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$16,100 is way undervalued from how the car shows in pics. Maybe it's the recession, maybe it's just well bought, but I think it should've been sold for more. Hope it's just a fluke.....

These are dated 9/75, but are the same size as those from 1973. 5Jx14. I bought them a few years back from the original owner, who after buying his new 280Z immediately dismounted the steelies for some aftermarket wheels. $100 plus shipping, if interested. I don't need them because I ran across a date-correct set for my 1972.

I don't think the trans weighs 140lbs, as I have easily moved them around during my resto...maybe 75lbs or so. Honestly they feel like they weigh less than the differential does. Hope the shipping isn't too much!

RB, Adding fuel at the level of the filter does not answer the question as to whether your fuel rail between pump and carbs is clear, at least that's how I read your reply. Not too common for those to get clogged, but it's possible. When you say your carbs are "dry" does that mean you checked the float bowls and there is no fuel? I've not heard of the fuel pump lobe on the cam going bad, but if everything else doesn't fix it, then.....

I advocated buying the FelPro gasket. I don't care where you buy it. The link from JLPurcell offers the same gasket for the same price, from a different website. FelPro gaskets work very well--much better than straight cork.

shorter, lighter, more powerful...more design elements from the S30. Much improved I'd say. Still not used to the lights, but if it performs like it should, that's be a small issue to overcome.

(raises glass) Glad to hear it's fixed!

Sorry to be off topic....I've had very good success with FelPro's rubber/cork valve cover gasket. Their oil pan gasket also does a much better job than the basic cork as well. Prices at RockAuto are $10 for the valve cover, $7 for the oilpan. So, if the neoprene doesn't pan out, maybe try that one?

If you move up to a bigger wheel size, consider the added weight of the rim and tire. More unsprung weight is bad for handling. There are not an unlimited list of choices for 14" tires, but enough to keep you happy. Remember, the tire technology currently available far outstrips the technology from 30 years ago, so almost any good to above average summer performance tire will do (the S30 is not a performance dynamo in stock configuration.) I concur with what Mr Coffey said. 195/60 R14s for track. Good performance, good grip, less expensive, lighter, and dropping your AR to 60 will effectively improve your final drive ratio for some extra pep off the line.

Both intake and exhuast valves are closed throughout the compression and power stroke, not simply only at TDC. TDC on compression can really be best determined by positively identifying the #1 piston at the top of its stroke when both valves are closed. The easiest way to figure this out is to place a thin wire through the #1 spark plug hole and rotate the engine by hand (rather, by socket wrench on the crankshaft bolt) When you feel the wire deflect with both #1 cam lobes pointing up/away, you're at TDC on compression. Because of the deteriorating rubber ring in your crank pulley, those marks may or may not correspond to anything, so don't trust them. Once you've determined TDC #1 on compression, paint a small white spot on your crank pulley where your timing pointer directs. That is 0 degrees, regardless of the tick marks on your crank pulley. Static advance is 7 degrees BTDC (IIRC), so adjust your distributor accordingly.

Yes. With the engine in the car, I've only been able to do it efficiently as a two-man job. Take off the distributor--you should see the tang, representing the top of the spindle. Use vice grips to secure the tang and keep it from falling off through the timing cover when the oil pump is removed. Take off the oil pump. Doublecheck the photos I pointed you too, to be certain the beveled edge of the tang is oriented correctly as well as the overall direction of the tang. It's easiest to move the spindle gear from below, so have a friend move it while you check its position from the distributor side against the photos (obviously, remove the vice grips prior to repositioning.) be careful, and get it exactly right. Off one tooth, and it'll still not run well. It takes some adjustment and trial-and-error, but you'll get it right eventually!

The rotor looks out of position if that's #1 TDC, should face more toward 7:30ish. Check your spindle tang orientation. Reasonable reference photos (post #22) can be found here http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28449&highlight=distributor+spindle As you can see, I've been in a similar situation.

When (after changing the oil pump) did the problems begin? You may want to doublecheck the distributor spindle tang orientation at #1 TDC to make sure it's correct, since you have replaced the oil pump (they both run off the same gear.) I know you think it's "never [been] messed with" but it doesn't take much to mess it up dramatically. Could you show us a pic of your rotor at #1 TDC?

Woo hoo! Excellent work! Glad to see the fix identified and easily repaired! Congrats

:stupid: What? You don't remember my stunning good looks, disarming charm and suave sophisticated conversation? I'm stunned...What we had was so--:embarrass: I keed, I keed....We've met a few times, but my attendance at meetings has been spotty at best--maybe 3-4 times in the past year. Mostly work conflicts. You haven't been there when I have been. I think the last time we spoke was after the Concours at Winston-Salem last year. Hopefully the Z will be sorted for the Triangle show in a couple of weeks. Some decals need to be done, some cleaning, little odds and ends...It won't win the show but it'll look pretty good!

Sorry I couldn't make it, I know there are some big time well-done examples in the Great Commonwealth. Obviously my loss, hopefully I can make it next year! Pics pics pics...please! Edit...Thanks for the pics link, Jason. Nice mix of stock and modded cars! Not too many S30s, though..

Hard to say....usually, if you think it's fuel-related the problem is electrical. If you think it's electrical then the problem is fuel! Since Arne has taken the fuel side I'll go electrical.... Wandering idle could be vacuum-leak related, or could be from an inconsistent misfire. Are you getting spark out of all plugs? Have you checked them recently for carbon buildup? Carbon deposits on the distributor cap? Coil specs within normal limits? I'm no E12-80 expert since I have Pertronix, so someone else will have to troubleshoot that side fo things. Backfiring (as opposed to afterfiring through the exhaust) could be from a lean condition, possibly from vacuum leaks or poor fuel supply. Double check floats/nozzles, choke mechanism for proper function as suggested earlier. Mech fuel pumps are cheap, so replace it if you haven't already or if it's old. Best way to proceed is methodically down one path (fuel), eliminating problems as you go. If that fails, pursue ignition issues and see if that fixes it. You said the timing is correct, could you tell us what your exact numbers are (crank angle/static and with vacuum)?

Well....IIRC Zsondabrain may be the BEST person to discuss them, but I could be wrong.......

http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=BK&PartNumber=6101075&Description=Fuel+Pump+(Solid+State+Cylindrical+Type) This is what I use. 4psi and rated right around 24gph. Very quiet, only audible when the engine is not running, and even then it's as quiet as the one on my M. You can run both pumps, but if you choose to bypass the mechanical one you may as well remove it and attach a block off plate.

That looks right to me. The black wire at the rear engine harness runs to a ground along the rear "frame rail" near the rear valance and gas tank. Tough to reach with the tank in place, but if you can it may be helpful to unscrew that ground, sand off the rust and reset the ground screw. I see no reason why you couldn't ground the pump separately, so that may be an option if the wiring looks suspicious. Here's a bad photo of the electrical diagram of the involved circuit. Hope it helps

I think you meant what does the GREEN circle go to? If so, those plugs are for the optional foglights.

Yup...the green is power/hot from the fuel pump. The black with white trace connects to the fuseblock and subsequently to the ignition circuit. See the 1973 FSM section BE-6, or see if someone can link a copy of the wiring diagram. I have also heard the Carter pump to be loud. The Facet pump I installed is faintly audible if you put the key in RUN without starting the engine, then is nearly silent once the system pressurizes. I also used several rubber grommets on the installation bolts to act as vibration dampers, and IMO it works very well.

thanks tuck...I forgot those pics were a year old! Since then I installed an inertia-type cutoff switch on the firewall, in line with the fused jumper....

whatever pump gets you 4 psi should be fine. flow rate according to the 1973 fsm is 1600cc/min which is right around 24gph. I bought a Facet pump from NAPA which works fine. I suppose you know already about the existing wiring. If not, here's the layout: 1) At the driver's side near the defrost panel and left side of the heater bezel is a random-appearing connector secured by blue tape. There's a green wire and a black with white tracer. Jump that with an inline 20amp fuse. This connects the fuel pump to the ignition circuit and (at least on my car) allows the pump to run on Start and Run positions 2) By the gas tank on the passenger side is another butt connector secured by blue tape, attached to the branch of the wiring harness near the fuel gauge sending unit wires. Green is hot, black is ground (already grounded near the rear of the body. I connected my pump to the rear suspension piece as depicted below.

It's only relatively flat after 3700rpm. Not much power before that, but that's not unexpected given other's experiences...If you can keep between 4-6k it looks to be a fun ride! Power drops off after 6k, which from what I've been told is not uncommon with standard bore roundtop SUs...next stop-Webers, right??? Hope you enjoy it! As mentioned above, please reinsert what you know of the engine specs so if someone searches for "Rebello dyno" or similar they will get all your info without spending days in Search Results Hell.