know if you'll be there and we'll try to trak you down and say hi. Tom.

Thats some good advice Mr Camouflage, thankyou. its turns out the motor is already .04" oversized so i think we will probably go to .06" (87.5mm?). now we just need to find some pistons. Tom.

Just gone and had a look at the car and the engineering shop where the pistons where x-rayed says that they are worn and need to be replaced anyways, and they've scored the bore so i'll be boring the motor anyways. now comes the hard part, how big to bore it and what pistons to use. ofcourse i want to go as big as possible (why the hell not) so i was thinking 88mm is safe from what i have read (i believe that would raise displacement to 2.95 litres?), but then what pistons can i put in that will still keep the high compression ratio? chatted to a few z savvy people around here and they have all said that stock pistons will be fine so what have people used that has worked well for them? i believe the rods are from an l24 but i dont know for sure, will have to do a bit more investigating but for now work on the assumption that they are l24 rods. does anyone know how hard it would be to track down an l28DE crank in Aus or is it not really worth all the extra effort and cost and should i just stick with the crank thats in there already? Thanks, Tom.

I've seen a few articles that say 89mm is too big to go reliably? but like i said i have done a bit of searching but just cant find anything conclusive. Tom.

the car has been down on compression and i've just got it at the mechanics now and he said that the bore is worn a bit and it'll need to be bored. this means oversized pistons, but i have no idea what i need. i'ts currently an l28 F54 block, 2 mm shaved p90 head, some rods (prob standard, dont know), and flat top pistons. i race the car (read: spends most its time at 5000-6500 rpm) so i need some pistons that are going to be able to take this abuse, but i and my mechanic are not sure what to get. anyone got any good ideas? i am sure someone has done this before but a search proved fairly useless. I am in autralia so if i can get some stuff locally that would be good, but if it has to come from the us, thats cool too. price isnt tooooo much of an issue, they just need to be good lasting pistons, but i dont want to be spending thousands either. Thanks, Tom.

OK Obviously this brake upgrade was not high priority but I have finally fitted the brake kit ERMINIO had for sale 2 pot Commodore/Falcon front and R31 rear in place of Toyota Hi Ace 4 pot front and stock rear drums. The rear was a straight bolt up, pulled both axles and replaced the bearings because one was a bit noisy anyway, had to overhaul the callipers to get the hand brake operational, that's now set to go just need to connect the cables. The front was a bit challenging, it looked like I needed to build up the bottom of the strut with weld then grind it back down and drill and tap new locating holes for the callipers. I wasn't comfortable with trying to build up cast steel using welding rod as I'm told it will weaken the cast steel and can lead to it shattering, as the car is used in competition the thought of a front stub axle letting go under hard braking from 180+ks wasn't appealing so I looked around and finally came up with a guy who was able to mill the mounting face to accommodate the larger callipers and provide 7mm spacers so that the callipers are centred on the rotors. Even though I've gone from 4 pots to 2 on the front I have more than doubled the pad swept area and suspect the piston area is also increased as I now have greater brake pedal travel so will upgrade the master cylinder from 7/8 to 15/16. Driving on the street all felt fine the first real test was a motorkhana and with limited grip on the skid pan the brakes felt significantly improved but the fronts had a tendency to lock up much earlier than previously. The big test came at a tuning day at the local Wanneroo race track, for those who don't know the track it's undulating about 2.2 ks long its main straight has a down hill run into a 90deg right hander so brakes get a hiding I did a warm up lap and six or so semi hard laps on street tyres and pads braking from about 170ks and although I could hear the pads complaining the braking is dramatically improved on what I previously had with race pads and I could still achieve lock up with hot brakes and virtually no extra pedal travel. I wonder if I'll see a difference in my times :devious: Here's a vid from a recent club track day. Tom