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Very informative....220 rwhp and 210 lbft--nice! Sorry for the blitz of questions that follows..... I guess he bored the block over 0.120 with L28 crank to get to 2753cc. Did he use L28 rods or L24? If he used L24 rods, did he say anything about how he corrected the deck height problem (2.7mm above the deck) that appears to be created? Stock 280 flattop pistons, or custom? What kind of head gasket? What's your CR? (Only a guess), but should be right at 10-10.5:1? No detonation problems, I hope. So he installed 280Z intake and exhaust valves--why do you think overboring the intake valves to 44mm still causes some intake restriction? Were the valves unshrouded? Do you think it's a manifold issue? Rebello sells overbored SUs--maybe that's the bottleneck and you just haven't realized you need a set of those (evil grin)! Headers should be a fine addition since I bet the stock exhaust manifold is not designed to receive that much airflow. Wouldn't go above 2.5" for the exhaust as it may overdepress backpressure.... Sorry for the questions, but I am real interested in the same setup. Unfortunately, I have to live vicariously through your experience as shipping my L24 to California from NC borders on prohibitively expensive...well, they just approved a North Carolina lottery, so maybe there's still hope! Look forward to seeing some 1/4 mile and 0-60 numbers when the exhaust manifold and rear end get reworked (sounds like that's what you're eyeing next.) Congrats! Steve

That's what I was getting at. I think those connectors look similar on the outside--aren't there like four of them over there? Easy to get them confused/misconnected if you're like me... ZSaint--Courtesy Nissan sells FSM CD-ROMs, you may want to check that out. Steve

If power is partially getting to the dash, then I bet there is poor connection at the junction between engine and dash harness over by the glove box. That may also explain why your ignition switch is not working. Of course, it could also be connections at the switch or at the starter as above mentioned. Unfortunately, the meter, a wiring diagram, and a bucketful of time and patience appear in order as you go through and doublecheck these and other connections...I grieve with you! As far as under dash grounds, I know of three: top of brake pedal, behind accelerator and behind center heater bezel (page BE-3 of my 1973 FSM). Keep us informed, and as always, good luck. Steve

Will: Never done this before....any tips about flaring? Thanks, Montoya fan. Inline Tube appears to carry the right sizes, i just need to figure out the right fittings. Any ideas? Thanks again for the help, Steve

They sell replacement hard lines, but they are 3/16" brake lines. No larger OD fuel lines. They all come straight, so you have to buy the bender tool just below it. AFAIK, Classic Tube says it's a COMPLETE set. Hard to justify 225 bones for just the front/rear long tubes, but I haven't called to confirm. Here's the link: http://www.classictube.com/prodview.asp?idno=6294&searchtype=&partno=DA1005 Steve

Greetings, all! I am looking into replacing the hard fuel lines for my Z. They appear corroded, the fuel line filter housing has a rusty tone to it (orangier than normal gas) and actually the intake line appears to be out-of round as it enters the engine bay (see pic. Looks to me like it could cause fuel delivery problems). I am already doing rear end/undercarriage work, and was planning on replacing the hard brake lines (rusty colored brake fluid after 200 miles!) anyway, but I cannot find a source for fuel lines. Classic tube sells the brake line set for $225, but not the fuel lines (the one from tank to filter appears to be 5/16" while the others are more like 1/4" or 3/16"). Prices at local Nissan dealer (IF he can get them) is like $60 per line--a little steep. Has anyone done this? Found a good source? Bent their own? Archive search yields a lot of talk about vent hose repair, but not fuel line replacement. Thanks, Steve

http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18563 Don't know if thi shelps, but is this closer to you? Pics look OK, shipping might be less than from Oregon. FWIW, Steve

I second Enrique: Tried to contact the folks in Brush Prairie WA by phone and email and had no luck. Found a place called "Just Dashes" in Van Nuys, CA that lists the ability to restore 240Z dashpads, and am awaiting a return call. Other than, that, plan on dash resto to be one of the pricier parts of your experience, unless you go the cap route. Good luck! Steve http://www.justdashes.com/index_home.htm

Hi Mike: Have you looked into local Z Clubs? I just moved here from Atlanta, and joined up with Triangle ZCar Club in Raleigh. They do a lot of events with the Tarheel Sports Car Club, as well as the Triad Z Clun in G'boro and Emerald City Z Club in Eastern NC. Of course, if you're near Charlotte, Carolina ZClub is very active and has a great website. Lots of useful info from the local clubs, too, so feel free to join whichever club is closest! Emerald City Z is having a parts swap meet the weekend of Sept. 24. I'm sure by then you will have some ideas about what parts you might need... Interested in a little light reading? Go grab a copy of Wick Humble's book on restoring Z Cars. Good luck, and let us know how we can help you. Steve

My experience: 1) Dashrestorations.com: reasonable cost ($4-500) freight to and from Australia is like $600, although I don't know all the freight options for sending things overseas. Some members saved some cash doing a group shipment, so try searching for their thread. IMO, the resto'd dash looks good, but is not quite an identical grain, and the dash vinyl/plastic material is harder than original. But, it won't crack anytime soon.... 2) found dashboardrestorations.com out of Brush Prairie, WA. Emailed them, called them, no answer. Haven't found any other good leads on resto services. 3) No DIY repair ever looks good. Dash caps look OK, but IMO still look like they are a cover, especially around the gauge faces. 3) I bought an original dash. Not lonetreesteve's but an old one. Looks right, dash material feels right. Will it crack? maybe. But it's a risk I'm willing to take. Any other options? Steve

The roadster market is pretty much awash in models already: lessee, Z4, Miata, S2000, MR2, Capri (dead), Solstice, Sky, SLK, Boxster, Elise--I know I'm forgetting some. It's a narrow-interest market niche. I mean, how many folks on a Saturday are going to the car dealer looking for a minivan, pickup, 4-door sedan vs open top roadster? I just (unfortunately) had to buy a minivan last weekend, and the S2000 traffic was zero except for passing glances. The money was made on Accords and Odysseys (near continuous traffic and testdrives) with more people getting hooked on Honda through the entry-level Civic. Obviously, I'm no marketer. But I think Honda gets it right. Hook 'em on the entry-level loss leader. They come back four years later looking for a bigger sedan, then back four years later (now married with kids) looking for the minivan. The niche products are window dressing which make it tolerable to be at the dealer while your wife oohs and ahhs over 17,000 cupholders and neat little cubbies where your two-year old can stuff crusty old diapers....Or, so I'm told. At least the power rear liftgate is kinda cool... Anyway, if they want to move from #3 to #2, Nissan needs to follow this model. To have a niche car as your flagship is to make yourself into the next Mazda. Still what--fourth? fifth? in overall sales for Asian import vehicles... It's only $0.02, so it ain't much, Steve

Well...... If it comes in a cool binder with neat photos, I'd pay for it. Or even on CD...give it some thought. Keep it up! Steve

Enrique: Your timing (ooo, no pun intended) couldn't be better! I sat at my kitchen table not two weeks ago with a screw driver in one hand and my clock in the other wondering how the ^&%&$ I was gonna get my clock to work...Now I have a plan! PS: are you compiling these tech articles for a book? If not, you should consider it. Steve

Hey Chris: What size tire do you run with those 16 x 7s? Looks like maybe a 40 profile?? Do you get any fender rub? Thx, Steve

Cheap DT LA stuff...ouch, that kinda hurts. I bough this set and have been nothing but pleased. The only other choice I have seen (although I have not looked exhaustively) is the urethane sets sold by VB and Motorsport. Good luck, Steve

http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/z.html I think that site may help you out. Also try http://www.geocities.com/row4navy/ Good luck! Steve

Ed, Can't say it any better than those before me. Well done. Be proud of your work--it's nothing short of spectacular! Definitely a shot in the arm for those of us beginning our resto! Two questions: 1) Are those chrome headers--that's freakin' sweet! 2) Did you replace or just polish up your fuel and brake lines? I bet you've slept well since you finished. Thanks, Steve

I have had nothing but good experiences with MSA. I was surfing their site last night and noticed a new "Motorsport Blog", which explains they had a "software glitch" in their telephone system which may be the cause of V's complaint. I will give them benefit of the doubt since some complicated phone systems can be really buggy. FWIW, Steve

Yeah, Daniel. Just checked both MSA and VB catalogs and mechanical pumps are $50 and $55, respectively. I think you can get them cheaper on Ebay. Thanks, Steve

Sorry, I am a little unclear: What does "didn't come on" mean? Didn't crank, cranked but didn't fire, no power at all (to things like lights)? Not to sound so simplistic, but I had a similar experience with an easy solution: Took two weeks to redo my front suspension. Took out the battery, set it in my shed, did the work. Put the battery back in, car wouldn't start--nothing Turns out the battery had discharged completely! Are you sure your battery is good?

Bryan: Ha! Dude, don't insult your car like that! The only way my car and yours could be considered together is if mine doubled as a "before" picture with yours as the "after!" Wow. 3k is a lot. Hope he finds a buyer! Steve

I agree with Vicky. Hard to say without pics. I have an idea of how it looks in my mind, and based on your description this is probably a sub $1000 car on the East Coast. Probably less on the West? Who knows. What is his asking price? VIN#s, I agree, are like hitting an invisible target--what's low? what's not? IMO the only VIN-based valuation comes with those exceptional cars as listed on zhome.com that were raced, not released to the public, special gifts, etc. Others will most certainly disagree. Having bought a running and slightly better-conditioned version of your car (with a unique, one-of-a-kind VIN# of 81,xxx--oh, I forget) for which I paid $2000, and seeing all the work I have in front of me to do, I would probably hold out for a better maintained one that may allow you to catch a break or two on restoration. Who knows what "gifts" lie just beneath the surface of your particular car? But, ultimately it depends on how strong your desire is, (and by extension, how you value VIN#), how capable you are, and what your local Z market is like. I was reasonably anxious, don't care about VINs, and restorable Zs here in the South are not too common, so you can see how I paid a premium for my car. It's only money, right? Good luck, Steve

I ran into the same issue when I upgraded my front end bushings. Unfortunately, I had a friend push really, really hard while I tried to get the nut onto a thread. Sorry no miracles, just brute force. Don't forget the silicone lubricant. Some folks did not use it and they report some pretty bad squeakage... Steve