auxilary

I am doing some research to find 5 way regulated solenoids to they can be adjusted on the fly like Tein shocks. If I can find electronic solenoids, great. If not, cable driven. This means 4 cables into the cabin.

jmortensen is running coilovers on his Z, and the beauty of coilovers is that you can select your spring rates

the point of it is so any oil that comes out of your valve cover gets burned in the engine and goes through the cat/smog pump and does not wind up on the road

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=102801 I posted in wheels/tires section but alas, no one looks there. Seriously, I put the wheel on my Z yesterday, it looks damn hot in my opinion. 16x8, Z bolt pattern +10 offset, and way cheaper than VOLK wheels. I'm not pimping these out to make a sale, I don't get any $ out of it, nor the wheels.

what are you asking for it? mileage?

check the original thread on hybridZ for pictures of hte actual wheel on a Z

and if you want to have a really good laugh... for every 3 revolutions of the eccentric (crank) shaft, the rotor makes ONE

pft, it's not a two stroke! 4 stroke combustion process! suck squish bang blow happen in a circle! It just drinks oil like a 2 stroke...

RAZ: I think you misunderstood me: all Z cars with sunroofs that I've seen have leaked. Whether I've seen it from rust spots, mold spots in the liner, or heard complaints from the owners, they leak. My friend David bought a Z with a sunroof. We wound up cutting the roof off a parts car we got and he had the roof skin grafted in place of the sunroof top to convert the car back to solid hull As far as rigidity, I am not implying crash protection. I'm talking weaker structure and looser chassis that will flex more on turns than a non-modified one. Here's the Z I'm talking about with rhe grafted roof: He also had the drip rails shaved

right now: inflames and beatallica

it was a 70s fad to put sunroofs into coupes. Problem is that all sunroofs on S30s leak, and they weaken structural rigidity of the hull

sbc powered mustang give me some time and I'll find you a hemi camaro Who said anything about bigger engines? mine's a 1.3 liter! I was thinking of going to the junkyard, finding a datsun 310, and making a 130Z badging for my car

Does it matter how high the engine revs? No. Why not? Simple... cheap common production engines work like this: more displacement, lower redline. ie. Small block chevy 350 - 5500rpm redline, Honda Civic B16A2 =8-9000 rpm redline. You have to rev the wizz out of the civic motor to get power. My Neon has a 2 liter dohc motor rated at 150hp. I get that 150hp at 6500rpm. My peak torque (all 133ft lbs of it) comes in at 5500rpm. That's a very not useful power band. Chevy 350 makes peak torque at like 2000rpm. Peak power at 5k. Much more useful configuration. Will a chevy have a lower top end? no. Because a. it makes more power, b. it has different gearing. Everyone always ignores gearing! Why are mustangs slower than they should be from factory? Because for put in something like 2.93:1 gearing in the rear pumpkin to retain fuel economy. That's why most ford guys swap'em out for 4.10s or 3.73 gears. BAM! instant improvement. Same reason we Z guys swap in 3.9/4.11 differentials to get more acceleration by sacrificing top end speed. Another example: That honda civic si with hte dohc vtec motor that revs to 9k...has 4.42:1 gearing. That's why at 75mph, it "cruises" at 4000rpm! Drive an LT1 camaro with stock gearing and a 6 speed, and at 75mph you're turning about 1800rpm in 6th. And you can get 25-28 mpg on the freeway out of that v8 Returning to the question: Which design is older? in the following order: flathead v8 ohc design rotary pushrod design Is it worth the trouble? You can do a v8 swap for under 2k. result would be a Z that's 150lbs heavier than stock and makes about 235-250hp and about 300-320 ft lbs of torque. Given the options, it's an easy sacrifice of power to weight, since it'd be like always having a passenger in your car. IMO, a properly done v8 swap that includes an engine either as light as stock, or lighter than stock is a way to go for several reasons: 1. power. lots of it. cheap. 2. ease and cost of parts: chevy blocks have been made in same configuration since 1955, and ford about the same. 3. properly configured v8 swapped Z can handle better than an L-powered Z and weigh just as much or less which engine style is better? Depends what you want and how deep your pockets are. Here are some engines I've seen in person and on hybridZ people's profiles: L24/26/28/L-stroker motor + turbo L28 + supercharger off a grand prix SC L28 twin turbo LC2 (buick grand national turbo v6) SBC 305/350/355/383/LT1/454 LS1/LS6 and someone just bought an LS2 (new gto) Ford 5.0/289/351 BMW I6/V12 Jaguar V12 Turbo Diesel L28 Electric Z Rotary (that would be me) SR20DET RB20det/RB25det/rb26dett 426 hemi 360 mopar viper v10 and a lot more I can't think off top of my head What would I prefer? If I had to do it over again, I'd do an LS1

or paid someone to do it. I don't know if the owner actually built the car himself. To me, a checkbook mechanic is worth less than a guy who bought an already built/converted car. If he did the swap himself, props. I have nothing against the owner, the car IS cool. Problem is that it has way too much overexposure on all forums

wiring issue, probably a bad ground on the cd player

Don't have any good kill stories with the Z.... but here's one I was at a stoplight, minding my own business when a civic with a fart can lines up next to me. I think nothing of it, until he starts revving the wizz out of his D16 block (Oh no, sohc non vtec power!). I quivered in fear. Light turns green, I slipdrop the clutch, front wheel lifts in the air ever so softly, touches down, I hit redline at 13k, shift into 2nd, and let off the gas around 8 He's buslengths behind me. Why people try to race motorcycles, I don't know.

I just don't want to deal with the excess of lines and plumbing going all over the place. The 73/4 have some weird setup where the front MC line goes into a prop valve, that in turn splits into 2 lines to front brakes and then goes to another prop valve that goes to the rear. They're not adjustable, and I want to have the ability to adjust. Another reason for taking it out is difference in required pressure for 240sx calipers vs. stock drums. I don't know of anyone using a 280zx prop valve for a rear disk swap, first I've heard of it?

**** that Twin Turbo q45 Z. I'm sick of seeing it. I don't care how cool and nifty it looks, it's more played out than chinese prostitute. I've seen that car posted more than Darius's videos, and not a week goes by when some newbie pops up on hybridz and goes "WHOA! Check out this blue Z with a twin turbo v8!!!!!!" Of course, we forego the fact that it was posted on hybridZ first by the guy that runs the site, Erik Neyerlin (he actually lives out close by me) Oh and of course, I won't mention that this car ALREADY got posted in this thread :stupid: :stupid: :stupid: :stupid: :stupid: :stupid: *steps off soapbox*

nope, because it's easier to swap in an l28et with efi turbo and it's higher displacement Another company used to make a supercharger for the L24 too

actually there was a guy by the name of Turbo Tom (he recently passed away) who used to make Tom's turbo kits for the L24. It was a carb'd turbo setup that made some pretty good power (around 230-250 at the crank) from the L24.

. Rotaries don't have cylinders. Kinda kills half of your idea Here's a basic diagram how a rotary functions: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/rotary-engine7.htm It came with a twin turbo from factory as you can see above. A small turbo for low boost (starts boosting at 2krpm) and a larger turbo to switch over at 4000 rpm. Sequential turbos tend to go out of order, costly, and more expensive to maintain. I opted to convert to single because of those reasons, and especially since the twin turbos don't clear the frame rail on the Z

Here's a nice detailed thread of why not to use 280zx rear disk conversion: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=82790&highlight=rear+disk+rebuild http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=69575&highlight=280zx+caliper+adjustment apparently for constant periodic readjustment required, some failures...food for thought

Where my loyalties lie? Oh man, had to get a good laugh out of that one. I don't have brand loyalties. I think brand loyalties are stupid and lame, especially when it comes to cars. The whole concept of "how could you put xx engine into a Z?" makes me laugh. Allow me to present an example of 3 people groups: regular omnivores vegetarians vegans Omnivores eat from all food groups. They're ok with salads, meat, chicken, fish, eggs, milk. Vegetarians don't eat meat, but eat dairy products Vegans are nutjobs that won't touch anything that is animal or animal byproduct. no milk, cheese, butter, etc. they look down on vegetarians as much as on omnivores How this relates to Z owners? Like this: omnivors are like your regular run of the mill Z owners, including hybrid Z owners. vegetarians are like people who stick to swapping only nissan components into Zs vegans relate to absolute purists who gag on the thought of anything other than OEM parts on a Z. Who will also look down on the thought of an L28 in a Z IMO, when you swap an engine into a Z, it's no longer original. Doesn't matter if it's a nissan motor, chevy, etc. As long as it's not OEM, it's now a hybrid. I will never understand purists who maintain the Z must remain original with all nissan equipment. I can understand a full factory restoration and admire it, but that's about it. Back to where my loyalties lie... Seeing as how I defend chevy, ford, and rotary swaps... I simply can't bear the thought of anything but an L24 in a 240z. I think your assumptions are wrong. sidenote: nissan had a prototype 2 rotor datsun 240z in the early 70s. Just like Ford had a 2 rotor mustang, chevy had a 2 and 4 rotor corvette prototypes, and such. The oil crisis that followed forced other manufacturers to abort rotary research since rotaries are't known for fuel efficiency

OK, let's back up here. Peugeot had 2 valve DOHC motors in 1913. Alfa Romeo used DOHC design in 1925, I think. Ford was using them in their race cars in 1920s as well. First OHV (over head valve) engine was introduced by GM in 1949 in an Oldsmobile. Back then, OHV design was way cheaper to produce, had less moving parts, thus less parts needing to be replaced. So what I'm saying that overhead cam technology is older than pushrod technology. So technically speaking, you can't call chevy pushrod engines dinosaur engines because they are, in fact, newer. Is OHC design better than OHV? In today's world with computer controlled EFI, it is. For ease, reliability, cost, and simplicity, OHV wins. We won't count 80s GM and Ford motors, because they're all piles of crap. Especially ford 3.8L v6s that are prone to blow head gaskets when you sneeze. Today, it's hard to beat the LS1/LS6/LS2 motors for the price. You can buy an all aluminum block LS1, t56 transmission, ecu and wiring harness for 3500-4500 that is underrated at 310 hp (325hp for SS) with all smog equipment attached by GM. Z28 and camaro SS owners will tell you that their cars normally produce 280rwhp for a stock z28, and about 285-290 for the SS models. Assuming 18% drivetrain loss, that's about 330 crank hp for the base Z28. Remove all smog equipment (the 4 or 6 cats, whatever the camaro has), put in a set of headers and a nice freeflowing exhaust system into the Z, and an intake setup... And you wind up with about 350-370crank hp motor that weighs a hair less than the Z stock motor... and with better weight distribution per correct mount kit. Hard to beat that Local hybridZ member's LS1 powered Z that runs low 12s/high 11s Is Z motor a derivative of a mercedes Lseries motor? Nissan bought out Prince Motor Company in 1966, and acquired their SOHC L series design. There are rumors that Nissan was paying royalties to Mercedes for their engine design, but I can't find proof. Like you said, the nissan L series 4 cyl is a derivative copy of a mercedes L24 SOHC from the 220, and the Z motor is that 4 cylinder + 2 more cylinders. However, there's no official documentation I can find to actually prove that fact (I'm not disagreeing with you). I'm looking at 45/55 weight distribution, and probably 2150-2200lbs weight fully loaded wet, with a rollbar. My biggest concern is front end being too light

that's exactly what I'm doing. Running a rear line from the rear MC plug straight to the rear brakes with a prop valve inline