xray

Clarify? Are you talking about the bolts holding the steering knuckle to strut bolts? Those are pretty well torqued in, and I remember having to add a length of pipe to my 24" breaker bar to get those off...Man, that front end resto sucked... Steve

I went with NAPA, and would do so again. Bought some off Ebay, and one of the bolt holes was misaligned--ugh... After they've been on awhile, I noticed the began to rust. I'm planning on removing them, sanding off the rust and clearcoating it just to keep it looking nice... Steve

Ed: Great suggestion! I used the claw end of the hammer and it pulled off no problem...Thanks! Steve

Ahh..I remember fondly my front end resto last fall... here's a pic of one of the tie rod ends. and one with the original ball joint.... Sigh, those were the days. Now back to the scrapin.....

mriz: another option, but may be a bit pricey... http://eastwood.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=2474&itemType=PRODUCT&RS=1&keyword=tie+rod If you unbolt the knuckle from the strut, you still have the castellated nut and cotter pin to deal with, and they are torqued down pretty well in addition to extra corrosion/rust...I used the pickle fork and a BFH, and since it (the front end) was all getting replaced, smacked it with impunity! Couple BIG hits and it popped off. Just get real mad before you hit it! Steve

Thanks, guys...That pic is actually about 6months old (the dirt and grime have been removed). My problem, I guess, is leverage. Tried the screwdriver/mini pry bar method, tried the vise-grips (tips are too big--even the needle nose ones)--I just can't get enough bite to move it out. Any other tool options? Well, it's cold and rainy and the wife and kiddies are gone, so I've got all day to get his done....

Hey everyone.... Spent the better part of yesterday working on the undercarriage, with about an hour devoted to getting the ^%$& e-brake system removed. For the life of me I can't get these two spring clips off to allow the cable to come free. It's a little too narrow to get leverage from the side, and too high to get an angle from above. Naturally, Humble's book and the FSM don't mention any tips--has anyone run ito this? Any tips? Something obvious I've missed? Thanks, Steve

Well, the factory undercoating sucked major a$$, which is why a lot of our cars are rusting. So, in an effort to preserve the car in a (hopefully) better way, we add a layer of POR-15, then our primer/undercoat/paint. Maybe it's just a "belt and suspenders" approach, but after dealing with factory undercoating (and the rust which lay beneath) I want my effort to have some impact...we also POR the inside of rocker panels, doors quarter panels and frame rails, so maybe it's an obsession! POR is UV-sensitive, so it's better to topcoat it with something or it'll degrade over time. Maybe a lot slower on undercarriage parts, but not worth the risk for me. IMO, the hardened surface of POR is much too glossy to look right, especially on the undercarriage. So we put on some undercoating to give it a more "correct" appearance, while adding some sound/heat insulation. Steve

Zs-ondabrain, I think Shevets used "paint" to be synonymous with the POR-15 product that Ed used...if so, POR should have a tough time chipping off, and I would be more concerned about the undercoating separating from the POR...Since the POR is still firmly adherent, it may make some aesthetic difference or possibly some change in level of sound deadening, but shouldn't put the undercarriage at risk for rusting, right? I guess anything's at risk for chipping when hit by rocks at 60+mph though...

Hi Kurt: $58 is a good price--wish I had remembered to check there! I ended up getting them from MSA...

Wow...what an event---great finish! Who would've thought a Caterham and a 914-4 would take first and second!!! That was some nifty driving on Knapp's part (in the Caterham) to avoid the TWO wrecks that happened right in front of him....The lesson I take from watching that race is that survival is the primary goal, then just try to be in the hunt at the end--who knows where you'll end up! That dude in the yellow Prelude has got to feel hurt having led the whole race (by over 1 sec) then get brought back to the pack under the black flag, and knocked out on the restart.... I think the silver 240Z ended in fifth place if I saw the results correctly...

Edit: Sheepish grin...just searched the site a little more...they stock the 5/16 and 3/8 stuff which looks like it might work. Got a little too excited, I guess...

John: Thanks for that link! Looks like I may go that route for brakes and clutch... Do they make fuel lines, too? My fuel supply line and air line look thicker than 1/4", more like 3/8 or so while the fuel return line looks like 3/16"...do you use a different vendor? Thanks! Steve

I interpret the phrase "under hood sticker" to mean the sticker on the passenger side of the hood near the cowl which lists emissions/tune-up information. This ticker is available at Zedd Findings for about $21. BUT...There is also a different "hood" sticker listed for the 1970 model only for around $30. I don't know the difference... I have a factory service manual which references various stickers as they need, based on the section of the manual. One could also find this info (sticker location) by examining cars competing in the stock class at a local Z car show... Steve

OK, first thing---TRUST is an issue which can easily separate you from your money when it comes to buying old cars.... It is NEVER rude to inspect a car thoroughly, especially when it involves a Z car and the words "rust-free." Sorry to be dogmatic, but if you're spending 8k, you deserve to know EVERYthing about the car, good or bad.... "All original" 1) Check the plate on passenger fenderwell of engine bay. It has VIN and engine number printed on it. Engine number is along back edge of block on passenger side right at the head gasket. VIN is also on driver's dash and driver's door jamb. 2) Dash should be all one piece. Some have caps, so be sure to look for strange seams, creases. Clock should have the word "JECO" on it--don't sweat it if it doesn't work. Speedo should begin at 10 mph (earlier models started at 20mph) 3) Seats should have four metal round vents along the lumbar region 4) Shock towers and trans tunnel should have diamond vinyl pattern--no carpet. 5) Original paint? Check the spare tire well, typical overspray in fenderwells and undercarriage. Should be a code decal on passenger side rad support. Info for decal paint numbers is on Zhome.com. 6) Engine: should have all the emissions stuff, including smog pump. 2 domed carbs (SU-type) should be present with an orange air cleaner... 7) Wheels: 14-inch rims. Stock were steel rims and wheel covers (center caps red with Z logo), but dealers put on differing rims like the 5-slot aluminum mags... Rust: VERY few cars are "rust free." Most have rust which hasn't yet been detected. Major usual suspects include floor pans (UNDER the tar sound deadener) rocker panels, rear quarter panel (INSIDE the plastic interior panel), battery tray, frame rails along rear of fenderwells, rear hatch area. What do you mean "rude" to check for rust??? It's Standard Operating Procedure for Z Car shopping... I'm sure there's more, but this is a reasonable start. If you haven't driven it or seen it, you probably shouldn't buy it unless you're willing to risk an $8,000 mistake. I'm sure your buddy means well, but it's YOUR MONEY you'll be spending, so be careful. Check with NADA for valuation. Caveat emptor and all that. Good luck! Steve

Zedd Findings (datsunzparts.com) and Zeddsaver (Zeddsaver.com) also offer repro decals...

If you resto-mod, the value is probably more determined by the quality of modification, both mechanical as well as body/paint. Almost a referendum on the restorer, not so much the base value of the car.... Car for car, a matching numbers vehicle has a better chance of retaining value than a modified one (one man's opinion.) Interest (and by extension, dollar value) in Asian cars (except the Toyota 2000GT) still lags behind pre-war, muscle and Euroclassic cars, but with Gen X aging, interest in imports will hopefully begin to make a push to the front. With that said, why not just keep the block? Doesn't take up too much space, and you have the option of dropping it back in later if prices favor "numbers matching" over modded cars when/if you sell. Good luck! Steve

Thanks for the help! I was hoping for new rubber, but looks like chances for that are slim...I'll call ZBarn et al and see if they have some quality used ones. Chris, thanks for checking--whatever you've got will help! Steve

Hey folks.... I just pulled off the corroded steel brake/clutch and fuel lines, and discovered the degree of dry rot in the rubber bushings which held the steel hard tubes to the body-wall mounting clips...No way can they be salvaged! Has anyone found a source for these rubber bits? Usual suspects don't have them in the catalogs...Ed, ZSaint, anyone who's completed a recent resto? I've included an annotated pic of Ed's engine bay for clarification.... Thanks! Steve

A question and my 2 cents: Question: Did you have any problems with the fuel outlet pick up tube getting clogged by tank sealer? 2 cents: Great job on the whole article. Good pics, concise explanations. Thanks! One addition: MSA now sells fuel system grommet sets, so you don't necessarily have to go the 3M sealer route. I think it costs like $38 http://www.zcarparts.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=SFC04E Thanks again! Steve

Smokes on start up? Please. No problem. Spongy brakes? Pshaw--child's play RUST? Hmmm...where there's smoke, there's fire. Whatever rust you see, the reality is ike 5-10 fold worse, as most Z cars rust from the inside, like within the front frame rails, quarter panels, rockers etc. Bottom fenders rust from debris caught up where the cowl drains into the inner fender...floorpans rust for a number of reasons including moisture trapped in between metal and asphalt sound deadener, leaky door seals and leaky heater tubes under the dash...Battery tray rusts from moisture/battery acid corrosion etc etc Need pics of engine bay, battery area specifically... The front framerail looks scariest to me. I wonder what hides under that undercoating? Is the T/C rod bucket going to fall off next? Better be good with a welder. The passenger floorpan is replaceable, and it looks like the seller knows it. If I had to guess, the seller has realized the extent of restoration involved and may be trying to bail. Seems upfront about it in the ad, although the car hasn't "started to rust"--more like "the rust has started to show." Can't blame him/her after seeing that frame rail... Caveat emptor. Examination in person is likely paramount. Pics only give a "tip of the iceberg" impression to me...Restorable? Sure! Just depends on how much $$$ you have. If you can get someone who likes welding a shot at it you may do fine. Everything else pictured looks good... Good luck. Edit: Zak's Z: I am not sure the dash is a cap...where do you see a seam? I looked closely at the pic with the driver's door open, and it looks like a real dash to me...

I'll go out on a limb here...I've seen this car before...I can't find the link, but this car was recently sold on Ebay from its owner in Arkansas...maybe the new buyer is trying to unload it? Tried and failed to export it? Who knows... His feedback is zero, so caveat emptor and all that. BTW, if I understand correctly, "LT" is Corvette drivetrain while "LS" is the Camaro

The short list... Ferrari Dino Austin Healey 3000 Jag E-type convertible Triumph TR6 Lotus Elise TVR Sagaris, T350 Aston Martin Vanquish Morgan Aero 8 ...and other unattainable vehicles

Ha ha...if it's over 45 outside and not too windy, I'll be playing! God Bless thermal underwear and windshirts.... Steve