auxilary

Half shaft ujoint is the weakest link in the driveline.

You're right. Paul newman didn't race a Z car with a twin turbo president v8 motor.

I have falken ziex 512s on my neon right now, in 205/60/14. The foot print is not as wide as an equivalent would be of yokohama es100s, for example. They aren't very sticky, but do last for a bit. I've been running them since august. if you can spend extra dough, I'd get es100s instead. I have those on my Z in 225/50/15

350-400 usd minimum. Keep in mind that an LSD r180 will be stronger and hold up to more abuse than a peg leg r200.

everyone forgets teh most important factor in using a spring compressor. IT HAS TO BE GREASED!

HAHAHHA yeah. If you guys want a laugh... Wayne sent me pics of my own car that I posted on hybrid Z and said "alex, check it out, someone's doing a rotary swap too! maybe you can get some ideas!"

heh. to my knowledge, only POKINATCHA on hybridZ was doing the rotary conversion besides me, and he started a couple weeks after I did. He disappeared, and I haven't heard from him in quite a while. Aside from that, I'm not aware of anyone else. I've only heard about rotary Z cars, no one has ever documented one, let alone even have a picture of one. As far as I know, I'm the first one to publically document it

with camaro radiator mounted, waterpump housing from turbo2 rx7, waterpump. To give you ideas of how much space is available. Should've opted for 3 rotor

http://www.reactionresearch.com/automotivedetails.htm

you can fill through the tube. r180 is 1.1 or 1.2 quarts, r200 is 1.5, if memory serves. Not all is lost, go to a junkyard, find a matching diff, take that diff. cover and replace yours with it. you can fill through the overflow tube, and you can top off - worst that will happen is excess will overflow out of that tube, and cover your diff in oil. but you'll know you have enough

Got a ways to go, had to completely scrap and redesign teh mounts. Side mounts didn't fare too well, so I opted to cheat, and used an '82 12a rx-7 front engine cover with front mount bolt points (same as 510 guys use). Will have to modify the oilpan, but otherwise now it's bolted to the crossmember. have to add a few reinforcements here and there, and a panhard type bar for the side of hte motor so it doesn't travel left/right on turns. Motor is a 13B-RE, originaly twin turbo, now converted to single garrett t04s 60-1. Fuel is managed through a parallel -6an fuel rail setup, fed by -8an line from a fuel cell, into 550cc primary, and 1,680cc secondaries. Transmission is an rx7 turbo unit, and it even bolts up to the stock location The only downside is that this combo puts oilpan really low to the ground....a little bit below frame rails.

I have a request: do you have any clear pictures of your intercooler install, core dimensions and specs? If so, please post'em!

how much lighter is it? about 200 lbs if not more. cost of conversion? upwards of 6-7k USD to do everything right, and some fabrication skills

well, your first 2 gears are going to be relatively useless. You might seriously want to look into an r230 with 3.54 gears, because 3.9 will keep you roasting tires all day long.

v8 folk favor 3.54 gearing because it provides a good combination between ample acceleration and freeway cruising at low RPM. If you want best off the line launches, limited slip 3.7 is something you want to look into. gearing is gearing, so if 4.10 gears work on a camaro, they'll work on a Z in same ratio

Some corrections: it's not the amount of horsepower a rear end will accomodate, but the torque. R180 will not hold up to more than 300ft lbs for prolonged periods of time (hard launches). r200 will hold up to about 400-450 ft lbs of torque. Those aren't your weakest link, however. Your half shafts are. They're prone to snapping ~350 ft lbs. You can use an r200, but convert it to CV axle. I'd personally recommend an r200 lsd from an 88-89 turbo 300zx with cv axle swap. Pretty much bulletproof. Another option which requires more money and time is the r230 from a q45. Viscous lsd in 3.545 gearing, basically an independent rear 9" diff.

I have to revise the motormounts, and remount the turbo - just lots of tedious work :| one day it'll run, honest! Maybe I'll even bring it to the next Rio vista show. Maybe...

Hey Carl, long time no see. You actually met my friend AJ (the wingnut) at the rio vista show - he was the guy with a '72 police package plymouth fury. We finished everything in about 2 hours. Initially I thought the problem was elsewhere. When wingnut brought the car in, the clutch pedal had almost no pressure. Flushed tranny fluid (stupid filler plug was bolted solid, couldn't move it, so I filled it through the reverse plug). yanked out master and slave cyliders, replaced them (used MC and slave from my 240z), replaced line, new gear oil in the differential. Put cleaned out the clutch lines, adjusted the MC rod, put it all back in, bled the line, wingnut took it around the block a couple of times, it runs like a champ! I had a wrong diagnosis of the problem based on the description, but it's all good now.

I've got an NPR IC I am willing to part with for pretty cheap. Caveat is the pipes at the ends are a little hacked off, I'll take pictures of it if you're interested. By cheap I mean under $150.

just so you guys know, the wheel turn test is NOT an accurate test if the spider gear is shot, or the previous owner welded up the differential. True test is to pull off the diff. cover and look inside

Z peg leg differentials grip pretty well without limited slip, so it's not surprising you left 2 strips. However, you have an open differential, otherwise both wheels would spin in hte same direction when you turn one wheel in neutral.

I would. if that nut goes, so does your wheel. My torque wrench also went up to only 150. I have a 220 ft lbs impact gun, so I just ran that in until it started clicking. You could probably also go about 3/4 turn past the 150 ft lbs mark, and that should be ok.

Lightweight first generation toyota MR2 seats in good condition - no tears or cuts, just need a good steam cleaning. Driver's side is a 10 way adjustable including angled headrest, adjustable lumbar, adjustable thigh support, and adjustable side bolsters! This is an excellent cheap semi-race seat that will hold you in tight Brackets are welded into place that allow you to bolt these right into a 240-280Z cars: you just have to drill a couple of holes. Grade 8 bolts and nuts provided. I used these for a year, and now I'm selling them because I have something better. $110 for both seats + brackets, local pickup only - Bay Area, California. Email me if interested - alex@datsunracing.com

borla part 40359, center/offcenter configuration, 14"x4x9.5" body, 19" long with ends. 3" inlet, 3" outlet, stainless steel muffler. Link to Borla's information: http://borla.com/proxs/pages/muflroff_ctr.php?cartID=2004062319385024.7.30.121 Never used, just opened the box. $70 + shipping. email me at alex@datsunracing.com

perhaps you're posting in the wrong forum. This forum is clearly titled "modified Z car" Who said a chevy v8 is unreliable? Do you have proof of the 350 block that's properly built being unreliable? Here's a quick comparison: ls1 v8 from a 4th gen camaro makes about 340 (underrated by GM) at the crank with all accessories on it as well as stock exhaust. It weighs less than the stock L6. it sits back further in the Z than the stock L6. I can get one with transmission, ecu, clutch with less than 40k miles on it for about $4500. quote me how much it would take to build up a naturally aspirated L6 that would make equivalent horsepower (not torque, because then you wouldn't have a case) AND be able to run on pump gas. FWIW, rebello 3.1 stroker kits top out around 260hp as far as pump gas goes. You could do turbo.... but then again, you'd run into an issue of stock top end on the l28et giving out around 300hp. Of course, then you could make mild mods to the ls1, and make 400hp with ease... ps. never heard of an ls1 engine failing or being unreliable...have you?