AChev

I am in the same boat as mrximus, I am in the process of choosing a color to paint a car soon (i hope). When I saw this color I thought it was fantastic. Apparently the caption under it said it was a classic fairlady Z. Maybe some of the paint buffs can help me identify this color, it think it is beautiful. *The photo came from aliene's gallery*

Hmm... Actually recently on other bodywork forums, I have read about many modern methods that I have never seen on this board. I know many here are "classic z" fans, as am I. I am just stating I never read about many modern bodywork methods on this site. Maybe some of our sites body gurus could bless us with some information....

The bolts that I came across earlier this evening aren't worth replating (as Ed said); many of the fender bolts were rusted and mishapen, so I would not want to put them back on my car ,even when replated. I think I will be doing a mixture of both. Reusing bolts in good condition, replating essential larger bolts, and replacing those not fit for my car. Thanks for the help guys Sorry, I did not intend to take over your thread :tapemouth

I was curious about wire harness restoration. I am very close to the point where I will be removing the wireharness, because everything else is practically removed. I was only planning on replacing wire harness sections that were necessary, such as maybe a meled wire. Other than that I had planned on not touching anything. Although I began to think that I am only going to have the car in this condition maybe once, so I should do as much as possible. So would the best policy be to replace as much as I can? Although it was all working when I disassembled the car, and the connectors were in good condition, so I didn't think it would be necessary to do much more work on it, other than rewrap and some cleaning up. I was having mixed thoughts.

Once I get to assembly (not there yet) I planned on just replacing the most nuts, bolts, and washers. Are there any disadvantages to doing that? It seems to make more sense, as getting them plated and having to figure out what is what seems very time consuming, when a run to the hardware store for some stainless steel seems easier, and maybe even cost effective ( I do not know about the cost of platers)

I was surprised, after I saw the pictures of your dry ice I expected the chunks to be large. Although when i got mine each piece was the shape of a tootsie rool, almost exactly the same.

Under the majorty of the tar mats there was no rust, except for the floor boards. Transmission tunnel, and hatch bed were good! Many guys remove floormats if they are doing full restorations, they want to get rid of the old, gross, problemful mats. Eventually the mats will trap moisture and cause problems, so for a full resoration guys normally remove them so the entire car can be painted, then new sound deadening or thermal insulation can be installed

This may sound like a stupid solution, but did you try recharging your battery entirely?

If you post them, please put a link here so we all can view!

Superdave, thanks for the write up. I took your advice and gave it a whirl on my hatch bed. It worked excellent! After doing the entire transmission tunnel and floor boards by hand, the dry ice was a gift from heaven. The clean up with the dry ice is minimal! If the dry ice technique is done when it is fairly chilly outside no water condenses on the ice. So therefore there is no clean up other than the pieces of tar paper that are removed, and they get as large as 6" x 12". Because the pieces of tar mat are removed so easily, there is barely any residue left behind, so the need for xylene and scrubbing will be minimal Although I did have one problem. I did not purchase enough dry ice. When I got to the dry ice place, about 20 min. from my house, it turns out I only had $5 so I could only get 3 lbs. It just barely covered it, but the sections that had more dry ice on them came up significantly easier. Even 3 lbs. was enough to make the job only take about 20 min. of labor after the dry ice sets in. Sorry I could not post my pictures yet All in all, a perfect thumbs up. I recommend it to all who need to remove tar paper

So far all I could get was "Looking Back, Racing Forward: The Z-car has been raced for 35 years; we salute this motorsport milestone." I can wait to see your photos in there. Congratulations, I'll bet that gives you an excellent feeling inside.

On the pulley there is a small nick which is on the exterior rim of the wheel. It is easiest if you mark the notch with something like a paint marker, makes it easier to see when timing. If you roll the car in neutral, and push it slowly, and watch the wheel, you should see the small notch eventually. I guess if you don'y it doesnt really matter beacuse once you get the timing gun going you should see it anyways. The haynes manual recommends 10 degrees at 550rpms idle, although that is slow, most have theirs set to about 750rpms. Hope this helps

I was thinking about using the dry ice technique, for I am having one hell of a time with the transmission tunnel. I did the floors, and they weren't too bad, the tunnel is worse for me. Although I had some thoughts and concerns with the day ice maybe somebody can help clear this up. Is it possible to damage the metal by exposing it to such cold temperatures, maybe even crack it? We have all seen objects such as tennis balls surrounded in dry ice, and then they shatter like glass. I just need some re-assurance

You said you lifter up the carpet to check if there was rust there. Does youre car not have the tar paper linging on the floor? If you did not remove it, that should be there covering up the metal

I see your point Carl. It was not meant to be seen as a penchant for initiating a lie. For example if Ed rolled back his odometer and got caught, however slim the chances are, that could be a logical answer. Was said to help Ed make a decision, not just to out right lie. I am a person of morals, I do not lie unless it is completely necessary. About GWB, nobody could tell me he has a brain without me laughing in their face - Just a joke I do not want to start political discussion on Ed's thread

Yea, but he could just say his broke and he had to replace it with a new one. Plus the actual mileage isn't on a Z odometer anyway with the absence of 100,000 digit

$750 would be a good deal even if you were just getting the rebuilt engine and transmission! As for paint, it can range anywhere from $400 (Maaco) to thousands of dollars, depending on what you want done and what quality. Also you should eventually be making the decision of how much of the car you want painted, like just the exterior or engine bay too, ect. The more you do the longer it will take, but the better the end product, and the longer the car will last. I am sure others will chime in

Carl does bring up a good point. Although I totally can see where Ed is coming from on this. Taking the Z first drive, pulling out of his drive, looking at a clean slate, all zeros, it would be an awesome sensation. Tough decision

Hmm, such a simple decision, but it seems so important. Doing as much as you have done on that car, which is a complete restoration of everything, I think you should have the complete right to roll it back to zero, despite what any authority figues might say. I know that you have restored everything on that car, it is almost as if it is reborn. Good Luck on your decision

Man do I wish I lived in Rio Linda

This may sounds like a stupid question but, did you try adjusting the carbs using the idle screws yet? There is one on each carb, when you adjust them you have to make sure the screws are turned eqivelantly. Also check the screw the is on the throttle linkage (I forget the name of it, my manual is not with me) the can be used to increase or depress throttle idle. Edit: I am sorry, you will have to disregard this, I forgot that you have Weber Carbs instead of SUs