xray

...that's what I'm hoping for! I sent a copy of each to Banzai Motorworks, so maybe he can get some reproductions going for 1972 M/Y

I have been searching for correct replacement decals for my Z, and thought I found one for the 1972 emissions decal from Zeddsaver...But, my part number on the original is 14805-e8801 while the one I purchased is e8800. There's obvious differences in text, see the attached pics below. Everyone else (Zeddfindings, Banzai, MSA) sells emission decals for 1970 and 1971, but not 1972, Anyone know around what date they changed the part number? Thanks

My material was flexible and could easily be bent/flexed to slide through the holes in the inner door. Almost all areas of the door are accessible through the inner access holes. Naturally, you have to remove the window mechanism and window to get to the inner surface of the doorskin. Remember, the sound deadener does not need to occupy 100% of the surface area to be effective so don't feel like you did a poor job if you don't have it fully covered. I covered about 75% and have a satisfying "sportscar" sound level that still allows for normal-volume conversation. It would be very tricky and ultimately of low yield to apply your sound material to the inner door next to the interior panel. Putting it on the outer surface of the inner door (a la the vapor shield) could cause fitment issues with your door panel. Good luck!

That is not the recommended wiring for a 1.5ohm coil, but should work for a 3-ohm coil. Did you use the link I provided you? If in doubt CALL Pertronix. They are quite comfortable answering your questions.

Mike, Glad you got it! If I may ask a question...was it repainted? I see overspray on the front strut caps (I thought they were black w/o paint). I know it's small in the grand scheme, but I was curious.

Look just to the left of the valve cover on the third pic and you'll see some discoloration at the level of the firewall/driver's frame rail. Prior to disassembly, my Z's hatch hinge screws had red overspray from a 25-year repaint. On removing that paint, there was no lime yellow, only plating. I think the hinge screws were cad plated, not stainless, but one of the concours-type folks would have to confirm.

It looks about the same condition as mine, which is not a #1 car. I think it's closer to a 3+/2- on the SCM value scale. As mentioned before, too many little items to make it competitive at ZCCA nationals in Stock class, but a strong challenger in DD class.

Go to the Pertronix website and look up the technical info there. If you have a 1.5 ohm coil, you need to run the correct ballast resistor or your coil will overheat and/or burn out your Pertronix unit. If your coil is the 3.0 ohm one, then no BR is required. I found my car ran better with the BR and 1.5 ohm coil, but my 3-ohm unit was used and maybe a little "iffy." Search for Pertronix in the forums, and you'll get a lot of info. http://pertronix.com/support/manuals/default.aspx

In my short time of watching the auction scene, it seems to me the Palm Beach crowd is a bit more reserved than the folks who bid at Scottsdale. Probably still too early to make conclusions, but from the early auction reports in SCM and Classic Motorsports they seemed sort of surprised at how much is still holding value. They did remark on seeing a lot of cars not meeting reserve, and the value of clones and "tribute" cars falling (as they should). No doubt that as the economy slows the interest in spending money on old cars will probably wane as well. Looking forward (?) to seeing the auction results....

...the cause of the problem usually is the action most proximate to its occurrence... If you just changed the wheel cylinders, and now have a brake light coming on, I suspect the problem lies there, not in your prop valve, booster or warning switch.

I like it....I sorta followed the "weight-balancing" issues after last year's runoffs, and it looks like the changes have helped some. 3/10ths off a track record is pretty good for 35-year old technology. Guess we'll know more when some Mazdas show up, right? I'm no expert on oranges, but the photos make it look similar to the Chrome Orange color for the Elise/Exige....Looks sharp!

Ron, It costs much less to get an engine and trans than to pay someone $50-75 or more per hour for body and paint. I can do better than guesstimate since I just completed a restoration, and I know you'd be getting a significant bargain starting at this point. I can say from experience that the heavy financial lifting has been done (if the reality matches the pics). It's quite easy to find a drivetrain for substantially less than the cost to do the bodywork (just ask the hybridz folks) I figured I'd get flamed for posting the listing since it's not for the purist...

All the hard work's been done! Looks like a great platform for a modified Z--Just add drivetrain. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-Z-Series-240z-Datsun-240z-1973-Great-car-for-collector-Mint-Body_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6187QQihZ013QQitemZ230234513307QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

Ha! Probably not, but they did probably go to the same training program....:tapemouth

Thanks for the install and pics! Looks good, but I'm a little bummed about not having a Z emblem on them...However, if in an accident I would be even more bummed if/when my 30+ year old belts gave way and allowed me to get shish kabob'd on my steering column. Thanks again.

...ah the optimism at the beginning of bodywork. I remember it well! 8-10 weeks was what I was quoted. Then eight MONTHS (and 100% over estimate but 30% over budget) later my car was back home. I hope you do not have the same experience. BTW, you're very lucky to have Rebello near you. It's like the Sahara here for import engine rebuilding...

Like the video! I like how you were revving up past 3k in 2d gear as the 30-mph speed limit sign went by--Felt like I was on the drive with you... Hope it helps sell the car for an even better price!

Arne, Thanks for making contact...I'm waiting with cash in hand for a decent carpet set. In re padding/jute material--weren't they placed separately (non-glued) for the floors and rear deck? If we have just the carpet, without any underpadding, we can add the padding on our own as we see fit..ostensibly waiting for a supplier to surface with near-correct horsehair style jute. Might make things easier with you your supplier Zup, That link doesn't work...too many https http://autockm.com/

Hey Randy, Here's a good example of "truth in advertising" although I wouldn't word your car's ad quite the same way.... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1965-Porsche-911-Very-ugly-and-rust-free_W0QQitemZ170200259900QQihZ007QQcategoryZ10156QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

corrected I stand...doh! Must've been thinking about the other 4-cyl cars in the discussion (914, 924 etc)....

Just to clarify, the first Ferrari (1947 tipo125 Sport) ran a 72hp V12 hopped up and supercharged for the 1948 F1 season... And don't give too much credit to Mitsubishi for the 944. Your post makes it sound like they developed the entire engine, when the fact is Porsche paid Mitsubishi a small royalty for their crank-balance design..The rest of the engine was derived from the 928 ...but I digress....

From the PCA, the phrase was first turned in the late 60s in reference to the 912. Then later applied to the 914, 924, 944, 968 and Boxster. Basically, if you couldn't afford a 911 you were labelled "poor." BTW, what was ill-fated about the 944? Beautiful lines, good power, exceptional handling, 50/50 balance and solid 8-year production run that converted to the 968 in 1992, ran until 1995 when the Boxster was introduced in 1996. NASA has a vibrant spec944 racing series with a lot of serious racers involved. Maybe you just meant the 924 was ill-fated? Additionally, the Ferrari 246 Dino was also referred to as a "Poor Man's" Ferrari. After all, it only had 4 cylinders and was (gasp) mid-engined! Of course, nowadays not many poor men can afford a 246....so they buy the next iteration of the PMF--the 308. It's not 12-cylinders, so it's not a Ferrari, right?:sick:. The irony of the "Poor Man's Porsche" be it the 912 or the 914, is that good examples are nearly (or greater than) the value of some 911s. Additionally, the 246 Dino regularly outprices Testarossas and the occasional 512BBi!

Car X is a "Poor man's" car Y. It's an overused idiom to refer to Any car that nearly equally performs a more expensive version of that car within the same class. Cayman is a poor man's 911. 240Z is a poor man's Corvette/Porsche/whatever. Implied to be derogatory, as it suggests the owners of the "poor man's" car can't afford the ultimate...

Hi Randy, Sorry to see the orange Z go....making room for another project? If I were a potential buyer I'd want a few more pics of the battery area. Despite the corrosion, It looks pretty solid from what I could see. But sometimes there's some rot right where the inner fender meets the frame rail and firewall, and some pics would help assess that area better. Other than that it looks like all the bases are covered. I like the undercarriage pics. I would consider ditching the "240Z" mats, as they look worn. Maybe go with just the carpet if it looks better. Since you have a half dash cap on, if it's not permanently attached consider just removing it and taking a pic as the presumption is that the dash is already cracked (hence the cover). Best of luck, Steve

Arne, Yes, I'm talking about the notches cut into the rear edge of the deck carpet where the straps are attached. My original carpet was long gone when I got it, so I wasn't certain how the front straps were attached through the carpet (individual holes or a longer slot). Based on what was described, my 5/72 probably had holes for the front mounts but notches cut into the rear part of the carpet. The photo of the carpet kit on MSA's website (and in the catalog) used to depict those notches, but the pic has been removed from the site. Edit: Thanks for posting those pics, Westpak... How are those front clips attached to the carpet?