xray

Nice to see another lime Z in NC! Looks great, especially seeing imports among the muscle car/hot rod crowd...BTW, why the SR20 and not the RB26--pretty obvious $$$ was not the issue. Don't know much about the swaps, so forgive the implied ignorance regarding fitment issues between the two swaps. Hope to see it out and about by November! Are you in the Triad?

step back, take a deep cleansing breath and let's reset. I had this same problem, as mentioned above. If you have a new master, new slave, solid pipes and no leaks in the rubber flexible tube, you're set. What you need is to generate enough hydraulic force from the pedal on the rod of the master to transfer force to the slave which engages the piston, moves that rod, then the fork then the clutch....The master and slave I have (1972 MY) are adjustable, and I think you have too much free travel in one or both such that you can't generated the correct amount of pressure. I've attached pics where my adjustment nuts are located--perhaps this could be a starting point? The pic SBlake provided shows that the pedal and rod are on the same side of the lever's fulcrum, so you want the length on the master cylinder rod that generates the most pressure and travel. Start by shortening that rod, then check to see if you can squirt fluid out when you pump the pedal. Then turn your attention to the slave and make adjustments there until you get good clutch engagement/disengagement (after attaching the master to the lines, filling with fluid, bleeding etc.) You may have to go between the two to get it right, but stick with it and be patient.

similar problem...same solution I echo the above sentiments. I replaced everything in the clutch hydraulics--master, slave, steel line, flexible line--on my 240Z restoration and still had no pressure until I used the old rod and got the linkage adjusted correctly. Don't toss in the towel if putting on the new parts doesn't immediately solve the problem. Some adjustment is required....

Steven Carter, MD Raleigh NC 1972 240Z

How hot is hot? Anyhting that makes you say "Daggum, that's kinda hot!" probably represents a problem. My car's ignition (Pertronix, OEM BR, Flamethrower 1.5 ohm coil) does not get more than warm, even when driving in a hot day. I think most of the time a hot coil means there's too little resistance between /in the coil and the main circuit, as if you were running a 1.5ohm coil without a ballast resistor. Have you checked the primary and secondary resistance on the coil? Is the ballast resistor wired in correctly? Any idea on the coil's specs? Folks who have done ignition mods may be able to further help (like Dave, aka Zsondabrain).

Yes, sounds like the float valve is stuck closed. Here's a fun test.... remove the float bowl lid completely. Turn it upside down. Attach some flexible tubing to the fuel supply port. While blowing on the tube actuate the float manually and see if the valve opens and lets air through. Float level is determined by the distance between top of the float and underside of the float bowl lid. Adjust the float level by bending/straightening the metal tab attaching the float to the valve. Check what ID number you have for the carb itself. It should read something like HJG46W something. If it's R8 or R9, rear float level should be around 12mm (1972 rear carb) and front carb should be 16mm. If the last few digits are R3A or R4 (1970-1971), then float level should be set to 14mm.

Randy, Is the vacuum port for distributor vac advance plugged? If not, it Might cause a vacuum leak and poor running...Your vac advance on the distributor is disconnected, that may cause probs down the line. The other emissions stuff can come off as mentioned earlier, just plug all the ports so it doesn't leak. PCV valves can be ordered from Rock Auto, MSA, BD etc. The hoses can be bought on Ebay, MSA and others... The two black hoses come from the evap emissions system along the driver's framerail. One hose (the lower of two exiting the valve on the driver's inner fender) goes to the crankcase, the other goes to the air cleaner. If they vent to atmosphere you'll be fine, but I would incorporate the crankcase port into a filter arrangement to keep dirt and debris from getting into the block. I reconnected mine. PS...Is that an N36 intake? I don't remember those small holes along the top of the E36 and E88 intakes, but they were present on the N36 I installed on my F54/P79. I closed those with some JB Weld, thinking they could be a source of leakage.

Des Hammill's "How to Build and Powertune SU carbs" is indispensable. http://www.amazon.com/Build-Power-Tune-Carburetors-Speedpro/dp/190370698X/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1222911299&sr=8-1 amazon says it's out of print, but check MSA and Ebay Monroe's "How to Rebuild..." book: http://www.amazon.com/Rebuilt-Your-Nissan-Datsun-Engine/dp/1931128030/ref=pd_sim_b_3 Honsowetz's "How to Modify..." book: http://www.amazon.com/Modify-Your-Nissan-Datsun-Engine/dp/1931128049/ref=pd_sim_b_4 All excellent reading. Buy them from Black Dragon, MSA, amazon etc.

Hi Marc, Thanks for the compliments! It was an enjoyable job, for sure. Not sure how many hours--it's easy to lose track of time doing what I like! I got almost all my paints from Eastwood, although I bet most are available locally at auotmotive paint shops. Steve

Don't forget to account for lost height due to the track of your garage door. If it hangs down 18-24", in an 8-9ft high garage space you probably can't open the door with a car raised on the lift. You could if your ceiling height is 10-12ft or (in a lower-ceiling garage) your door gets very close to the ceiling when in the open position . Or, your door does not open vertically....

That's some faulty logic there, similar to saying "All the green cars predeontated, therefore green paint causes predetonation." Were they running hot? Too many other factors (ignition, ignition timing, fuel supply, compression ratio/head mods) can contribute to predetonation. IIRC, triple Webers' intake manifold are not plumbed for coolant, so there's that aspect as well. I've run my car on a dyno without issue. I've driven it in 90+ degree heat, also without issue. I think it's fine to reconnect it, but not an absolute necessity. I would make sure though, regardless, that the coolant connection at the back of the head remain in the circuit. Would you show me where it's stated that the purpose of those pipes is to COOL the fuel/air mix? Every other setup I'm aware of that pumps water into the intake is to help with cold starts and improved atomization of fuel/air mix. My position was confirmed when I spoke about it with ZTherapy, but I could've misinterpreted what they said. Thanks.

The universal mufflers will fit/flow in either direction. http://www.dynomax.com/ecat/pdfs/superturbo.pdf (Top of page 2)

Randy, Sorry, I'm away from home so this is mostly from memory....If you re-plumb the pipes to/through the intake, IIRC you also have to reconnect it to the thermostat housing, so confirm you have the correct housing first. I would suggest not connecting it, and just keep the heater hoses connected as you have it currently. I have a similar setup (N36 intake) on my L28 which is not warmed, and I have no cold start issues.

The tubing and piping to the carbs is for manifold warming, felt to help with cold start and (IIRC) may improve emissions by shortening the amount of time the engine has to run richened by the choke. The "pulley" and its hoses are emissions equipment that can be removed, but should be blocked off at the manifold/balance tube to prevent vacuum leaks. The second pic shows a branchpoint where water is diverted behind the block to warm the intake manifold via the tube in the first pic. You can disconnect it from running to the intake, but don't plug it completely or it'll cause problems running water to your heater.

What...you don't like the nice new ventilation ducts time and rust provided you??? Do some searches here for "gas fumes," "floorpans" and "clunk, rear end, diff mount". While the problems you describe here seem to you as major (and from a cost and "surprise factor" they are) what you have is a typical 30+ year old unrestored Z. Bottomless pit? Not really. But it's pretty deep, and without a good flashlight the bottom can seem waaaaay down there. New floorpans plus install is around $800-1200, maybe less if you have a friend who welds. Oil leak=new gaskets. Buy "How to Rebuild Your Nissan OHC Engine" and an FSM and DIY. Great learning experience Fumes? May be combo of exhaust and vapor recovery system leaks wafting through other rust holes you haven't found yet (hatch, rear wheel well etc) Only you know what you can afford. If you like the 280 IIRC 6-8K will get you a very nice car, even a good driver 240Z, especially on the WestCoast

My M Roady and Z have to share space with the wife's Odyssey. Today they got to stretch out a little when she went out for some errands...

Ooooo.....so envious....25 x 50...seven cars....doh! I need a wider lot.

I used a ratchet -style box end wrench, and worked from under the intake manifold. Some I could reach from above the manifold with an extension and universal. After a couple days soak with penetrant they came off pretty easily. There's typically one that gets left on (seems like it's the one hidden under #6, or blocked by the thermostat) so if you think you've got them all, double check! Oh, and headers (particularly if coated) add no significant heat, and minimal engine noise. Good luck!

I thought about the RX-8 for awhile, then went to the forums, rx8web.com and rx8club.com, and they don't seem too happy with the purchase. Still having to replace motors, still get poor mileage (19-20mpg or less), but the price is right for those with used in the 14-17k range. I'd include the BMW 1 series, the Subaru WRX or STi, the Mazdaspeed 3, a Pontiac GTO (or even new G8). E46 M3s are getting lower in price, too... I guess some of it depends somewhat on your price range

If you're going to go through so much effort (and expense) with custom pistons, you may as well do an 0.080 or 0.120 overbore and convert it to a 2.7 or 2.8l displacement as your link dictates above. The hybridz folks say to turbo the motor because the cost associated with NA builds is disporportional to the benefit. Given the DIY/grassroots vibe of most members there, it makes sense. I like your ideas though--someone here went that route a couple years back. Search for "rebello" and see what turns up. Good luck, and post dyno numbers when you get finished!

There are many choices in tire size for that wheel--you may have to fudge a little (195/60 R14 instead of 195/70) but that may be fine for someone looking for a particular tire. Hankook, Yoko and Hoosier make competition tires for 14s that IIRC are also 195/60. So your speedo reads little higher than actual--you've also got a little better ratio for final drive and that may help get you off the line a little quicker as well. Some may not find that a problem. I bought Sumitomo HTR4 from Sears back in January and have no complaints. Good ride, good grip, overall perfectly good tire for street driving. Remember, our little Z may be a sportscar, but it's a 35-year old car that most 4-door sedans can beat off the line and around a track with little effort. No sense putting high-po rubber on them unless you've got the power, suspension and aero mods to back it up. IIRC (racers correct me) Spec Miata, ITS 240Z and Spec E30 all use 14s, so comp tires are out there if you need them

Sorry, sort of off-topic...I noticed in some of the engine pics the fuel rail loops between supply and return. When did it change to the "block" format seen on later cars? Good find, BTW. Many serviceable parts there. After taking what you want, I imagine you could profit from them some after cleaning up and refurbishing over the winter, yes?

Both look like great cars, both well-priced with a 20% premium for "survivor" status on the 1971. Maybe some price deduction for the -uh- "unique" color that can be a detractor to some bidders. Not a fan of the spoke rims on the red one, but to each their own.

crackfree dash? Seems like a lot of valuable parts there for $1600. Someone local could flip some of those for a nice profit (nudge nudge) /looks at evilC

yikes... Carl, if you can't get reimbursed for THAT kind of damage without the hassle you experienced, I'd hate to go through more "minor" issues with them. I'm even more thankful now that mine arrived in one piece back in 2005...paid $500 then, so $600ish is a fair price.