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I replaced every bushing on the car with poly, including steering coupler, and couldn't be happier. Taut feel (even on #5 setting of my Illuminas) and no squeaks. True, jeff, the supplied bit of lithium grease is inadequate. But NAPA or Pep Boys has containers of the stuff for like $5, and it's been well worth it. If you want indivdual componentts of the Energy Suspension Polyurethane bushing, try this site: http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/categories.asp?cat=14 Zs are listed under Nissan, not Datsun. Good luck, and beware of "while I'm at it"-itis. It'll bleed you dry!

Dumb question: Does your midpipe have the bend mine does? The bend is not centered along the length of the pipe, and if it's on backwards it might bind on the trans mount. That's strange to see the header stop that high in relation to the trans mount--mine definitely didn't do that. Yours is a 280 (based on the hardline positioning), so I'm not sure how the trans tunnel is altered from the 240--or if it matters. If it doesn't fit, I'd try returning them for a second set before dropping more $$$ to have someone fix your set. Good luck,

I brought doughnuts or bagels to the bodyguy who did my car every two weeks for ten months. I'd hate to know how long it would've taken if I didn't:dead: Looks like good progress, Arne. I assume the headlight pieces are getting done separately, but painted at the same time?

Pics? What kind of S30 do you have? Here's my thread documenting the uneventful install on my 1972 with L28 and stock 4-spd....any similarities? http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28266&highlight=msa+6-1+header N47 is the Maxima 2.4 head...I'm no expert on those, but IIRC the main differences were in port size and combustion chamber size/shape, not overall dimension... maybe someone with 810/Maxima knowledge will chime in.

I agree, Enrique. I've noticed that the folks who need to restore their Z want prices to stay down, while those who've finished or bought a restored one want them to go up...probably not a coincidence. The Japanese imports, the Z in particular, are getting more routine coverage in collector/classic car mags, evidenced by the big spread on Datsun in the current Hemmings Sports and Exotic (even if some key facts are incorrect). They even profiled a B210--Whahuh!?:stupid: Increasing profile should generate more demand/interest in buying, restoring and showing these cars, and their value should improve accordingly. Fingers crossed. Hopefully some deep pocketed collector is looking to catch the next rising wave of collector interest in early Asian imports and will take a liking to the VZ car listed, paying big money for it. I don't see much downside to that purchase, even at 35-40k, given its rare history and interesting storyline. Bob, don't listen to the haters. Yours is unique to the Z timeline and should be valued accordingly. Even if it doesn't sell, it may generate some buzz and get sold later down the line.

I'd also like to do a GRM challenge car, but I fear all efforts pale in comparison to last year's winner...The team (Cheapparal) made a C4 corvette with an Abrams tank blower on it to improve downforce to like 1000lbs! Hard to beat a bunch of gearhead engineering types, but it'd be fun to try! http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/challenge/build-diary/

Well....on a pathologist's COD sheet, everyone's proximate cause of death is cardiovascular collapse/heart failure. What we don't know are the factors that precipitated the CV collapse. Dehydration, fatal arrhythmia, atherosclerosis and coronary ischemia? Stroke? PS---do you have a link? Just tried surfing jalopnik with no luck.

Nissanman's spot on with that recommendation. Lots of stress through that area with front suspension and engine mount/front crossmember at that position. Needs a pro repair, IMO. Best of luck, Randy

Good car for collectors, I'd be nervous driving it around. $30k doesn't meet reserve, BTW. I hope it gets sold for good money!

I doubt a pro installer would guarantee the work if installing an old windshield, whereas they would warranty a new install. It's nice looking out of a clean new windshield instead of 30+ year old pitted glass, so I went with new, albeit period incorrect, glass. Unless you want to try it yourself, can get an S30 windshield on the cheap, and may be willing to try several times, I'd go with new. Good luck!

Sounds like the reaction disk may have been displaced. BTDT... See if this thread matches your symptoms... http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17072&highlight=reaction+disk

I hear you, Greg...but some video clips I saw showed these cars not at any significant racing speed. Maybe 60mph. From what I read (GRM, LeMons website etc) the tech inspection appeared serious about safety, and the CHP said (via reports on the LeMons website) that the car was functioning normally, and appeared in good condition at the moment of impact. If the driver passed out, that's more a health issue (water intake, driver cooling, prior medical conditions) that may not have come to light in a sprint-type event. I hope it doesn't have repercussions for GRM $200X challenge, BABE rally and next year's LeMons. I like those grassroots events!

Tragedy at LeMons. Very sad to see such a lighthearted event suffer a fatality. reports are still developing, but here's a brief on the event: http://jalopnik.com/389296/tragic-death-reported-at-altamont-24-hours-of-lemons-race Thoughts and prayers are with Mr Summerfield's friends and family.

Just renewed my Hagerty policy. After completion of the restoration, agreed value was changed to $24,000. In the course of discussion I learned that for "show" cars (which I interpret to be non-driven high level trailer queens) they will insure up to an agreed value of $31,000. My cost was $156 per year, with Hagerty Plus membership fee ($40). Those of us just completing restorations should consider readjusting our agreed values, as insured values are climbing. $0.02

I think it's worth checking the float bowel fuel level, make sure the choke works properly without binding, but also check your plugs. I experienced some similar symptoms awhile back, and after cleaning and regapping the plugs the cold starting/bucking/popping was resolved. Did it have the same problems prior to your Pertronix install?

When I sourced my windshield 6 months ago, there were no Nissan OEM replacement available. Anywhere. IIRC, Mike (our beloved webmaster) claims to have the last NOS one on his car. And, when I went to the aftermarket, I spent 2 months trying to find non-shaded glass. No luck. It may have been a production problem, but my experience leads me to believe that only shaded glass remains available. You could try to reinstall any original S30 glass, but remember it's brittle 30+ year old stuff and doesn't respond well to torque. Good luck

Hi Randy, I'm torn...I've got a set of black ones for mine as well, but enjoy the smooth look without stripes as well. I think on yours, the white sets off the wheels nicely, and looks real clean against the green... BTW, where'd you find NOS stripes?

AWESOME! Great work getting it back on the road. Be proud of your work. The sound of your exhaust is the "sound of success" and should be appreciated on a regular basis....

Iron oxide is converted (reduced, IIRC) to water and iron phosphate (blackish residue) after exposure to phosphoric acid. I typically leave the acid on the rusty surface for about 30 minutes, then rinsed and dried (heat gun works well). Iron phosphate is a poor rust preventer as it doesn't adhere well, so it's advised to prime and paint as soon as possible. Check some chemistry websites or google it to confirm.

I can't say I like the headlights, or the "fangs" in the grill, but 3000lbs and 350HP say alot more to me. Unfortunately, price increases mean it's close to entering M coupe/135i/Cayman S territory which may be a tough nut to crack. Increasing price is what killed the Z in the 90s--let's hope it doesn't happen again.

Great work! Glad to see some success--now go enjoy it on the road!

I agree with the Tokico spring assessment. They are progressive springs, and the top 4 turns are fully compressed under normal load. HybridZ.org has a sticky devoted to this. I'm changing mine out to something better when time is available. But, even the Tokico springs were better than my 30+ year sagging originals.... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=121496&highlight=tokico+spring+bind

Looks great! Looks like a guidecoat of primer on those pics? Whatever it is, it gives an unfair wavy appearance on the pics...I'm sure it's nice and smooth. Looking forward to seeing final paint!

It's tough to give good advice without complete enough information! I did ask you for pics of your distributor and TDC orientation, and never saw those. In the beginning of this thread, the OP was convinced he was at TDC #1 and his #1 spark plug wire was way off. As it turns out, my request was valid as it would have revealed a similar disorientation of the cap/wires and would've led to a quicker resolution instead of all your frustration with the carbs. I was trying to steer you back to ignition and timing, since I had just completed this exact exercise in fixing my car... Where did you get the idea that the drive gear was off in the first place? Did you mess with the oil pump/distributor, replace the timing chain etc? Responding to requests for photos, clarifications etc. is not "some rule" that was "violated" but instead is a reasonable request designed to gather additional info to solve your issues with the car. It is forum decorum :stupid: to respond to those requests as completely as possible. If not, then folks who search the forums will deal with a bunch of dead-end posts and threads that never successfully identify, describe and resolve common or unique problems related to our beloved Z. I'm glad you're on the path to fixing it, and hope it sees the road soon.

If you're using a 3-ohm coil from Pertronix, the BR is not required. If you're using the 1.5ohm coil, the BR is required. If the BR is not used, the 1.5 ohm coil may over heat and/or damage the Pertronix unit. However, having run both setups, I can say that the 1.5ohm coil with stock BR runs better than the 3-ohm. Stock BRs can be found at MSA, on Ebay or (I think) at nissanparts.cc