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Not just any Supra, but the twin turbo 1993-98 Mk IV Supra. Very moddable, visit hybridz.org or MKIVforums for more info http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/index.php http://www.mkivforums.com/vb/ Steve

Well done! Good luck at the show!

The weatherstrip which is attached to the bottom of the door via rivets has two different-length flanges. Based on this picture from the gallery it appears the longer flange goes toward the inside and the short one goes to the outside... ...Can anyone confirm? I thought if the longer flange was inboard it might bind against the rocker sill and contribute to problems with the door shutting correctly. And, with the longer flange outboard it conformed more to the shoulder of the rocker sill. Humble's book (p. 164) only says "...be sure to orient it correctly for a good seal." Thanks, Wick. Verrrrry helpful. So what's the right orientation? Thanks, Steve

Thanks, guys...I ended up only using sealant on the taillights, hatch glass to seal (probably also run a bead along the outer lip of the hatch seal as well) and will ask the pros to add some sealant when they install the windshield...The quarter windows fit so snug no sealant is required, just some adhesive between the seal and the window frame. Steve

Hey everyone! So today begins the reinstallation of weatherstripping on my Z...Been reading and searching on where to use adhesive, sealant or both, and I've had little success in finding straightforward answers...some posts on my search query even used silicone sealant and weatherstrip adhesive interchangeably, so I'm a bit confused....:stupid: (If someone can better find answers, please point me to the thread--thx!) Which seals should get both adhesive AND sealant (silicone) and which should get adhesive only? From the FSM, the windshield gets both adhesive and sealant (seal to body and glass to seal, respectively) but after that it pretty much says only to use adhesive. Are there other places where silicone sealant would be a useful adjunct? I was considering using silicone around the hatch body seals, hatch glass seal and door seals in addition to adhesive; I'd use only adhesive for the quarter windows and cowl to hood seal. Any help would be appreciated.... Thanks again, Steve

Agree...also note the condition of rear suspension pieces, compared with half shafts---partial recondition here as well, which baffles me. If you're taking down the rear suspension (and gas tank, for that matter) why not do the diff and halfshafts while you're at it? And since all that's down, why not clean up the undercarriage? I think ultimately the condition of this car is close to lonetree Steve's sale a few months back. Biggest detriment is the color, IMO. Brown just doesn't say "Buy Me!" as much as red, orange or yellow does. I'm sure it looks great in person (no offense to our brown z owners) but will likely hinder a good bid on EBay where pics mean so much more.... Steve

Sweet!

Well, Ron..I wish you the best of luck and look forward to you showing your competitors the finer points of your rear bumper! This is a good general idea from what the Rest of the Enthusiasts think about our fun Z car: http://www.sportscarmarket.com/profiles/2006/January/Race/index.html FTA: "What we're really talking about here are entry-level, production vintage race cars, a group in which the 240Z is a late, not very desirable example. This is where virtually all vintage race drivers get their feet wet. " "There are a number of factors that force Datsuns into the low-dollar category. The biggest of these is that small- and mid-bore vintage racers are terribly Euro-centric, and Datsuns are just so, so...Japanese. Somehow the image of a cheese-cutter cap, a meerschaum pipe, and a scarf flapping in the wind just doesn't work with a Datsun, particularly not a 240Z." "The other problem is that they're a bit new for the golden era of vintage racing and some clubs won't accept them (however, most will). In Europe the FIA will make you run against Porsche 935s and RSRs, so you're stuck with being a moving chicane in the big leagues, but the local clubs will make room for you to play." Definitely reflects Ron's impressions.. As unfortunate as it may be, if you want to vintage race, go Euro....If you want to race for real, stick with the Z! Steve

Both of mine(5/72) are vertically-oriented...a good 10mm flare nut wrench will take off your brakelines, after a dousing with something like PB Blaster...I used (IIRC) a 16-mm box wrench to hold the flexline stable, then turned the flare nut wrench against that. This should keep you from twisting the S-shaped steel line. BUT, new ones are not expensive, and you may as well change them both while you're at it! Steve

Nice work. I've found the fluorescent light makes the green hues stand out more, while natural light favors the yellow. Let's start The East Coast Lime Z Club! Steve

"perforated ventilators" , derived from Googling "upholstery vent grommet" http://www.decoratorsupplyinc.com/grommet.htm

Glad it got fixed...what ended up being the issue? Or, are you "fixing the problem" by getting a new motor? Steve

Steve: Glad to see you're back at it again with another project! Quick couple questions... 1) Did you buy the car straight off Craigslist, or did you also see it in person? 2) If you bought it without personally inspecting it, how did the transaction go? Any problems with titling/transport? 3) I have a spare set of seat covers (like the ones you used on the recently sold Z) that you may be interested in...:cheeky: (I'm asking only because I'm looking for my next project since my Z is in reassembly, and everything interesting is at least 500 miles from me, so I may have to buy blind:stupid:) Thanks, Steve

Wiki is not always accurate, Mike.... From their website: "No used parts are fitted to the car. From the ground up most components are designed specifically for the Superformance vehicle. This consistent approach to manufacturing and attention to detail results in proven world-class performance with fit and finish second to none. We offer a complete TKM (Turn Key Minus) component vehicle we are Not a Kit, this affords the customer amazing resale value, continuity of build and consistency in Build." http://superformance.com/FAQs.aspx For some this may be splitting hairs, but it's different in vehicle registration/DMV (at least here in NC) and definitely makes a difference with the owners. I can still see the withering look I got when I asked a local SPF Coupe owner if it was titled in NC as a kit car...yikes!

Except that if anyone stated it was a kit car they would be wrong. Replicar would be more correct. The chassis are individually made at a production facility (no need for a "donor"), unique VINs are assigned (it, at least here in NC, is titled as "Superformance" for a make/model designation), then shipped to the US. Similar to the Noble, Ultima, etc which also are not kit cars. Steve

Newsflash: Neither car sold. Thanks, Ric Romero (continue on--this discussion is more informative anyway)

Wow, JimmyZ....great link! (like that avatar, too..made me spit coffee!) BigOak, If it's not the leak from a hose, take it to an expert. Don't muck around with fixing it yourself. Not worth the effort when measured against the risk. I had a good experience with a local rad shop who used RedKote on my tank, at a reasonable price. I suggest you do the same. Good luck, Steve

I'd pass also. Without seeing the floors et al, and knowing what lurks under the fender paint bubbles that's a 2-2.5k car at best. Remember, you can paint the car whatever color you want--that's much cheaper than finding someone to repair the rusty bodywork then have it painted (trust me, I know)--so be patient for the BEST BODY CONDITION car to come along at your price point. If you're willing to pay 4,500 for a car you'd be shocked--shocked! at what you can get for 6k... Good luck, Steve

Looks good, Jim! Keep up the good work, and get that Z back on the road soon! Steve

I bought mine a year ago, without dash or gauges, for just under $500, plus around $70 to ship. IMO, the wiring and gauges are nice, but of limited additional value. I would suggest, if you're Ebay-ing it, to start bids at $200, with a $600 reserve Glad you have a spare to fund extra goodies for your Z!

Car is listed by a FL vintage sports car shop called Wirewheel.com...They always have great cars on their website (most of which get sold right before I get a chance to call them), mostly British...It does look good in the pics, and $3500 may get someone a great deal! http://wirewheel.com/index.php?action=website-view&WebPageID=15945&WebSiteID=409

I hope he gets it. Really. May mean (a) PT Barnum is right ( interest in Z is gaining, or © both Steve

Sorry if this is nit-pickingor getting off topic...1963-1968 Corvettes, 1968-1972 Mustangs, 1969 Camaros immediately come to mind as examples which far outpace the first iteration in collector value. Why? Their refinements were desired by the public. More power, more power, more power is what the public (and the PR guy) wanted and got. 280Z got a little more power, but only to tote around all that extra baggage. Aesthetic improvements helped, too, for those above-mentioned models but sadly that front bumper on the 280Z was clearly a stop-gap modification that didn't get reasonably well-designed until the 1979 280ZX. Unfortunately, the path of the sportscar seems always to get heavier and consequently slower as manufacturers try to widen the appeal of their product. (Current exceptions include MKIV Supra, FD RX-7, C6 vette, 911 etc. ) Musclecars never got into that because the domestic manufacturers started with a small(ish) standard coupe and shoehorned a big displacement engine into it. Steve

Enrique, My thinking was to "flip" the car. Trade for it (no tradebacks, yo!) clean it up some, freshen where you can, then sell it. Happens all the time--purely economics-driven...Hit to the insurance would be minimal, the profit would be reasonable, and you'd have an opportunity to buy a better Z or some other car you'd like to have more... Steve

Kidding aside, if he's willing to trade you straight up, I'd say do it. NADA values for that era vette, even without the L82 option, are MUCH higher than for the Z. Good luck!