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Me too! Two big boxes o' goodies, all donations to the "Save Ferri"---I mean "Save Michael" fund... Let us know when your parts department is back up and running! Steve

Do a Google search for "carfiche." I've been told there's some useful websites that...uhh...make this useful From what I've been told, images are grainy, but may be serviceable. Of course, the CZC.com's CD is better looking and easier to navigate, and it's better to have your own FSM, but in a pinch this may help. Steve

you have mail...

Zman: Traded some emails from you about some parts awhile back (brake proportioning valve, engine harness, etc.) but you never got back to me. Do you have those available? Steve

Seriously good idea, although may be labor-intensive.... Make Mike aware, so it might be linked to the front page! Steve

Agree with MontoyaFan (again) I think this is just a spike in the so-called market. Good old fashioned bidding war (as the list of bids indicated). Just like we shouldn't take Barrett-Jackson auction sales prices to benchmark a car, I don't think there's much more to glean from this one particular auction other than two people wanting a 7/10 set of taillights REALLY bad, RIGHT now. I've watched 10-12 other sets in similar/better shape go for $200s or so, and I think the market supports that price point over this inflated $500 sale. S

Thanks for the write-up. I have a couple non-working clocks I'm eager to try to get working again... In your experience, how often has clock dysfunction been attirbuted to sludge/contaminants vs other things like motor failure? Where should I look next if a stiff alcohol bath doesn't help matters? Thanks, Steve

Agree with Will. Once you start the job and get down to metal, you shouldn't stop there. Flash rust occurs inside or out, rain or shine, mainly from inherent humidity in the ambient air. Faster (obviously) when raining, but it will still happen. DON'T smear a coat of oil on it unless you plan on thoroughly scrubbing it prior to priming/painting. When I removed undercoating from the floors and fenderwells, I noticed that it appears Nissan may have primed prior to undercoating. After using heat gun, scraper, mineral spriits, etc. I was not yet down to bare metal. For fun, I took out my grinder and ground off what ended up being primer! Quickly did the Marine Clean, Metal Ready thing, then slapped some POR-15 on for good measure (that company's got me hook, line and sinker, BTW) and now I can pause a few days before priming and painting. You are only part of the way there if you are at bare metal, so don't stop! Steve

Just had a great time watching Top Gear on Discovery Channel tonight and realized that the true heir to the Z throne may lie across the pond. The TVR T350 (and big brother Sagaris) looks like what Nissan should have done to reinvent the Z....3.6l inline 6, 350 bhp, six-speed manual, 0-60 in 4.4sec...any thoughts? If only they still imported them to the States...Sigh. I hear rumor the new owner is eager to get TVR back on the map, including US importation, so there may be hope! Steve

Steve: I bought them on a Saturday and they showed up a week after that upcoming Monday (one business week). I should add that the covers require preservation of the wire that threads through the seat cover portion, as well as the clips which secure the seat back flap along its underside (their version of hog rings, I guess.) Still have to think about buying new foam, though. Guess I'll make that decision when the old covers come off... Good luck! Steve

I agree with jurven240z. I had a reaction disk problem 4 months ago, and the problem was not as Saro describes. In my experience, dislodged reaction disk causes no brake engagement until the end of pedal travel, not sudden loss of pedal pressure while braking. I am also curious as to what "no oil in the lines" means. If oil=brake fluid, then the answer is....put in some brake fluid, or find the leak and fix it. Or rebleed the system. Again. And again... Steve

If you're going to order one, get a rebuilt one from MSA (or other source) like Montoya fan suggests. The "rebuild kits" I've seen are only a few dollars cheaper than a fully rebuilt one, so it's not worth the effort. New ones are crazy-expensive. What's wrong with yours? Does it not hold vacuum? Poor pedal engagement? My brakes didn't grip till they were almost all the way to the floor, a problem I traced back to a malpositioned reaction disk, easily fixable (thanks to advice from folks here). Saved myself some cash--maybe yours is similarly afflicted? Steve This link may be useful: http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17072

Ah, yes....love the scams...can't believe people still fall for this! Good luck with the sale. Hope you get your asking price! Steve

Courtesy Nissan lists the front bumper on their website. Says the rear is NLA http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=CP&Category_Code=s30_nismo_z-euro-bumper

OK, so my mystery seat covers came today...I was excited to see how close they come to original, and I think the answer is----pretty close... Here's what I can say: Vinyl appears of good quality and well-stitched. Grain on the seat portion is a 90-95% match Grain on the trim is an 80% match Stitch line on the side trim, just off the seat area is too wide (by about 1/2") and is not raised enough. Vent buttons have too many holes, and are spaced slightly wider than original. But, I paid $75 less than CDM, and $60 or so less than MSA so all in all I am happy. LoneTreeSteve, I'd like to know your opinion as well since you bought a set. Other opinions? Does this look similar/different to MSA, VB or CDM? Thanks, Steve

My impressions are that if the edges are serge-bound and it's a loop pile, (original specs) they are all about the same. I think (IIRC) that all have some color fade issues. I'll probably go with Classic Datsun Motorsports (just to spread the wealth a bit between VB, MSA, CDM, etc.) Good luck, Steve

Hey Steve: I saw those same sets, and asked him to send a close-up pic. The grain pattern looks very close to original, so I bought 'em too! My set should be here tomorrow, so I will post some side-by-sides. Hope they look right! Steve

Hey there, If you are planning a high-comp engine, an E31 is good. It does have smaller intake valves, which may compromise some airflow. Be very careful of what you do--it doesn't take much to take the CR over 11:1 with L28 and E31. Nice big bang if using street gas... An alternative (what I am exploring) is using the E88 head. Guy real familiar with Z's in the Atlanta area has had great success putting larger 44mm intake valves in to the E88. CR issues not that big of an issue if you are using street gas as the volume is slightly larger than the E31. P90 is a good flowing head, used for turbo applications. I think it would work fine with NA apps as well. Later models (P90a) had hydraulic lifters which some say have difficulty maintaining. Check other Z sites for additional opinions, as these heads are primarily used in turbo-modded cars. Honsowetz's book, "How to modify your Nissan/Datsun OHC Engine" is a good resource for your library as well. Good luck Steve

I soaked mine for 3-4 days with PB blaster, used a good-size set of vise grips on both the nut and the old tie rod end. Add some sweat, some swearing and bammo! all done. One small tip: try to loosen the tie rod end, or at least keep track of exactly where the lock nut is on the thread. You want to return the nut to that position for reasonably close alignment until you get it to a shop... Steve

Is this what you mean? http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=38335 Guy around here wants $180 to do my half shaft u-joints! If it's a DIY-type job, and I get a cool tool out of it, I am gonna do it! Thanks for the tips, Gary and montoyafan. Steve

hey ZSaint! Thanks for the update. So glad to hear it was as simple as switching one of those four dash harness connector plugs. Keep it up! Steve

Stephen Blakeley: "Hagerty is a specialty provider. I have their insurance on my Z and my 320. There are certain restrictions on how the car can be used. You can't drive to work or to school on a regular basis, etc. You must have a non collector car also on a regular policy with a regular insurance company in order to have their in order to have Hagerty's insurance on your collector car or cars. It's bascally for pleasure driving, shows, etc. Some of the major companies offer collector car insurance but it is usually through some subsidiary of theirs and after comparison, I came to the conlcusion that Hagerty is the best of it's type at least for me." Correct me if I am wrong, but don't you also have to have the car in a secure weather-proof facility, i.e., locked garage? That may pose some problems if you are renting an apartment or something similar... Just don't sell the Z... S