xray

I mentioned in post #14 what I thought was wrong. But, as a noob, you as a group far surpassed what I saw... ZHome.com mentioned exterior/interior color combos, which initially got me thinking (silver/black in 1973 with silver/red being a 72 combo.) But, I think I was inferring something that may not have been true. Regards, X

Where was this thread yesterday???? Aauugghh...I've already sacrificed 4 bolts in taking off the front clip, and now must do penance for my errant ways... Where can I find healthy replacement bolts/screws? Any hope in saving those that are original to the car (replating, etc.) Thanks, X

someone needs a diet....from a 78 280Z

Y'all are good. I mean, really good. It's this kind of stuff that makes me glad I joined here. My knowledge base is second-hand, learned through books and websites like zhome.com VIN is 12xxxx, indicating a 1973. Carbs are pre-1973. Man, that air cleaner looks like a repaint Speaking of paint, I read that 1972 240s with silver paint (901) came with red interior. In 1973, they went with black. Also, I have not seen that cool black stripey thing along the hood on any other Zs--maybe not a bad thing I think the speedo is OK--the series I and II (I think) began at 20 mph I actually thought the bumpers looked OK--great pickup, though! I also think the heater panel is OK as I have seen 6-8 1972s (3/72, 5/72 and 6/72 man. dates) with similar layouts.. After that, I defer to the expertise of 26th on what he is hinting at.... X Oh, that chrome lining the wheelwells and doors. Aftermarket?

Saw this ad on Ebay for a nice 72 240z, then something odd caught my eye... anyone else notice it? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2489521240&category=6187

Yeah, Carl...I have been scrutinizing a bunch of Z-car VIN plates, and have found a bunch of variability. I found a 240 from 2/72 with no GVWR mentioned, as well as a 77 280 (which should weigh around 2650) listed as 3200+. I think what ended up happening was starting without the weight, then adding GVWR as the "vehicle only" weight, then finally GVWR as "maximum vehicle" weight. It's the only thing I can come up with that makes sense! X

Great! How did you do it?

OK, everyone...Sorry to rehash, but I couldn't get a great answer after searching the forums. I am upgrading my 32-year old suspension components and really like the feedback and reports I have seen on this site and others about Tokico products. The Z I am restoring will be used as weekend fun driving and hopefully SCCA rally and Solo racing. I have heard Tokico HP is equivalent to the "3" setting of the Illumina, but that's not a good frame of reference for me since I haven't experienced either one...I assume both are a substantial upgrade from the worn out struts I have! Unless I plan on daily driving the car, it seems that the adjustability is not necessary. Opinions? Thanks in advance, X

Not to hijack the thread, but is one brand's suspension bushing kit better than another? G Machine, Energy Suspension, etc. All are urethane bushings made equal?

my Z was also purchased without title. Not required to register or insure in the state of GA. I have tried every avenue in the state to get it titled, but no avail. To give you peace of mind, you could get a VIN search done by a "peace officer" for a small fee. At least that will ensure against someone later getting jealous of your masterpiece and saying "You know, I owned a Z EXACTLY like that, but it was stolen..." I am moving to NC in 8 months, and can also register an old car in that state without title. I will probably pursue a bonded title like mentioned above since there are no age limits. Enjoy your car. No title necessary = no Big House X

Hey folks: need some advice. Stripped the interior over the weekend and was busy inspecting for rust. Unfortunately, found some in the driver's floorpan and against the firewall. Oh, well-not really question of "if" so much as it is "how much" :disappoin To the point, I noticed some surface-looking rust inside the door sill (As you know, it is hollow there with several 2 inch cutouts for wiring) along the inner surface of the metal which makes the outer surface of the car. (Sorry, I am blanking on the right term for it.) It is difficult to see, let alone paint/grind. Has anyone encountered that? Maybe a long-shaft extension and a grinding wheel, followed by mostly blind POR-15 application? Thanks, X

Carl: Thanks for the info. The mystery thickens as 73 production year started in August with VIN 120031 (not much of a chance my car is a clandestine 73). Other info on the site quotes a near-2800 pound weight of the 260Z2+2, and there is NO WAY my car weighs as much as that behemoth (no offense to those who love the 2+2...) Thinking something may be off. Maybe a misprint, maybe Jimmy Hoffa. Who knows? I am stripping the car over the next few weeks, so if I find anything I will let you know. Regards, X

Trojan: I feel your pain...Finally got around to removing front suspension, body panels and interior in search of the rust monster. Little here, little there. The best part is when you check the undercoating with something sharp and it just GOES RIGHT THROUGH the firewall, floorpan, wheel well, etc. Talk about "occult disease." Sheesh! That undercoating is the worst part of the deal, and definitely should come off ASAP. I plan on using advice found here where a heat gun, scraper and 6-pack make pretty good business of that crap. Who knows what's under that stuff...I hope it's not that bad for both our cars.... Regards, X

Thanks for the input.... I guess I should clarify a little...The EBay Z which recently sold for 18K and was discussed under thread "Clean one on EBay" http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2488111164&category=6187 showed a manufacturer's plate listing GVWR as 2400 lbs, roughly split 1280/1120. Manufacture date was 3/72 with VIN 71xxx. Did Nissan change how they reported GVWR in two month's time? Or is there an extra 400lbs of lead in my car somewhere in my vehicle. Guess i just want some insight in to how such a discrepancy can exist between two cars made only two months apart.... I will go get it weighed to see if it's just a misprint.. Thanks!

definitely comes from a 70-71 Z. Speedo begins at 20 mph, which was with the early model from what I recall... Scratch that...missed the km/h...Sorry.

The manufacture plate on my 72 (5/72, VIN 81167) says GVWR 2820 lbs, 1286 FR and 1534 RR. Perusing a lot of threads over the last 90 minutes gave me the impression the car should be about 400 pounds LESS. Any ideas what happened? Anyone have a similar finding? Car has no A/C, normal small bumpers, no excessive smog components...I'm stumped! Thanks, X

I am a husband, father to my 10-month old son and a physician. Even though I'm 33 I should get a partial refund on the last 10 years since I lost them to the jealous mistress of Medical Education, Residency and Fellowship...Just bought a 1972 240z to restore in an effort to regain some balance to my life by recovering a long-lost hobby!

Hmmm...I could be wading into a deep pile of ^&$$^% here, but... I thought flow rate was more than just function of cross-sectional area. I seem to remember Poiseuille's Law which (admittedly dealt with fluid dynamics) stated that flow rate was directly proportional to r^4 and inversely proportional to length of pipe. Big short pipes flow better than long skinny ones, and exhaust flow rate is a major component in motor power. Because all the 240z headers I have seen go down to a single pipe (even MSA's 3 into 2), the limiting factor becomes the radius of that tube, not how many you split into downstream. I presume the flow rate through the one pipe is equal to the flow rate of the six individual header pipes (engineers are pretty smart about this), so as long as your tailpipe isn't smaller, I wonder how much benefit a bigger sized exhaust actually has. Seems to me the better way to go (ideally) is to bore out your exhaust ports and fit them with an oversized header. I think. X

Excellent sound! Did not like the dragging look of them under the car--one speed bump and it's all over...Has anyone been able to get them to fit stock mountings?

Can you repost the link? I am thinking of getting the tiwce pipes system and would love to hear what it sounds like.... X

Hey all: First time poster, so please go easy on me... Just bought what I think is a restorable '72 240z, and I need some opinions. The car is originally Lime Yellow (112 color code), but overpainted red by someone in the past (now faded.) While inspecting the undercarriage for rust, I noticed the undercoating had been painted the original yellow! I owned a '73 240z about 16 years ago, and I don't remember this characteristic. Is this original or part of a prior repaint? If it is original, should I consider stripping the undercoating to upgrade it? It lacks sig rust (so far) in wheel wells, frame rails and floor pans, but does suffer from it around batt ledge, door jambs, and some spots on body panels. I will post pics as soon as I figure out how... Thanks, X