xray

gone...sold?

There's a reason they run them on racecars....Those Mikunis will do a fantastic job of improving power, but they need to be tuned/manitained by someone knowledgeable--it's not a plug n' play type of upgrade. SUs are fine for street use, flow well and only become a detriment once significant internal engine modifications are made. If they are in great shape, you can sell them for 1000-1500, depending on how many bidders there are and their degree of desperation. If they aren't in great shape then I'd guess between 6-800. Good luck

Ooooo...$3500--that's a deal! Congrats on the find. Maybe you're thinking of the TR 250, a 6-cylinder-engined version of the TR4/4a, seen in the US for only 1968. The TR6 was a new design. It came with PI (petrol injection) in the UK and carbs in the US. UKL spec made around 150hp, US spec was a meager 115 or so (later around 100 with smogging) BTW, Moss motors sells a nice supercharger kit for TR6s that boosts the power to around 150hp, if you're so inclined...(wink, wink)

Usual suspects apply, as with any older steel-framed car...floorpans (UNDER the sound deadener) rear wheel arch and leading edge of lower rear wheelwell (dogleg area), trailing edge of lower front fenders, battery tray area, frame rails, rear hatch sill area... 4-speeds are pretty reliable. No real clutch issues (low HP) unless driven by someone who isnt good on a clutch. Engine lower end is pretty stout, top end may require re-do (esp. the early cars with soft valve seats meant for leaded fuel). Mechanically straightforward, but not without some idiosyncracies. Pics? Many good projects can be had for under 5k, so don't jump on it unless it's really a good foundation. Good luck!

Provided you've maintained the correct airgap between magnet ring and sensor, if the voltmeter doesn't deflect to zero it sounds like it's failed. Maybe because of the coil resistance, maybe not. It would be cheaper to revert to points than replace the Pertronix, but I would call them to confirm before tossing it in the trash. BTW, if the coil reads 2.5 ohm and not the listed 3 ohms, I'd replace the coil too.

Thanks! That site shows a lot of potential, seems to be geared toward late-model used cars. I wonder if he'll add some classic car classified websites--I'll email him....

Enrique, sorry my tone doesn't make it through forum posts well. I figured you were chiding me some...Asking mechanics is a great idea, but the downside to living here in NC is that there are only a couple places that do that sort of work. On the other hand, they probably know every Brit/Italian/German car in the area as well! Steve, I'm pretty lucky that my wife likes (a) cars ( the end result of my Z resto and © me. She did declare recently that my projects should be sufficiently "different looking from each other," so I think I can abide by that one criteria. Additionally, working on some Euro cars will help me learn how similarly/differently each marque approached their sportscar. Thanks for the tips!

Thanks, guys... EBay is but one stop in the journey, sorry to say...I have 25 favorites (I think) saved and check those emails daily. What would be cool is if all these classified classic car sites had RSS-feed servcies related to my search criteria. Hmmm...maybe there's money to be made there! Enrique, I appreciate the difference between finding and searching, but making a task more arduous than necessary doesn't make it the "right" way to do it. I easily spend an hour or so 2-3 times a week checking on what's available, and what's within a reasonable distance from me. It's not unreasonable to ask "is there a better way?" Ron, sadly I'm interested in too many potential cars: 1965-1968 EType 1966-1968 AH 3000 1970-1973 BMW E9 1970-1972 914/6 1968-1972 911s TR6 Alfa GTV Alfa Boattail Duetto 1987-89 E30 M3 1988 E28 M5 1987-1989 Porsche 930 VW Thing (wife likes it) Benz 190/250/280SL Lotus Elan Spitfire (possible sportbike conversion) 1967-1968 Camaro Convertible 1970-72 Chevelle convertible And more that I can't recall right now. As you can tell, the list needs some whittling down. Some (EType and Healey) are hard to find that still need restoration, and some (Alfas, early BMWs) are tougher than others to find parts for. It's fun to consider the possibilities though.

I'm looking for a new project.... Are there any (for lack of better terms) search engines for classic cars? I don't have the time or stamina to look through Ebay, Craigslist, GoFast Auctions, Classiccars.com, collector car trader, Hemmings etc every few days and was wondering if there's a single engine that mines all of these (and other) sites? Google turns up a lot of junk, and since I'm looking for about 10 different cars, it'd be cool to run a customizable search of all classic car adverts. Any ideas? Thanks!

Don't risk the papercuts! http://classicmotorsports.net/project-cars/1970-datsun-240z/

Pertronix either works or it doesn't, it's just a switching device with a magnetic sensor. They suggest either a 1.5ohm coil with BR, or a 3.0 ohm coil with no BR. I'd call them about using a 2.5ohm one... I posted in another thread some Pertronix troubleshooting pages... http://www.vintageperformance.com/retrorockets/troubleshooting.htm If you have spark at the coil wire and no spark at the plug wire, I'd check the rotor, cap and center carbon button as previously mentioned. If you mash the rotor too far down the airgap might be too large for the spark to jump to the rotor. Sigh....Well, at least it was an enjoyable couple of days, yes?

Well...as you can see by my post in that thread, I too have considered that possibility. I see you'll soon be in Charleston, only a few hours from ATL, better for sunbelt/balanced performance or Eddie Radatz's shop (not sure if it's still open since I've not been back there in 3 yrs.) Near here (central NC) there's LNA enterprises which, IIRC, builds ITS and EP Z engines. I bet they could do a street build too in the off-season.

"Most common flammable and combustible liquids have autoignition temperatures in the range of 300°C (572°F) to 550°C (1022°F). Some have very low autoignition temperatures. For example, ethyl ether has an autoignition temperature of 160°C (356°F) and its vapours have been ignited by hot steam pipes." http://www.ccohs.ca/oshanswers/chemicals/flammable/flam.html Gasoline's autoignition temp is around 500F http://hypertextbook.com/facts/2003/ShaniChristopher.shtml BTW, Mike that's a real cool tool you linked...I'll need to add that to my list!

What's the coil's resistance? I've heard that if you run the 1.5 ohm without the BR (or other aftermarket low resistance coil) it can damage the Pertronix unit resulting in....a car that won't start. Still a bit confusing, since you say there's spark at the plugs, but I'd check Pertronix's website for troubleshooting. The fail test protocol is pretty easy to do (I had to check mine when troubleshooting my starting issues.) http://www.vintageperformance.com/retrorockets/low_voltage.htm http://www.vintageperformance.com/retrorockets/avoiding_problems.htm http://www.vintageperformance.com/retrorockets/field_test.htm Or you could swap in points and see if that fixes it....

http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18641&highlight=rebello This is the most recent documented experience I could find. Hope it helps! Alternatively, Sunbelt in Atlanta has been involved in a GRM/Classic Motorsports build that generated 170RWHP on headwork alone. IIRC, that's about 200 at the flywheel, and probably didn't cost the $4700 the OP in the above thread paid. Good luck!

Looks good, Guy! So you had the fuel pump boss milled out of the P79 also? BTW, who did your plating? I still need some stuff cad and zinc plated, and am looking for someone local...

So what fixed it when the same thing happened last year? Have you tried that?

So...I still don't get how it's a fuel problem. Fuel pump works, there's gas in the bowls....The car ran fine before so the likelihood of "bad gas" is low....Simultaneous plugging of nozzles? Fuel lines crimping/clogging between float bowls and nozzles at the same moment? Doesn't seem plausible. Besides, if it was simultaneous clogging of nozzles, I would think it would give intermittent problems/sputtering etc then die, not one sudden stop and then never restart. The starter fluid observation may be a red herring since (IIRC) ethyl ether is more combustible than gasoline (chemistry experts correct me if I'm wrong), so it may keep the car running simply from the compression/cylinder pressure plus a real weak spark. Still, it's worth de-clogging as much as you can just to be sure it's not debris or something in the fuel lines between the bowl and nozzle. You said the battery's fine, but are you seeing battery voltage at the coil? Your alternator was tested and it functions within spec? Coil gives you the proper primary and secondary resistances?

Well that's a HUGE relief! Congrats on getting it done and running....except for the coolant leak (ugh.) May take a couple of tries with the gaskets, and you need to have both surfaces COMPLETELY smooth and clean. I hope that's the last big hurdle you have to manage

Good battery voltage? Alternator working correctly? Any loose grounds? Blown fuses? What was happening when it stalled? Hard acceleration, sharp turn, sudden braking, idling?

Hi Randy, If it runs like crapola without the choke, and fine with it, do you think the fuel is set too lean? Or possibly a vacuum leak? So it only happens after 10-15 minutes of driving? Are you driving the whole time with the choke on? Your temp gauge is coming up within 5-10 minutes? Thermostat is working correctly (maybe it's stuck open and never gets to operating temp...)? Good luck!

IIRC, Those brake lines on EBay are resold from Classic Tube. The stainless is nice since it won't corrode ever again, but doesn't meet strict standards as the original were plated steel. If you buy the brake lines, it'll look pretty silly next to your original clutch and fuel lines which sit right next to the brakes, so set aside some extra $$$ for those as well. I guess you could clean the fuel and clutch lines, then paint them, but I doubt it'd be a close match to the brake lines...depends on what you're willing to pay. I put all new SS lines for brakes, fuel and clutch on my restoration and have to say the Classic Tube set is about 95% correct and looks great, especially in a clean restored engine bay. There were some issues with BMC lines and some other parts where the bends were not exactly perfect, but it's much better than what I would have done on my own.

I read your threads over on hybridz, and may have missed this....how much air does that flow? Will you/have you experimented with horn length, injector placement, trumpet diameter and venturi effect etc? (not a designer of intakes, so my terminology is probably incorrect)

I thought I had seen those pics before... http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=30868 How about showing us your own situation with pics of your car's distributor/ignition components, so I/we can see and understand better what's going on?

I don't understand those two pics. The top one looks like it's from an EFI L6(Intake hose along the bottom?) and the bottom pic is from a carbed L6....different upper rad hoses....am I hallucinating? How do you know you have spark at the plugs?