xray

I applied Herculiner to the external surface of wheel wells, rear deck and floorboards after POR-15. Then the whole body was painted. I put SecondSkin's Damplifier on the passenger side of the floorboards along with some extra inside the doors and quarter panels. I doubt it will adhere well to a roughened surface, and if it did, the effect of the damplifier would be muted (ha!) since the surface area of contact between metal and dampenener would be decreased (less vibration -> heat transference) tha nif it was in contact with a smooth surface. $0.02, Steve

Why? Is there some mystery process wheel manufacturer's do that pro wheel restorers can't? If you're not willing to wait, this is a perfectly reasonable way to do things. More expensive, yes, but a viable alternative if someone is impatient.

What is wrong with getting the silver ones and having them powdercoated? IIRC, when I asked Les about them he seemed to imply that's what was done by the manufacturer.... Could be a good way to go if you're in a hurry. Steve

Sorry for the redirect.... If you're fed up with Fat Mat, I just installed Second Skin Audio's Damplifier on my floors, doors, quarter panels and trans tunnel. Quick shipment, reasonable pricing, lighter than Dynamat. Made with butyl rubber, not just asphalt, so there's less chance of melting, with similar sounddamping characteristics. It comes in 1 x 2 sqft sections that are easy to trim and stick very well to a clean surface. http://www.secondskinaudio.com/viewproduct.php?id_product=294 you can check my install on my picasa site, http://picasaweb.google.com/srcartermd FWIW, Steve

Hmmm...I think I've seen this car before. Is that oil on the swaybar, tied rod boots and front X-member? Undercarriage pics make suspension pieces look rusty, particularly rear control arms. Pic of dash from driver's side looks like a cap, but hard to tell. Would be nice if it sold for $18,500--it'd make my car look all that much better!

Where did you get brackets? I've been looking for some for a while now...Do you have the shop's name and contact info? Thanks, Steve

this pic of Ed's car should do...maybe? Where did you get them replated? Was it costly? Did you have to replace any of the nuts? Steve

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27418 See post #20. 15k buys a lot of car. If it were me, I wouldn't have sold it at that price...

Sorry to drag this up, but wanted to demonstrate on the car how the two seals I mentioned previously compare side-by-side. So..passenger side is Nissan OEM, driver's side is MSA/Precision "genuine" seal. Both were used with re-mounting the OEM welting. Both went on easily, no problems. You could probably tell how this ends up by looking at post #41...the MSA seal is just a little denser, and the outside flange doesn't have the same arc as the Nisdsan one does. Nissan seal allowed door to close flush with no effort (aside from a little door adjustment.) MSA "genuine" seal fit almost as well, but left some gappage at the rear bottom. Should compress enough over time. My conclusion is this: Balance your desire for door slamming and improper closure against your bank account, and buy accordingly. Nissan OEM is more expensive but worth it since the door seals and shuts correctly the first time. Steve

Thanks for the update. Sorry things have been slow going, but it doesn't surprise me that 35 year old rubber samples might be distorted! Keep it up, Steve

Didn't mean to...hard to keep last names matched with first names/handles, and I forgot to check profiles for full names....

Mark, Is that your race photography? If so, that's great stuff! Steve

Got mine today...lots of great info and articles. Definitely improving on an already great quarterly magazine. Keep it up! Steve

I've no idea if this will help or not, as I am not a Weber owner, but found this link with what looks like useful info.... http://www.teglerizer.com/dcoe/webertune.htm

Weird...I only post after searching..looked at threads about everything else..guess the spellchecker got me!

While working on my body/dash harnesses, door switches etc. I came across this part of (for lack of better terminology) the "courtesy circuit." Found it in my FSM as two "Step lamps" that (I think) light up the floor, in addition to the dome lamp, when doors are ajar... the wires are Black and Red/Blue tracer, taped up on the driver's side of the dash harness and at the front of the body harness... I haven't seen a 240Z with these installed...were they for later years? Non-US models? I thought it'd be interesting to wire up a small LED array (or something similar) and tuck it up on the kick panel since the wiring was already there.... Any thoughts? Thanks, Steve

36....still get that "are you old enough to be doing this to me" look when patients meet me. Got carded at Pep Boys--PEP BOYS!--when I bought some weatherstrip adhesive today...Sheesh!

....and you couldn't persuade him to offload it to you!?!? Oh, well. Maybe you put a bug in his ear and it'll show up in the classifieds. We all need more Z projects, don't we?!

I reinstalled with the longer flange toward the car (first with tape), and it fits perfectly. If you mount the longer flange toward the door (outward) it potentially will block up the door drain holes, which could lead to rust, etc. The longer flange oriented toward the car mates up nicely with the rocker sill, also. Unfortunately, I failed to take a pic before disassembly, which led to my confusion to begin with..Took pics of everything else, but not that:tapemouth...sigh...It's always the little stuff you figure you don't need photos of that end up biting you in the rear later on. Here are some pics for those who may encounter this situation in the future... Steve

Nice...a Smart FourTwo in the background of the head-on pic...

I've been searching for fuel pumps, and have noted several will show similar pressure readings, but at different flow rates (gph)... ...which flow rate is preferable for SU in our displacement range? Similar flow rate for triples (I think it should be maybe a little higher..)? Thanks, Steve

Beat me to it! Please post when you get them. The specs look about right. I have a set of old Ansa dual slash cut resonated tips (just like what I had back in 1987 on my 1973 Z), but the inlet is about 1 3/4...if these look good, I may have new exhaust! Steve

Like I said before, some people do fine, some folks have problems. Searching on hybridz and zcar.com shows folks having some problems with wiring. I suspect they may be using a turbo L28 distributor in an NA application or had issues with MSD or other aftermarket ignition components.. I'm glad you've had no problems--I'm just pointing out the need to be cautious. Not sure where the harm is in that. Pertronix costs what--$80 or so? Using the E12-80 costs you (1) the core, (2) possible rebuild of the distributor itself (3) possible replacement of the IC module (4) possible wiring hassle. Choice is up to you, obviously, but be aware that the swap is not without its issues.

...be careful with the 280ZX distributor swap...may cause your tach to stop working. http://datsunzgarage.com/engine/ "A 240 tach will not work with this setup. It uses a inductive pickup that isn't compatible with the signal from the E12-80. There are two solution: Replace it with a 75-78 280Z tach and connect the tach sensor lug to the - terminal on the IC module. If the tach jumps around, solder a 7500-10,000 ohm resistor inline with the sensor wire to reduce the signal voltage. If it still won't work buy a Autometer #3990 black face tach." Some folks report no issues with the swap, however. I did the Pertronix install just for this reason.

What about here? http://www.ansaautomotive.com/ansasport/listings/universal_tips.html Seems like the universal dual slash resonated tips might be worthwhile, in 2 or 2 1/4" diameter. No price or pics though...may require some investigation