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Mine took a deep socket to get it out. I think a 17 or 18mm...If I read the FSM wiring diagram correctly, the neutral switch is connected in the same circuit as the door and seatbelt warning switch and will set off the buzzer if you put the car in gear while not wearing your seatbelt (or if your door is open, I think. Been awhile since I drove my Z....) Good luck, Steve

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I'm looking for the little brackets which hold the brake/clutch/fuel lines to the firewall and frame rails in the engine bay, as well as the rubber pieces between the brackets and the lines themselves...What shape are they in? Anything better than "fragmented beyod recognition" is OK with me! Thanks, Steve

Arne, The first pic is of a manual trans--I don't understand the basis for your statement. Additionally, The 1972 and 1973 FSM under "TM" (manual transmission), step #6 under removal and installation states (paraphrase): Disconnect electrical connection for reverse lamp switch and neutral switch. The presence of both switches is confirmed in the wiring diagrams for manual transmission cars. My original 1972 4-speed, as well as my later 5-speed have both switches. I think it may represent a variation between series I and later cars. Steve

Off topic...Bruce, where did you get the mounting hardware for your brake/clutch lines? As you can see from my pic (didn't realize I double-posted, sorry!) mine are pretty well done for. Did you fab them yourself? Are they painted or plated? Thanks, Steve

The switch closest to the bellhousing is the reverse switch, and the one by the shifter is the neutral switch (labeled as "Stop switch" on the 1972 FSM wiring diagram.) Wiring comes from the engine harness right where it is secured to the passenger frame rail--a thin wire bundle should disappear via the trans tunnel containing two paired sets of wires. Just checked my FSM, the reverse switch wires are red or red w/ black trace, and neutral/stop switch is green with yellow trace. 1970 may be different. Obviously, both of yours are disconnected. You probably have a later 4-speed based on Bruce's comment, but I'm not sure on that one.... The switch comes out pretty easily with a crescent wrench (18mm, or thereabouts). The inner aspect of the switch has a spring-loaded plunger that is depressed by shifter's input shaft as it rotates when you shift over to the third fork, which breaks the switch and causes the lights to come on. Test the contacts with a continuity tester setting of your multimeter. If Continuity is broken by depressing the plunger the switch should be salvageable provided you can make clean wiring connections to the harness. You will probably have to solder on new wire and connectors after cleaning the contacts, and find some sort of rubber sleeve to protect it from road grime. Good luck, Steve

Hi Mike, Slightly ,off topic, but since CDM is interwoven in this thread.... I bought a bunch of stuff from Les soon after this thread started. Told him about the CZC.com reference, no discount for me. BUT, stuff shipped out pretty quickly. The carpet set he sells is cut pile, not loop, so be forewarned for those going for the authentic look... The seat sets and foam are top notch, and easy to install at home. I installed them on my old frames over the course of three sunny days. Can you do a short tech article on how you went over your wiring harness for those of us noobs who need to do a similar task? Let's see some pics of your progress, Mike! Thanks, Steve

Sorry to nit-pick....Just to clarify, NO ONE did a good job of rust-proofing back in the 60s and early 70s. British cars, Italian cars as well as American cars ALL have problems with rust, mostly in the same locations where debris and water layer dependently against poorly prepared or ungalvanized steel. (Just watch an episode of Overhaulin on TLC, DYI net's Classic Car Restoration, etc etc!) It is a ubiquitious problem in automobile restoration... With that said, the aftermarket (Zedd Findings, Tabco, MSA, Black Dragon, etc) has done a good job of supplying patch panels for almost every rust-prone aspect of the Z, with the exception of (as far as I know) battery trays, front frame rail/T-C bucket area and inner fender areas for rear quarter panels. BUT, we always wanted to learn metal fabrication and welding, didn't we? FWIW, Steve

Dave: I knew right off it was the first audio clip, because I had immediate palpable flashbacks to when my Z was driveable, then hunger pangs over when I can get it back together....Of course, the other sound clips didn't sound like 6s (except maybe #3) and most were automatic/manumatic transmissions, but the visceral reaction was sooo convincing for me. Well done! Car sounds great, looks great, and certainly keeps the Z profile up in the eye of the public. Great job! Steve

Haven't seen the ad, but if its body looks good and the price is right, could be a nice V8 project for someone. HP claims are usually meaningless, moreso in this case since it sounds like the car isn't even running... Steve

Very interesting work so far. I've used that Great Stuff on other applications (none automotive) and it is as advertised. How do you plan on replicating the grain pattern? Keep us updated! Steve

Red Dog: Wait---did you say cheap? 1) Triple carbs: $1800 rebuilt or $700 on Ebay plus $5-700 in parts to get it running right 2) Performance Headwork: price predicts quality and results. $1000 or more (Rebello, et al) 3) SUs: cheap to rebuild, $700 for refurbished. $850 for 50mm overbored ones. 4) OR, a 280ZX L28ET and accessories for $5-800. Give or take a few bucks. ...at least you saved some money on leaving the block alone... So, what does cheap mean to you? You have to understand that this is 35-year engine technology we're talking about here. It has inherent limitations which are expensive to overcome, especially if you try to keep the stock displacement and induction. Remember, HP is just a number for dyno queens and wannabes to throw around to look cool. You have to consider gearing, driveline inertia, suspension, and (wait for it).....driving skill.... when evaluating your setup. I think that may be what you're really after, yes? A fun car that you can go fast with, turn quick, control well, stop on a dime? I apologize if this sounds confrontational. Without altering the block or raising compression to 110-octane race fuel-only applications, anything above 200HP is almost impossible. To get the best NUMBERS out of this engine series, you have to be willing to go pretty radical. Stroke it out. Turbo. Whatever. Otherwise, be ecstatic with 205 crank HP. In a car which weighs 2400lbs (or less), with proper gearing, suspension, tires and skill you can do 13s at the drags and beat that Mustang in the turns. Good luck, Steve

(Slightly off topic) I don't think EBay threads are annoying, especially since I may not see everything that is listed...as I am trying to establish comp sales for my Z in re: collector car insurance, being made aware of restored Z sales is very helpful. With that said, car looks like a pretty good restore/refresh/whatever. Missing some decals, polished valve cover is wrong, interior doesn't photo too well. Would be nice to see some "process" pics as well. I hope it brings good money! Steve

Yes, Mark---quite nice indeed....Hmmmmm I wonder who took them:rolleyes:

OK...here in left field where I've made almost every mistake possible....My memory's a little foggy, but I had a front end clunk about a year and a half ago. After replacing my front suspension I replaced the front strut insulator and perch incorrectly. This caused the spring to slightly rotate, generating a clunk sound on turning toward the affected side. Not sure if that's the case, but it's the closest I can come up with what may cause a front end clunk. Bad Ball joints, tie rod ends and bad steering rack will cause front end wobble/vibration, wandering, shimmy etc. Stuck caliper will pull car to the affected side. Of course, check your torque specs on all front end bolts, especially the strut housing to steering knuckle bolts. I vaguely recall a post 4 or so months ago about this one guy (can't recall the exact thread) who had a bad experience on a trip when his bolts fell out on a curvy road...I think it may have made a clunking noise as well. Unfortunately, I'm not too much help with why your inner tie rod would clunk. In my recent 2-3 years experience with this car I don't think I've heard that problem. Sorry I'm not much more help. Good luck, Steve

Agree with all the above. I am using CDM foams, and have to "massage it" to get the foam to sit correctly since these are not 100% accurate. Since my original foams are mostly OK except for some blatant wear areas on the bolsters, I am going to see if I can cut some parts out to use as shims to make everything nice and neat. I am also using the original headrest because they seem in great shape and appear to fit better than CDM's... In re: sags and wrinkles....Humble's book mentions heating the covers (gently---don't smoke the vinyl!) with a heat gun or hairdryer so as to stretch and shrink the covers to conform better to the underlying foam. Steve

My 2 cents: 35 year old physician. Now owner of my second 240Z. I appreciate what Nissan is doing with their 350Z, being a fresh concept that appears directed more to the new sportscar buyer than those with a long enough memory to recall the S30. I'm glad it's been a success because it breathes some life into the S30 lineage, and has, in part, enabled the Skyline to come to America (still counting my pennies--looks like I have a long way to go....) BUT---I think the 350Z should have been more GT-esque. You know, long hood, tucked in round rear, smooth curve over the front and rear fender. (TVR is the closest I've seen recently to reflect those great lines....) RWD, 2 door, 2 seater for sure. Engine? I think an inline 6 with supercharger would be nice. Minimum weight-to-power ratio of 10:1 probably puts it at 300-325 depending on safety gear and such... Hey Larry---CAD us up some nice designs so we can at least imagine what it could be like to "reinvent" the Z.... S

So, car's about 75% stripped with self-etching primer applied. Should be done in the next two weeks, then it's time for body repair/bumping/filling etc. So far no big surprises, but it's still early in the "discovery" phase. The roof waves still look to be the biggest problem, but I feel a late surge by the rocker panels may make it a tough race. It's been a great interaction with the body guy so far. I stop by every ten days or so, bring some bagels, and we chat and shoot the breeze some. He knows I want my car done, but also knows that I know it will take some time. He's got a constant 5-6 other projects going, and being a 2-man shop, mine gets put off more often than the other bread and butter stuff. I'm keeping my fingers crossed for a late December completion, but March may be more realistic..... Steve

Welcome! Best of luck in restoring that 240Z. "wheelbarrow" is appropriate for most of these restos, but it may take more than one trip! Body and paint are the worst offenders, as many parts can be had for relative bargains, especially compared to old Brit sportscars, Alfas, etc. (Begin subliminal message) Cough, cough...If that Healey gets tired of waiting its turn, I know an interested party....cough, cough(end subliminal message) Again, we're glad you're with us! Steve

XelderX, Welcome to the forum! Good luck with the engine and body repair--the battery/firewall/fender/framerail rust looks daunting, but don't let it stop you from tearing into it and getting it done! Don't forget to check the local Triad Z Club--they've got lots of experience and are a friendly group of folks. We co-sponsor a number of events with them throughout the year...If you're not busy this weekend, the Triangle Z Club is having a Z show at Michael Jordan Nissan in Durham..we'd love to see you there! http://www.triadzclub.com/ http://www.trianglezclub.com/ Steve

Oh, I am not even beginning to disagree with you there. Early on, in a prior thread I don't feel like dredging for, I mentioned that the designers at TVR got it even closer to spot on with their Sagaris and T350 designs, even better than the GR-1 did....My point is that the "feel good" retro market doesn't support (at least to Nissan, as it appears from my perspective) Nissan reverting to the classic design (unlike the Big Two and a Half's attempt at cashing in on muscle car nostalgia) for the 350Z. They rather keep up with current market trends as they see them. Right or wrong, love it or hate it, the 350Z is a benchmark in its class for price/performance. Aftermarket, club and racing support is stellar and it's part of the tuner culture--all make for better bottom lines at dealers. Am I buying one? No, probably not. I didg the classic GT curves. And if TVR gets their act together, my Skyline idea may go out the window... ...8336...8337...8338...8339..how much does that thing cost again? Steve

HA! Yeah, HarborFreight specials...Great for pushing, pulling the empty Z chassis inside the garage--or in my case, getting it positioned for pick up to the body shop.... Back on topic...Don't get me wrong. My hood comment was a lame attempt at dry humor. The Z33 is evolving just like it should--dropping the better engineered VQ35HR engine in it is better for the Z line, and allows for even better FI options than already exist for the current 350Z. It'll compete with its current market much better, helping keep the Z from another period of "forced hibernation." I think we all agree that's in our collective best interest... Most here don't like the 350 because it doesn't "respect its elders." Fine. I see your point, and mostly agree. But why should it? It's not like early Zs are getting 6-7 figure auction tallies like 428CJ Mustangs, hemi Cudas or Copo Camaros...why would Nissan bring back a design now doesn't create/invigorate the nostalgia similar to the muscle car era? As for me, I'm saving my pennies for the Skyline....caught some spyshots posted on our local Z club website...the thing is lookin goooood.. http://www.trianglezclub.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=1174 ...8129...8130...8131...8132..sigh, lots more to go! Steve

...from the Nissan Product Show.. http://trianglezclub.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=1175 New hood for a better balanced VQ35HR...Looks like an S30 hood? Maybe? A little? Or just a toad with lump on its forehead? S

Not to threadjack too much, but I agree...although resale valuse are falling fast (like all Lotus cars), waiting could be beneficial. Then, there's always the Exige S.... Sigh....back to work... Steve

MMagnus, I don't quite have my finger on the pulse of all Zcar sales in the country, but your car is currently garnering a higher bid than many other stock "restored" cars I've seen go through EBay, so tell the Z "purist" to effoff unless he plans to pony up some cash. Sheesh, these cars are a lot fun but to get out of shape over a restoration on a "low-value" collector car like our Beloved Z is a bit over the top...Looks like you'll make some good money on the car, and I hope your midlife crisis is a fun one! Here's thought: Keep it in the family and buy a 2008 Skyline! Unsolicited advice in re: F cars. Avoid 348s. Loads of expensive maintenance and reliability issues, even for FCars. 328s are probably the sweet spot (price/performance) as timing belt changes don't require engine removal (unlike 308s) and they are a bit more reliable. If you go 308, get an early GTS (pre-1980, preferably fiberglas) or a later GTSi QV. If you can swing it, the 355 or 512 is a great way to drop some cash. In my research, it appears that doing undocumented work (i.e., not professionally performed maintenance) will most likely damage resale. Buyers are sticklers for paper trails, books/manuals, tool kits, blah blah blah. YMMV, of course. Best of luck, Steve