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Based on my personal experience and photos at the top of the thread, I'm not sure how it dragged on anything unless your car is seriously lowered or the system not correctly installed. Post some pics maybe? Might be moot though if you already paid to have someone do it over again... The Superturbo Dynomax MSA provides with the system clearly is not the best option... but there's so much space in that area of the car, there are a myriad of options for better fit/sound.

Good work, Warren! You and I are working in parallel it appears...I was having weak spark issues as well, fixed by new cap and rotor (new wires as well, but felt not to be the major issue.) I think my issue related to an inappropriate gap between the carbon tip of the cap's coil pole and the rotor. New plugs today, and cross the fingers for hope it runs! Thanks for updating the progress, Steve

I had trouble with those last two brackets also. My main issue to overcome was the "shipping bends" put on the tubes so they can be put in the boxes...If I had to do it again, I would loosely attach the bracket which is just before the diff cross member (for lack of better term) before installing the tubing along the trans tunnel; it may help keep everything together better. That last one which has only the fuel lines was a real bear and required some "persuasion" to fit well. I think the length measurement on those is just barely off, but can be made to fit with some maneuvering. Good luck, Steve

Great work! Keep it up! It must be a bit tough finding parts, but from your earlier posts, it appears you have most everything ready to go! Hope you get it on the road soon! Steve

...hmph... just re-read my reply to Enrique's post, and I think it came across wrong. Apologies for those who may have misunderstood. The point I was trying to make was....that mine, while advertised as being from Japan and look very much like "OEM/JDM/NOS" covers, are copies of those covers. I would consider them the Japanese equivalent of what Will is trying to do. Simply being from Japan doesn't make them bonafide JDM, NOS or OEM. Hence my question about markings... BTW, weren't they also an aftermarket dealer-installed option here in the US? They do look nice, though...Hopefully Will will get his plans together for a group buy! No pressure though. Really. Steve

Agreed... Just in case, check that there's proper oil in the damper, the float level is right and the fuel mixture is set to baseline. Just because ZTherapy's are refurbished doesn't mean they are plug and play...gotta check 'em out to be sure shipping didn't alter things too much. Steve

Hmmm....mine?

I bought them off EBay, actually, about a year or maybe 18 months ago. Paid in the 300s for them, although the actual amount escapes me. He apparently imported them from a contact in Japan..haven't seen them listed since, but haven't been keeping up either until this thread came around. Steve

hmmm.. how does one know for certain they are JDM original equipment? Mine are good aftermarket ones from Datsun Spirit, and they look just like those in the pics. Is there something etched on the plastic or other markings?

(a) it's Never too far gone...just too expensive to repair. ( worth restoring...for financial gain? No way. For fun--depends on your definition of "fun." That would cost 30k to bring it up to a high quality restoration, based on the number of hours of bodywork I see in that car's future. Unless you can DIY. © If it doesn't run....$500 If it does run... $750 (with bonus value for being East Coast) I say pass. Better candidates abound at the 4-6k range, unless you just love taking on big projects for the fun of it. PS...sad to see that my car's twin was not so well taken care of (5/72 build)

Hmmm...well, seeing as cars spend nearly their entire lives on the ground, I doubt that lifting it for the winter will relieve stress on the chassis. But, if you keep it on the ground all winter it may develop flat(ter) spots on the tires, especially if its race rubber. If you put the car on jacks, I'd recommend removing the wheels to keep the unsprung weight dangling from your suspension to a minimum. Dangling your car for several months has a better potential for damage than just leaving it on the ground. When my car was on jacks for restoration I had jacks at the frame rail near the T/C rod, at the rear frame right where the floorpan ends, and a third pair at the rad support (just in case.) Honestly, from your prior thread (and based on where you live) why put it away? I mean, it's a nice car that certainly looks driveable and it's Maryland, not Buffalo or Cleveland--so drive it periodically through the winter... It's near 80 here in NC, you gotta be getting some of this weather too, right?

I checked the Pertronix site, and they didn't list an Ignitor II for the 240Z, but had one for the Nissan Patrol..is that the one you got? Where'd you pick it up? Thanks, Steve

Randy, I had spotty performance from spray adhesive when used on vinyl attached directly to metal. For that I used Weldwood contact cement (available at Lowe's et al), applied to both sides and allowed to tack up for at least 30 minutes. Apply to metal carefully, as it's tough to reposition. I did some dry runs over the rear wheel areas to be sure it would work out. I used spray adhesive on the luggage riser vinyl, and will have to go back and reapply with contact cement. I did use spray adhesive (bought from an upholstery shop) when attaching vinyl to the trans tunnel padding. It has adhered quite well so far. Good luck, Steve BTW, what's wrong with your old stuff? Won't clean up well? Shredded?

Interesting..looks a lot darker than what Les at CDM sells. Could be the light I guess. Steve

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-Z-Series-1973-240Z-Custom-V8-show-winner-completely-restored_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6187QQihZ014QQitemZ330196706402QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW Pretty spiffy, near stealth conversion, even if you're not into the hybrid scene. I like how the exhause is tucked into the widened rear valence. Even the seats look natural in the cockpit. Except for the dashcap and slightly-too-large wheels (they look like 18s, but 16s give better proportion, IMO), it's a well-done project. Hope this guy gets to recoup a fair amount of his investment... Oooo...my wallet just started to tingle--good thing it's empty!

I hope I'm not hijacking this thread too badly, seeing as Warren and I both are having similar issues... Enrique, I have seen your posts regarding the vac advance in prior threads, and taking your advice I inspected, cleaned and regreased the bearings that hold the advance plate. My mechanism has full action at vacuum around 15-20 in (IIRC), holds vacuum without leaking but that doesn't seem to fix my situation....maybe it will fix Warren's though. Thinking along electrical causes, would a bad ground have a similar effect in this scenario? Or a short in the tachometer loop? Thanks, Steve

Great job! If/when you get bored you could pick up a bunch of those off EBay, Craigslist etc for cheap (since they are "not repairable" right?) repair them and sell them for some extra spending $$$ I couldn't appreciate the degree of damage in the before pics, but the final result looks pleasing--I bet you were satisfied as well!

Carbon fouling is not always from too much fuel. Retarded timing, cold spark/ bad ignition are other things to consider, especially since your nozzle was only lowered 1/2 turn and it fouled the plugs. BTW, did you also check your float level? If it's too high, it will run rich even with "lean" mixture nut settings....

Dude, can I feel your pain! I'm having similar problems--actually almost identical-- except mine stumbles at around 2500-negligible difference I guess. The folks at ZTherapy say baseline fuel mixture should be 2 1/1 turns down from full lock (lean). Maybe changing that will help? What oil is in your piston damper? I currently have ATF but will be going to straight 20-weight (if I can find any) thinking that under load the piston raises too quickly and leans out the mixture too much.... I was running BP6ES plugs and fouling them quite quickly, despite COlortune analysis showing a neutral to lean condition in the combustion chamber...Lean mixture confirmed by raising the piston on the carbs causing the engine to stumble and almost die. This makes me think it's timing or weak spark causing the combustion not to be hot enough to burn off the carbon--I think?!?! I've also read that significant carbon buildup in the combustion chamber and valves can be a cause of something like this, so I'm weighing the Seafoam treatment. Clearly, I'm at the bottom of the barrel of ideas here too! I've tried advancing my timing 5-10 degrees thinking it will make a better burn but it just makes my engine run much rougher...have you tried it? My other thought is that the projected tip of the BP6 plug may get fouled by the incoming fuel mixture...I am planning on locating some B6ES or equivalent plugs to see if this helps, and may go hotter with B5ES Other than that, I'm considering problems with the coil, theoptical distributor and even cam-to-crankshaft timing problems...good luck on yours and PLEASE let me (us) know what fixes your issues... Steve

Interesting about the SM needles, too. Would've been cool to see a side by side comparison, 54 vs SM. 165rwhp is OK. Guy in my local Z club has a cammed L24 with triples that pulls 162 and revs all the way to 7500. Don't know the torque curve on it, though, but he says it's pretty flat until 3000 rpm. I'm betting Little's combo is more fun on the street (since that's what I've done:nervous:) BTW, not much "trick" headwork left to be done on streetable L6s. Most is common knowledge...Here's a nice read while waiting on your head to return: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/TB/70-1050 Covers most of the basics and can be read easily in a day.

bump for more help. As I mentioned before, I have good manifold vacuum, and thebooster holds vacuum within FSM specs...Pedal engagement and feel are normal, except I can't lock the brakes. I suspect I'm not used to the braking system of this car (3 years since driving it) but I don't have an available car for direct comparison. anyone have some other advice? I'd like not to replace a relatively expensive wheel cylinder unless I have to, so chime in with some help.... Thanks, Steve

If that's "all" you're going to do, the rear end swap will be beneficial more for the ratio than the stoutness. From what I've read and other respected opinons have voiced, the R180 is good to around 250hp, potentially higher without shocking the driveline from high RPM drag launch-style clutch drops. The other option is to get some pro headwork done on your E-series head. Sunbelt Performance (as mentioned above) can do headwork to give you near 200hp, with the higher rev limit of the 2.4 block. No need to change the rear end unless you want a better ratio...Not sure of the cost analysis there, (figure 2k?) but certainly well within your budget. ITBs look cool, but I haven't heard much in the way of performance enhancement of stock EFI with aftermarket management (eg megasquirt)...check with the guys at hybridz for more info. Ditto on DIS-type mods. SM needles...where's Beandip? I have the stock 54s on mine (L28/P79) and it supplies plenty of fuel. Just smell my clothes after a tuning session--yuk!) The consensus of those who have experience with them is that they are too narrow a profile and over-enrichen the mixture. You could always buy some extra 54s and grind the profile to suit....

The market will do the deciding on how that car is sold...doubtful he'll meet his reserve unless it's 4000, which is not that bad considering everything as a package. IMO, that's a solid #4 car on a 1-5 auction scale---far from a #2, but everyone's allowed an opinion.... Could use some reasonable pics, though. I don't like that battery area, and the driver's dogleg definitely looks funky.

Threadwinner! Almost spilled my coffee...

Add the cost of shipping such a bulky item, and you're really limited to folks in SoCal, where market prices for not just whole Zs, but reasonably "common" parts, are lower than the rest of the country. The fact they are 280z (not 240Z or even S1 240Z) seats further limits interested parties at that pricepoint. You may get more action on Craigslist or (eek) EBay, but prepared to negotiate down your price. Steve