Tommo560

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hi guys, old thread but i just got round to this tonight and i noticed that my motors are differant to yours. instead of the plate the wires go into a little box with a Z printed on it. does anyone know what this is and how i go about changing park with it? also does anyone know where i can get a new bag from? mine was and is now totally destroyed. cheers, Tom. *EDIT* also where is the auto-relay? the service manual says to clean these contacts but it doesnt have a picture.

latest update?

texasz that is one nice looking scarab, i love the kit he's got on it. Tom.

wheres the shoot? Tom.

thanks to alan and rosanne for a great collection of z info. scarab stuff here Scarab Tom.

that 260zt vid looks like he mounts the wall and puts it on its side. if you watch the camera movement and look and the damage on the left of the car, there is non, only on the front (would be more if he scraped the wall) which also suggests the car went sideways. Tom.

that is some seriouse engineering he has done to the suspension. my first thought was '11" rears? how did he do that with the stock suspension telemetry?!!" then i saw the pics. car looks nice but i'd have to say some of the shaving is a bit radicle and the car looses emphasis of oldschool sports car rather than modern ricer. i also have to agree that i'd be a bit concerned about the chassis and the important underbits of the car. Tom.

ok, thanks for clarifying that for me. Tom.

thanks. so heat soak just means the compound will "overheat" and not grip properly wearing the clutch out? Tom.

Clutch Heat Soak

i was having a look on a website at racing clutches and noticed that they were not recommended for street use due to low slip tollerance and that these clutches can suffer heatsoak in these situations. so, my question, what exactly is heatsoak and how is it caused and prevented, is it bad and can it ruin clutch life? Cheers, Tom.

considering what he has done the pics show that the work seems to be of very high quality. i dont actually mind the styling but i must say that the wing is a bit of overkill and that the circular tail lights look out of place with the lined of the car. you must remember to place yourself in this guys shows before judging him. i dont know him but chances are he's a younger guy who wants an old school car with some of the more modern "Ricer" styling seen on the roads today. personally i think the car is a very good compromise of show, go, old-school, and ricer. but on another note with all the money he has spent on the car why didnt he just by the mustang in the first place?!! Tom.

well i got some stockies, Stockie's and some lightweight 2 piece racing wheels, Racers which are currently undergoing a makeover. all the white had been striped and painted black, with the tops of the spokes and the dish highly polished. Racers Tom.

hey crash, your list is similar to mine except that minus the stroking and turbo related gear it all on the "done" list, i love the car, great compromise of streeter and competition car, cept i did it the cheap way and bought it all done. Tom.

yeah, fuel blow-by, aka oil catch can. its supposed to be used to prevent oil leakings and otherwise prevent any oil particles in the engine bay to be sucked into the induction. used mostly for show nowadays on ricer cars and for unneccessary oil leak prevention on racing cars. Tom.

radiator overflow? never heard of it before but it would make sense to have one so you dont lose fluid if you over heat it. and for show. is that what they're used for or am i mistaken, i cant really think of any other reason to have one. Tom.

looks like an oil catch can to me. if it is then it "Catches" any oil that would otherwise be discarded by the motor. these are required for racing to keep the track oil-free. Tom.

gotcha, so its just an age thing then. Tom.

yeah that makes sense to me. i have webers and this isnt a problem for me so maybe it is a carbie thing, but then again maybe not as my driving instructors car had the same problem and it was fuel injected?????? i dunno, well if the fix works then thats what maters isnt it. Tom.

i agree with bambikiller, i mean my lights still all work so that seems like a very good life to me considering they havnt been touched since new. Tom.

ok, went and did a thorough analysis last night and i have found that the problem lies in the contacts in the stack on the steering column, so i am off today to get some contact cleener and see if i cant fix this problem for good. Tom.

ok sounds good, cant wait to get something to fix some of the silly little niggling problems i have with the car. Tom.

do they fit a 260z? also i dont really want to do this as i am in australia and shipping will be expensive, not to mention conversion rates. is there anything i can do to get them brighter with out having to spend a lot of money? Tom.

hi everyone, i have seen this problem mentioned before where people have a problem where when their car is at idle the electronics dont work. i have this problem aswell, that things dont run off the batteries (e.g. headlights wont turn on again unless you turn off the ignition, blinkers dont blink etc etc...). i wanted to know if there is anyway to fix this without having to do a major car overhaul, i mean is it simply an issue of contacts or is it more complicated? i also have an odd problem where if i push the "Pass" button before the headlights change to high-beam (which takes forever) my "Shift light" on the steering column (after market part) lights up. i'll have to take it apart and have a good look at it. Cheers, Tom.