NZeder

I agree with this. A good epoxy primer is the only way to go. My brother is in the striping business here in NZ (dry striping, using garnett) and he alway recommends to customers to spend the extra $$ on a good epoxy primer. Would not want to do the whole thing again in 10 years time due to rust under the paint due to porus primer.

Steve, Rick, Sold the bike last year when I became a dad for the first time - miss it but I now instead of going for a ride I spend time with my son. Did I do it because they are not safe - hell no if I thought like that I would never have got into bikes in the first place. I would still have it today if I had the time - the usual story bike sold so we could get a station wagon/hatchback. No 4wd though - I don't like the idea/mentality its bigger must be safer (even though I live in the country and a 4wd would be hand for the farm I just don't buy the whole SUV scam - there are next to no 4wd in my neighbourhood and we all live on unsealed roads - however when I drive to work in the city all I see is f'n 4wd's what's up with that?) It is like all these new cars with 8 airbags, ABS, traction control etc. Why? Are they safer? Yes but this is not the cause of the accidents, it is the drivers. Why should we as consumer have to buy into the new safer SUV etc mentality when even an old car is safe if it is never in an accident. All these systems only cause problems I have a new 2003 company car with all these things and the next service (this week) I will be having the side airbags fixed for the forth time. I would hate to own it myself in a few years when it is not under a warranty. Here in NZ a number of year ago there was a level crossing accident ever few months (level crossing = train crossing - unmarked ie no bell or lights). Hell if these drivers can't see something a big as a train what chance do you and I have in any car/bike. So education is the key to reducing road tolls not safer cars. Don't know about you guys but I don't buy a car to crash it. However there are idiots out there (usually with no insurance and car that is not fit for the road). So I will continue to drive my old 70's cars even if they are not as safe as the newer cars - why because they have character, a sole and they need to be driven.

Is this the same if you are using MSnSe? Or just for the stock ECU?

That Jag reminds me of the Tom Walkinshaw Jags that ran at Bathurst back in the 80's - For the Aussies on the site - you know back in the day when there were more than just 2 makes of cars (Ford and Holden). Guys thanks for the pics and keep them coming just love to see old racecars still on the track doing what they were build to do.

A-men to that buddy.

You can look over the tasie - there are a few here in NZ - they come up for sale every now and then. Other option - import LHD from US and using 2+2 bits convert to RHD.

Opps missed that - just a bit upset about head-on of late see below. The Haruaki Plains is a long (long by NZ standard anyway) straight bit of road and this type of accident happens a few times a year. Cause is usually fatigue. Well the brother in-law last week was also involved in a head-on on the open road (he was doing 90km/h - the other driver?? still waiting the police report). He was driving a 89 Nissan Skyline GTS (R32 4 door with RB25DE) home from work when a young guy coming down the road lost control of his car. Speeding - got the rear wheel on the shoulder i.e. gravel and spun across the road into my bro in-law. The impact was a little to left but still head-on (the other car was sideways - a Subaru wagon). The bro in-law had no time to react so full impact. The accident caused the taillights to pop out (bent the chassis) and the passengers doors won't open the car is a write off (he is using my Datsun 710 (160JSSS) to get to work for now). The R32 does not have any more safety features than the old S30, no airbag, ABS, etc. So how is the bro in-law? He walked away from the accident with bad bruising and some torn chest muscles. The other driver - walked away also but is in big trouble with the police due to the nature of the crash (we have been told he was luck no one was walking, cycling up the road or they would not be here today and if either car had passengers the same result would have occurred) They say most accidents happen with-in a 3km radius from home well my bro in-laws happened just 2km from home.

How a Zed and it young passengers should never end up. This is what happens when a Zed is hit almost head on at open road speeds (100km/h). Full story here NZ Hearld Article Edit - changed title

LY good luck finding one of these rare beasts. LY = Crossflow head = Factory Rally cars. If you find one you better sell your house, wife and first born. Is the cross flow worth it? I read that it only flowed a 5% improvement over a well setup non-cross flow. Nissan heads that I know of that came with the L6 Series (some on L20a, L20et, L24, L26, L28e and L28et. E30, E31, E88, N42, N47, P79, P90, P90a, O5L. I am sure there are others that I have missed. SeeZgarage for difference between the E31, E88, N42, N47, P79, P90 and P90a heads

Excellent to see Big Sam back and to get an invite to such a festival is a real credit to the race history of the car and to all the work that has gone in to get the back on the road/track again. Congrads to the owner NickH.

I know in the part of the world many of the 70's japanese cars are going up in value and popularity. Those with racing history like the Zed and Datsun 1600sss more so. Zed don't come up for sale much these days as most are sold/change hands without advertising or are like mine in a shed/workshop soon to be on the road again. The young guys seem to be purchasing any old RWD drive car they can, fit big modern engines with turbos and go drift'n. Would love to see the pics.

I can look after it for you

Guys, Just incase you don't know by right now there are 3 240K's for sale on NZ Trademe.co.nz (NZ ebay). see http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Cars/Other/auction-29659037.htm http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Cars/Other/auction-29737997.htm http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Cars/Nissan/auction-29934773.htm

I believe the guys in Japan use the L20ET on the L28 also as far as I know on the USA got the L28ET. A number of guys here in NZ have used the L20ET in the past so yes I believe they are the same setup. Hope this helps Cheers Mike

Yes that would be an excellent idea - targa is popular in NZ now with a number of S30 taking part also.

I just love reading about the differences between these rare cars - thanks again Alan for pointing out the differences between the PZ and PZR. I have read a few Datsun Z books over the years and some of the info/stats are not factually correct or bias to one market. Alan you don't want to write a book?

Alan you don't happen to have the ISBN of the Car Graphic book? I would love to get my hands on a copy - I have always loved the history behind the R380 and the prince engine developments. Only if I had an enless supply of $$ I can se the R380 (replica would do) next to my Z in the garage (and while I am dreaming how about a track car = R390)

I was sent these photos also - from our Australian office - they were taken near one of our plants in WA Bunbury I believe. I work for a company that is in the crop protection business.

Were/who makes the forged set that uses the L20A rods? Here in NZ there are a number of the L20A engines but finding L14 rods is like finding the golden goose. I already the the LD crank - just need to sort rods and pistons - I was thinking about the L14 rods Kameari path or the Kameari rod and piston.

I believe the 4 holes need redrilling - the peugeot rotors are much closer to the original vented rotor for the Mk63 vented capiler. I am going by memory here (as my doc are in storage) so Alan please chime in and correct me. I believe the original rotors were the following spec. 272mm diameter 20mm thick 43.5mm hat for later 260z hubs 81mm centre bore 4 holes at ??? The 300zx is as shown above but I will repeat here 274mm diameter 22mm thick (these are a bit thick for the new pads I got so I had to get .5mm taken off the pads by the brake machinest) 35.5mm hat (so I had a 8mm space made and used longer bolts) 81mm centre bore 4 holes at ??? same as the hub The peugeot 505 vented rotor 273mm diameter 20mm thick 43mm hat 76mm centre bore (will need taking out to 81mm - but check first) 4 holes at ??? will need redrilling as not the same So I should have gone the peugeot rotor path as I would not have had to buy extra bolts, spacers etc but I didn't go down this path, I would need to get new rotors machined when ever I replaced them - I don't think that would be that often as my car when it comes back onto the road will not see too much track time so they should last a long time. Never know I still might do the peugeot thing next time I come to replace the rotors as 300zx 4 bolt rotors are becoming harder to get here in NZ these days.

Alan, Thanks for the PICs this helps alot - re the rotors I was thinking about the Peugeot rotors all those years ago but went the 300zx with spacer path as I now don't have to get any new rotors machined once I had the spacers made. Ahmed - I have just looked up the DBA catalogue I have on my PC (PDF format) and the here is the info

Cool - knew Alan or someone would know the answer re the FIA vented vs non vented question. I will see if I can find the casting number of my capilers - so I can now assume that I have the non vented that someone put spacer between that I then copied on the other set I had at the time.

I am in the stick another L6 in - but if you want to do the 4 cylinder path try visiting hybridz.org there are a number of guys that have or are doing SR20DE or SR20DET swaps.

Believe it or not but I go new pad from the States for my set including a number of seal kits and new pistons - I ordered these about 5 years ago so I don't know if you can still get them - I will do a quick search. I ordered them from Nissan Motorsport catalogue I have (in a box in storage right now so can't get the phone number easily). They were not cheap that is why I keep the new pads for myself and the set I sold I had new pad metrical bonded and riveted to the old backings locally. I sold the other set which included the following - new 300zx 4 bolt rotors, spares for the rotors, new pads (made as stated above) and a seal kit for $500 NZD which at the time was about $270 USD but now that would be $350 USD - I would say I sold them too cheap given how rare they are and given that they could be used in some classic racing classes (were others would have to stick with the stock 2 pot units) Courtesy Nissan still show that they can sell the capiler pistons, new capiler and the installation kits so they might be able to get the seal kits and the pads - if you look at the capilers you will see that they come with pads so that is a good sign. See CourtestPart - FIA Capiler/Parts for S30 re the spacer sizing - capilers are in storage right now and I am about to fly overseas on a business trip for 4 weeks so if you can wait that long I will dig them out and take some measurements - will also take measurements of the spaces used for the rotors re why did the spacer thing - one of the sets FIA I had already had spacer and a vented rotor setup - they were original FIA Nissan Motorsport 240z Vented rotors and capilers - so I was lead to believe (I got these after a good friend and Zed nut who passed away) - also the Nissan Motorsport catalogue I have confirms that there was an option of FIA vented setup for both the front and rear of the 240z/260z/280z, however the rears did not include a e-brake ie race only application. I did price up the Nissan Motorsport vented rotors (as the one I had needed replacing) but at $350 USD each (over $700 NZD including taxes each, at the time) I did not order them just the capiler pistons, pads etc. I then spent 1/2 day looking over rotor catalogue to find a rotor close to the FIA unit - the closest was the that rquired the least amount of mods were 300zx 4 bolt units - so a spacer was made up to locate these at the same spec as the original units. The capilers I had FIA vented set and FIA non vented set were the same apart from the small factory spacer between the capiler half - so the vented set was pulled apart and the spacer copied by the machine shop. I hope all this info is of use.