xray

That's sarcasm-smilie there. I know it was for you. I find it interesting that the focus shifted suddenly from "I'm sure it's fuel-related" to not just ignition timing but an offset drive gear, yet no info was posted that would've indicated the timing cover, oil pump etc were removed or otherwise altered. The link above referenced the exact issue I had with my car, and had he mentioned the drive gear situation earlier, (or searched I suppose) better more accurate advice could have been given. Glad I could help

Glad to help:dead:

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28449&highlight=distributor+gear ...problem seems eerily familiar.... Your second pic is one tooth too far the opposite way. It should line up right edge of the screw hole.

Another thought.... Make sure you have good metal-to-metal contact between cap and wires, and the plugs and wires. Sometimes the ends can be pushed back into the wire insulators such that good contact is difficult to achieve, leading to weak spark and bad ignition. I assume you've checked your wires for correct resistance? With your new points, you got a new condensor as well? I run Pertronix on mine, so I'm of little use in that regard, but some forum searching should turn up some helpful tips...

Paul, I would still check to make sure you're getting spark at the end of each spark plug wire (unless you've done that and I missed it in your postings.) After returning the mix nuts to 2 turns from full lock, and with an insulated glove, place a metal punch in the end of the spark plug wire and, while holding the insulated part of the wire, place the metal end near the valve cover. When the engine is turned over (unplug the other spark plug wires) it should create a nice blue spark that (IIRC) can jump 4-6mm. If it's faint or won't jump that far, then your issue is ignition/spark related as well as possibly fuel related. Alternatively, if you can get it to run at all, you can place the timing light across each sparkplug wire and see if your light flashes. Check to be sure it sparks on all plug wires, and check to be sure your plug wiring is in the proper order (Basic, I know, but sometimes the simple things trip us up.) 1-5-3-6-2-4 ACW from #1. Frustrating, I know, but hang in there. Any pics of your distributor with cap on and off? Just want to confirm wire positioning....

Paul, My mix nuts were not preset at 2 1/2 turns. My refurbed ZT carbs required some work to function well (adjust choke, adjust float level, adjust mix nuts), so they may not all be "plug and play." You should probably double check yours. Bo, My use of the term backfire was intentional, because that's how I interpreted his description from post #27. ("The car backfires, will barely run once every few tries, and its expelling unburnt gas back out through the new carbs") If it's loud popping etc from the exhaust the preferred term is "afterfire" or at least, "backfires through the exhaust"

Dumb questions.... 1) Are your mixture nuts set correctly? Baseline is 2-2 1/2 turns down from full lock. Backfiring is usually a lean condition. 2) Have you checked each spark plug wire to verify that it gets spark? Are your plugs dry and carbon fouled? Wet and/or smell like gas? 3) What ignition components are being used? Is your ignition system setup correctly? Checked primary and secondary coil resistance? Normal voltage to the coil? New battery (at least good voltage from a used one?) Post pics of what you call TDC, your distributor orientation, ignition set up etc. Good luck!

Is the reaction disk still in place inside the booster? If this little rubber disc falls out, pushrod travel will be limited inside the BMC and give the sensation of soft brakes, or brakes that don't engage until the very bottom of pedal travel. It sounds like the booster holds vacuum (given your comment about "softness" after the engine is started), but it might be worth hooking a vacuum gauge to it to be sure it still holds vacuum for a reasonable time period. It's not uncommon for these disks to fall out/dislodge when changing master cylinders. Mine was displaced when the PO changed the master cylinder prior to my purchase. A bit of a SWAG, I know, but if all else fails....

More dumb thoughts: --Tire pressure normal? Does the car drive straight on a level road? --Any crimps in the original brake lines? If one is creased or crushed, too little brake hydraulic pressure will get to the caliper, causing pull to the unaffected side. --Is this a new problem, a problem since the calipers were added, or a problem of longer duration? --I was under the impression that there is only a front/rear proportion valve, and the switch under the master detected changes in front/rear pressure but merely split hydraulic pressure left/right. It's possible the switch outlet for the right front line is partially blocked--has it been flushed out? --any trouble bleeding the system? Any fluid leaks? When you replaced the calipers the bleed screw is on the top, right? --A brief google search for "Brakes pull to left" shows that you're not alone. Sadly, no one else has any good advice.... Good luck,

If the right side caliper is not working well, it will pull to the left under hard braking. Are they new calipers or originals?

I"m partial to lime myself. Congrats on the purchase. I hope you enjoy it!

I would suggest doing nothing until the car is home. Gas tank work can be dangerous, especially when mixing a bunch of flammable stuff together as you suggested. MEK is what my radiator/gas tank repair shop said they used to clean the inside of my tank. It may cost some $ to let pros handle the job, but it's better than dying, or worse suffering severe burns/injury and the debilitation that comes with it. Be careful.

Bart, Yup. My S54 spinning at 7k in the M roady is one of the best sounds coming from a car. Even better than the Z, but there's 30 years of progress between the two motors, so I'll cut the Z some slack...

Compression check? Leakdown test? Those results will tell you about ring condition, head gasket, valve condition etc. Have you checked/adjusted the valves?

It may be just me, but those tires look a little small, not quite filling the wheelwell in the way stock Zs do, which would certainly make your speedo off. Like Carl said, are they stock width/aspect ratio?

Randy, What type Magnaflow is that? I like the dimensions of it over the typical sqaure/oval shape. IIRC, the tone will change over the next couple hundred miles, usually mellows a little. My Dynomax has, and now has a much improved tone over its initial one.

Pretty interesting, as I'm doing the same thing...I'm running my L28/P79 with cam now, GTech Pro estimates 168 RWHP. From what I've gathered from the ZDoc in Roanoke and on HybridZ, the P79 mods to increase CR will help it get to around 225ish HP, depending on headwork and cam profile. I have the 225 flywheel (10-lb version) and from what I understand using the 240mm flywheel is only necessary for big HP forced induction. For clutch components, you need to stay with 280Z TO bearing and collar, as aftermarket clutches are designed around that collar profile. I bought a Centerforce II clutch and all components from MSA, and they were very much aware of what was compatible, so I'd suggest talking to them as well. I wouldn't be too enthusiastic about the stock L24 with just a mild overbore and cam (not knowing the specific specs)...I guesstimate it'll be in the 140-150 RWHP range, based on my friend who races a stock L24 with triples and cam getting 165 RWHP, but I'd love to see a dyno sheet! I'd like to do the P79 mods as well, then rebuild the matching numbers L24 with headwork by Sunbelt. But, between the M roady and the current state of my Z, I'm having enough fun. Please post up some dyno sheets when the L28 is finished!

Guy, When I spoke with him he was vague about what he did. It's understandable since most of his work is proprietary and and his speedcraft and dependability are what make him an excellent choice for racing engines. Basically, the 2.4 block is bored and stroked to about 2.8 using a 280Z crank and internals. Camshaft and headwork are TBD based on client discussions. Here's an interesting thread with a link to a dyno for his 2.4 modded engine. Powercurve is quite peaky with 200HP+ available after 5000 rpm and peak torque in the same range. Good for racing, but may not meet expectations on the street. http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18641&highlight=rebello Good luck, Steve

..not much left to add after that vid. well played!

one set for me, and I'll link this to my local Z club forum for additional interest

Bryan, The purpose of the thread is to act as a current survey of carpet suppliers, which is why I contacted and added ZF and Banzai to the thread. I have already purchased (and subsequently resold) a CDM kit (inaccurate reproduction for my taste), and since someone has already posted their conversation with Les, posting mine would be needlessly redundant (as he told me the same thing.) The thread is also about outlining the variations in the stock Z carpet, from clips to backing material, and the compilation of info should help someone educate an upholsterer and maybe convince them to do a run of "as close to accurate as possible" carpet, knowing the possibility of selling several dozen units or more (conservative estimate). Ron, Jim wanted to see folks' opinions on how to proceed (see post 102), and I was posting my position on his 4-point "poll." The more people who respond (maybe to a formal poll?) the better we will understand the correct course to pursue. I am also waiting on Jim's contact to see if anything pans out. I have some contacts here in Raleigh, but lack an adequate sample to take around, so I offered to help.

Finally got word back from Charlie Osborne. Sounds like he has a better pattern, but probably has an attached jute and no clips/snaps attached. "Steve: To answer your questions- The carpet kit are cut close to OEM specs and look very good once in the car. They do not have all the hold down clips. They have cut-out for the luggage straps. They have the insulation backing but it is not horse hair but a newer type. The ones I sell are probably the same as what everyone else has. Let me know if you are interested in ordering. Charlie Osborne Zedd Findings 603 Compass Court Kingston, ON K7M 8V9, Canada Tel: 613-389-1397 / Cell: 613-530-6801 www.datsunzparts.com www.datsunzparts.ca www.datsuns.net Life's a Journey - Enjoy the Ride! **************************************************************************** *** Comment: Hi Mr. Osborne, Is your carpet set cut to true OEM specs with the appropriate snaps for the floor carpets, luggage strap cutouts, etc.? Is the underpadding attached? Is it horsehair-like or the newer type of jute? I've tried every other supplier and have come up empty on a true reproduction of the sectional carpet for a 1972 240Z... Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Steve" I also spoke on the phone with Mike McGinnis at Banzai, and he says he's just put slits in the floor carpets for where the clips are supposed to go, and has used aftermarket ("Mom and Pop" he calls them) snaps for their attachment to the firewall insulator. He has a few "misgivings" about the carpets sold by TIR and MSA, but that's hardly news around here... For efficiency, I would suggest loop pile only and doing two varieties--early and late based on location of the tool boxes. Cut the jute to size, make it look professional, and keep it separate (at least for the rear deck.) This would allow for the earliest cars with rubber matting to have something cut to fit as well...Jim, maybe your contact has a supply of snaps that could be bought and attached by the buyer? This still leaves the clip question, but that could be tabeled until we get a sample made. Since my carpets were destroyed prior to purchasing my Z maybe someone could make a tracing of the correct carpets (early and late with correct luggae strap cutout on the deck and driver's floor) and mail it to me? There are a couple of upholstery shops here in Raleigh that do restoration work, and I'd like to gauge their ability to help. Thanks

Must...pick...nits... (sorry) VW and Porsche were two sides of the same coin for many years (look at the surname of the designer of the original Volkswagen) and still were when the 914 project rolled around. IIRC, the 914 was to be sold as a VW in 4-cyl version and a Porsche as a 6-cyl model. Starting price of new 350Z over 30k? Is something Z-related finally cheaper here on the East Coast??? Base coupes here in NC are still 27.9k MSRP, and I imagine you could talk a good bargain given the slowdown in car sales the past few months. I do agree, Arne, that a lighter less GT-like car that had a tight suspension, solid handling and adequate power would sell quite well in the low to mid-20k range. People looking for sporty cars may start wanting something with as much fun factor as green factor, and having a lighter, more fuel-efficient sportscar (I think) may show folks a better way to go. If someone has nearly 40k to spend (NISMO Z) would they still spend it on a Z, or would they reach a little higher for the 135/Boxster or over to the musclecar side in the G8, Mustang, base Corvette etc? I am sort of surprised and a little disappointed Nissan didn't fight in the Miata War--I like to think they could've produced something formidable like a retro 510...

Hi Ron, I'm not so much interested in the TSB itself. I'm trying to figure out if my purchased replacement is a faithful recreation of an earlier version from 1972, or just improvised. If there's some literature or p/n from a TSB or other update, then I'd feel a little better. Regardless, the 8800 is not correct for 5/72 and later, so maybe if someone could check their early 1972-late 1971 emission sticker I could (A) verify the accuracy of the e8800 sticker and ( get an idea of what date range we're working in. Thanks!

Some wise old mechanic said "If you think it's fuel, then the problem is spark. If you think it's spark, then it's fuel." Here's some random thoughts and SWAGs... You have to jump a new battery to get it to start? Is your alternator good? Grounds good? Have you checked to see if you're getting battery voltage to your coil? Weak voltage-> weak spark = rough/no idle Is the primary and secondary resistance of the coil within spec? Why did you bypass the BR? The car does that automatically on start-up so that the cold engine gets full voltage to make the biggest spark to ignite the fuel air mix. Once it's in the "RUN" position, the BR is in the circuit protecting the points (along with the condensor). It may mess with your tach some as well. Is the center point of your cap in good proximity to the rotor (cap too loose)? Are spark plug wires checked for correct resistance? You can check for spark at the plug wires by using a timing light..which ones light up consistently/inconsistently or not at all? What do your plugs look like? Are they wet with gas? Carbon-fouled? What gap are you running? I had to tweak my float level (also ZT refurbed SUs) to keep it from being over-rich; you may have to as well. Correct fuel pressure is right around 3.5-4 psi. Choke mechanism doesn't impact fuel pressure, but does drop the nozzle in relation to the float level making all needle stations richer than when the choke is disengaged. My ZT carbs had some issues with binding of the choke mechanism, so make sure yours move smoothly with the choke linkage attached. Is #1 TDC correct in orientation between distributor and cylinder head? Has there been any action with the front cover (new oil pump, timing chain etc?) When it does run, is the timing correct? Certainly not exhaustive, but this may be helpful going forward...I had a similar problem when I resurrected my car, and it ended up being a combination of all the above factors. Tweaked the float level, my oil pump drive was off a tooth, needed a new 1.5ohm coil, etc etc Good luck!