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Guy, My FSM says cam sprocket bolt torque is 86-116 lbft (1973 p. EM-33), similar to the crank pulley bolt torque. So, when I redid the timing components on my engine I didn't run into that conflict.. Not sure why your FSM is different...is it a typo? I elected not to replace the crank sprocket, so I didn't run into the issue you presented.

Had a similar problem awhile back (fully restored drivetrain and suspension similar to you). My "thunk" was from an incompletely secured spare tire. I doubt the arrestor strap is the problem.

I have had little luck from ZBarn regarding parts inquiries...many emails never returned. Guess I should just pick up the phone! So, were they able to verify that the diff you're buying doesn't have the backlash issues yours does? Or is it rebuilt? Glad things are moving along. How's the ignition?

Well, yes...that's why it's the best orange out there! The pearl is what makes it such a headturner compared to all the other flat or metallic oranges. He did ask for the best modern orange color, not the easiest to apply..... And based on my friends who own Lotus, the police are quite attracted to their car, so....:stupid:

Best orange I've seen lately is the chrome orange color on Lotus Elise/Exige. Similar color used on Lamborghinis too,IIRC... http://images.google.com/images?hl=en&q=chrome%20orange%20lotus&um=1&ie=UTF-8&sa=N&tab=wi

Andydando, I no longer have issues with my ignition system, but thanks for your input. I could've bought a new 3 ohm coil and gone without the BR, but chose not to.

When I had some issues resurrecting my engine from its 2-year sleep, I had some bouncing tach issues as well. Everything seemed in spec, using the Pertronix with the recommended 3-ohm coil and no BR. Still, it lost power above 5k and caused the tach to act very dodgy--I was thinking the tach was bad....Then I bought a new 1.5 ohm coil and repositioned the BR in the circuit and the problem was fixed. Still not entirely sure how that fixed it, except to assume the prior coil was going bad. Now it revs to nearly 7k with no notable loss of power (no internal engine mods, F54/P79 with 2.5" exhaust). How new is the distributor? Any shaft play? If the air gap on the Pertronix fluctuates it may cause intermittent spark/ignition symptoms. Good luck,

I like the wheels...after you lower it will you put on bigger brakes? The OEM 9" ones look a little small next to the 17" wheels. And with the wider tires and more aggressive stance the car should both turn AND brake better than stock, yes?

Puh-leez.... If anyone offered 13k for a #1 condition Z, and was actually serious about it, they'd be laughed off the stage, mocked or possibly tarred and feathered.:stupid: The Zs I've tracked on Ebay have all sold in the high teens to low 20s, and they are 3+ to 2- condition (Can't attach *.htm files or I'd provide info--sorry) But.... if someone's willing to sell me their #1 240Z for 13k I can cut them a check right now.

Along those same lines, if the rear bias adjuster/proportioning valve malfunctions, it could retain too much pressure after the first or second brake application causing the shoes to stick against the drums... I've had no success with rebuilt rear brake cylinders--it may be time for new ones.

Doc, Sleepy, Grumpy, sometimes Happy....Any of those are correct descriptions of me over my 15 year career!

Ha ha...well, we call it MCV. VCU is for the administration/marketing and the fine arts folks. Graduated college from Virginia, also a nice place for a photoshoot!

Hey Paul, Any audio of your exhaust? I've had about enough of the Dynomax that came with my exhaust system from MSA. Hoped it would mellow some, but it stayed pretty raspy.

Thanks guys....it was done more to show what "normal" looks like, incase someone with a driveline clunk/thunk etc decides to do the same test. I am a little inspired now...may post some more video after a few days if my idea works out. Guy, I'd love to come up to the show in October. What are the dates? (BTW, have you finished your F54/P79 mods yet? Love to see some video of that....)

....Ahhh. Shockoe Slip and Shockoe Bottom. Great place to hang out, eat and have fun--and snap pics of classic cars! The Slip was a nice study break when I was in school right up the street...

Uh...you might misunderstand. My rear end does not clunk. It has a new mount, new strap, new nuts and bolts all torqued correctly. The diff moves against the torque generated by the motor (and the resistance from the wheels), so the strap keeps the nose of the diff from slamming against the trans tunnel. The U-joints keep the torque forces from binding the driveshaft against the pinion of the diff (or the output shaft of the transmission). That motion is normal. One could buy a solid mount (Arizona Z Car, for example) to eliminate the motion altogether, but the ride quality might not be desirable.

I had some free time today so I hiked my car up for comparison. The diff itself has not been rebuilt. There is very little, like 1-2mm, of backlash when I try to rotate the driveshaft with the car up on ramps. The halfshafts have no backlash in them at all. All the mounts, bushings and hardware are new. (I have no driveline clunk, but traced a slight thud in the rear of my car to the shifting spare tire.) Since the kids were still in nap mode, and my wife was otherwise occupied, I grabbed my USB camera and strapped it to the passenger side rear transverse link, aimed at the diff, and threaded it up through the spare tire drain hole. Went out for a little drive, and here's what it showed. I wound it up to 5500, did some hard shifting, and punched it some while in gear trying to induce a thunk. I have extra video of some forward/reverse nature, but it shows the same as what's below (sorry for the low res) <embed id="VideoPlayback" style="width:400px;height:326px" allowFullScreen="true" src="http://video.google.com/googleplayer.swf?docid=-3727888468389030522&hl=en&fs=true" type="application/x-shockwave-flash"> </embed> Not sure, but hope this helps some

to measure backlash at the ring gear, you'd have to remove the diff cover. Here's a good relevant thread from the brilliant minds of hybridz... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=110197&highlight=differential+rear+end+backlash

...and if you try to hook up any 6x9 speakers to the stock radio, you'll probably be disappointed. Technically, that box is an "alternative" to the stock speakers, not a "replacement" for the stock speakers...(poke poke) I keed, I keed....

Looks very nice! What's the product number for the resonator and muffler? Good work!

It's not a threadjack...the underlying intention of the thread is "how can I enjoy my music while driving my Z?" My answer is "Keep the stock look, but install a non-stock system." Listening to music via a 4W speaker powered by a 3W monaural stereo is not my idea of "enjoying" music while driving a Z. If you can hear it all before it distorts, that is. I don't know if MSA or BD (or someone else) sells a correct replacement speaker...maybe someone else knows?

Closest thing I know of so far.... http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/LNP1/50-1290 That's why hidden/secret audio is so good. Totally separate components tucked under the seat, accessible via RF remote or installed LCD screen. Sounds good, and you can control your tunes from a distance if you're at a cruise-in or just hanging out.

Hidden audio.... http://www.customautosounds.com/classic/secret.html Keep the stock radio, put a better one under the seats!

$29,000 based on some recent EBay auctions, although that car is one of the best preserved ones I've seen...To restore one would cost more based on labor rates and lack of some critical parts. Hagerty has a template for "Show" "Excellent" etc categories. When I renewed recently, the Show category was at $31,000 and Excellent was around $24k. They'll agree to significant values of the Z, especially if you have photo documentation of the work done.