Everything posted by AChev
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L28 Engine For Sale
L28 280Z engine from 1st generation 280Z (S30 chassis) with alternator and fan clutch attached. This engine was given to me years ago (~2006). I have not run it, it was stored in garage for entire time it was in my possession. $200 OBO - The engine will be sold AS-IS and is at minimum good for parts. I can help you load via our fork-lift or engine crane. Engine stand is not included. The engine is located in PA in the Lehigh Valley Please PM me if you are interested.
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1973 240Z PROJECT CAR + PARTS: NEED TO SELL ASAP- Allentown, PA region
Ok, so the time has come so I have to bite the bullet and sell the project for several reasons. I wrote a thread about this vehicle a few weeks ago, now I've returned from my vacations with even less time to sell the car. This vehicle/parts lot needs to be sold by the 24th of August, I'm running out of time. The long and the short of it is, the vehicle was a project I started a long while ago, got in to deep, and now am moving out of the house and my garage space allotment is no longer. I purchased the vehicle the 1973 240Z in 2003, it had a 4 spd manual. When purchased it ran and drove very well, everything was functional and in tact. All head lights an tailights remain un cracked. The dashboard has a few light cracks from weathering, all though it remains in excellent condition. The seats are in fantastic condition with only a small, roughly a half an inch long tear on the passengers seat. Both windshield are fully intact with no cracks. There is light rust around the windsheild with a hole about a dime in size. There was also a small rust hole in the usual cowel spot on the drivers side fender. The floorboards were fairly rusted, not too badly though, hence the purchase of the floor panels (later mentioned). Orginal jack and wheel chocks in cluded. Since then the vehicle has ben completely stripped all parts were shelved, all bolts were placed in plastic ziplock bags and labeled appropriately. I completely stand by my word that all parts that were originally on the vehicle have not been lost and are all accounted for. Since accquiring the vehicle I have purchased the following for it which are all including in the sale: L28 engine - bored out .030", high compression pistons, hot cam.- purchased from previous owner of the car, he verified that it ran Full set of Tokico HP shocks and springs Complete set of urethane bushings Floor panels and frame rails from Zedd Findings I also sand blasted and refinished all front suspension components with a rust proofer and coated in chassis black from EastWood. As it stands, the vehicle is a bare shell with back suspension and diff still attached so you can pick up the front of the car and move it easily to push it in and out of a truck. The original engine is also included in the sale, although it has been dismantled so I could move it into the basement. All parts were kept in excellent condition and would be an easy rebuild. All other parts are in my garage on shelves. Any reaonable offers considered Anybody interested feel free to contact me with any questions or concerns Phone: 484-515-9681 E-mail: ars82@Pitt.edu I will be posting photos of the vehicle in its current condition, and also how it appeared before I stripped it.
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Project Halted - What to do?
Yea, I assume you all are correct. I don't really have too much of a choice, and if I had a chance to go back I would have still purchased the vehicle, excellent experience, plus it resulted in a great tool collection. As much as I would like to take a little time each week working on it, an internship is slightly more important to put the time into. I still get my automotive fix while at school through our Formula SAE team, which keeps me goin while I'm there. I'm located in Emmaus right outside Allentown. I guess I'll have to create a classified tomorrow. If anyone on this thread is interested just let me know. Thanks for the advice guys, it helps out hearing it from older guys who have gone through the same thing
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Project Halted - What to do?
Ok so I purchased a 1973 that ran and was in fairly good condition, it needed some paint and minor rust repair and that was it. The car was fully complete and ran very well. I began stripping the car with the intention that if I wanted to paint the car I would like to have it done correctly. Then I eventually gained the mindset if I was stripping the car I might as well do everything there is to do. Then my summers began to consist of full time jobs, then I left for college. Now I am approaching the breaking point, my father tells me that I need to rid the garage of the project because I plan on not living at home next summer. So here I am with a completely stripped Z frame, all the parts organized on a shelf. In addition to the original equipment, over the years I had purchased a 280Z engine bored out .030, high compression pistons, and a hot cam. I also sand blasted and refinished the front suspension and purchased all new tokico struts and springs along with complete set of new bushings. There is also a set of floorboards and frame rails here as well. Upon completion the vehicle would have been a killer ride. The possibility of me completing the car at this point is non-existant. I have the money to complete the restoration although the time and space is the limiting factor. I go to school in Pittsburgh, 5 hours away from my house. I have thought about storing the project until I can resume, although that will not be until I graduate from college and can afford to have my own garage which will be 3 or more years. I also thought about selling it to another enthusiast, although i feel my chances of finding a buyer on an already stripped vehicle are slim, even though all the parts are here. Does anybody have any suggestions? I'm running out of time
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Rebuilding L28 - which way to go?
I am just curious where you got your prices from. Boring out the block and putting in larger pistons will cost much more than $250. I don't know if you have some really special deals, but the bore alone will cost a hefty amount, and so will new pistons. Doing a rough full price estimate should help with the decision making a little more
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Wishing Everyone A Health and Happy New Z Year
Very nicely said, and I do concur! Great Job mike for making my Z car bui8ld possible! I wish everyone a HAPPY NEW YEAR! Everyone do it safely! I know Ill be cleaning my house for a while tomorrow, ha ha
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Which job is better???
I have always had a certain thought on this type of topic: You will always be able to buy new parts and put them on an older car, no matter what, new parts will always be available, and anybody can buy them and put them on the old car. But the original parts for a car will not always be available, and not everybody will be able buy them making their car original, it takes much more effort to keep a car original and I feel dserves more prestige. My car personally, it is a 1973 so nothing special to keep bone stock. I am keeping it in touch with Z heritage, while doing a few performance modifications to my liking. Because if I am putting this much time and effort into the car, I want the car to be exactly how I want it. So I'm putting in an l28 from a '78 Z and doing some tokico shocks and springs and poly bushings, other than, it is stock. It will still keep the beauty of a stock car, exterior and interior
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- VIDEO - My buddy Jim's ThunderZ ... mm tripple carbs
Great videos proxlamus, I love seeing Z vids, they're so inspiring to finish my car. Hey does anybody know which air dam that is? It looks fantastic
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how can you tell a 240Z from a 280Z?
I believe a vin in the 216 hundred thounsand should be a 260Z right? if that is indeed the correct vin
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how can you tell a 240Z from a 280Z?
Well what is the vin number?
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What did you cover when undercoating?
Zsondabrain, I have the same exact thing going on with my car, I have found a few people with very similar dents. A little while back, I think it might have been Ed who gave me some advice. He said he took a 50 lb. dumbell and dropped it on it a few times and it knocked it right back into place! ALthough my dented is rusted, it doesn't have any holes yet, but it has some extreme surface rust goin on, so I might go with new floors, not sure yet. I had planned on pooring the undercarriage and then using a truck bed liner, although that is starting too look at little bit pricey, although that finish that Ed got is really spectacular, should hold up well too. I haven't ever dealt with truck bed liner, but is there any chance of it detaching from the paint on the undercarriage?
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Nismo Festival 2005
I realize this is a bit nosey, and if you do not feel comfortable with a response statement on an internet board I completely understand. My curiosity has gotten the best of me, but could you tell us about your job? I know everyone else on here is wondering the same thing
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Need expertise of the Z vets!
Because there is no hundred thousand mile figure on the odometer, one cannot be completly positive about a milage claim. It is possible for the car to have 150,000 miles rather than 50,000. Which would warrent plenty of bargaining room in the price. Easiest way to check for validity of the milage claim is to check for spots of common wear and tear. Also you can check stuff like wear on the clutch stop, and maybe even if the braided raidiator hoses are still there that can be a good verification of the low milage. This isn't fool proof though, because it is possible that the car has the low milage and those hoses were just replaced. But you should be able to tell first hand just by overall appearance and a thorough inspection. Even if it did have 150,000 it is probably still a good buy. Good luck with your inspection and possible purchase!
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KYB struts
I don't mean to sound like a jerk here, but is there some reason you are adverse to buying online? Even in you can get KYB's in Saskatchewan, I'm sure you can buy them cheaper on the internet because you'll have some many different vendors to choose from
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Factory service manual
well ill be working and realize i need some assitance from the book, that is the point when I would like the manual right at my fingertips, rather then having to walk in the house and print out some pages on the computer. Just preference, different strokes for different folks right?
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Factory service manual
When I was purchasing an FSM it took me a little while to decide wether I would rather have a book or a cd. They both have their respected advantages and disadvantages. I ended up choosing a book. The book I got was a reprint so I did not feel bad getting it all greasy, but it was always at my fingertips when I needed it. But I did not get a cd because eachtime I needed to go read something off the FSM I would have to wash the grease off my hands and take off my shoes (dirty garage floor) because in the past I have made big black spot on the carpet. Or I would have to get grease on the mouse, keyboard and carpet. This was just my decision, different setups are best for cd/book, to each his own!
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Factory service manual
a '71 for $50? if I were u onuthin I would jump on that, he is giving you a deal and a half. Considering that it will be very similar to the '70 in many respects and it is all consolidated into one manual. 26th is being generous
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HOT HOT Fuse
I had this problem a little while ago, it is because the there is too much resistance at the clip. You have a few options, but your goal is to clean off the clip to give a nice solid contact. I soaked my clip in vinegar. I took a small plastic cup and cut most of it away to make a dish that was maybe 1/2". Then I set it up so the clip was soaking in the vinegar over night. Then the next day I went out with a toothbrush in hand and burshed away, worked like a charm. You can also use electrical contact cleaner as well, but I did not feel like going to buy some so I used an alternative. Once done thios process, my hot fuse problem was fixed
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Besides the Zcar, what are your favorite cars?
Wow, a lot of Z & BMW fans here, both of my loves mixed in one crowd! I am also a bmw fan, I have an e30 325is and I love it! Cars I love other than 240Z: BMW e30 M3 Ferri 250GTO (Gotta love it) 1970's Mini and TVR's entire current lineup. They are all so sexy looking
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Finally Got Em, My New Fat 3 Piece 17" Wheels
The wheels look fantasic! It seems like you got a good deal on them as you are so excited. Yours appears to be first class, keep up the good work O yes, and the masking tap is a nice touch
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Total Suspension Overhaul
No I'm am not referring to that part. I have an impact wrnech as well and used it for that piece I am referring to the nut that holds the strut cartridge in the black tube. It has a very large diameter which made buying a larger wrench necessary. I am referring to the "Gland Packing Assembly" as stated by the FSM. The FSM says I should use a gland packing wrench, although I am sure there is some way around it, as many people on this site do suspension upgrades. Anybody with a tip?
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Total Suspension Overhaul
I am having trouble with the nut-cap that holds the sturt cartridge in the tower. Does anybody have any tips or avice for me on this one? I had to buy a very large wrench specifically for this nut, I got one undone. Although, this one has given me large amounts of trouble. I tried some WD-40 penetrant and I also tried useing a torch to heat it. I put bas of the strut tower in a vice, and then on the other end i use my large wrnech to no avail. How did you guys get yours off? Maybe I need some better penetrant like PB Blaster or something
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Z - 35 Years of Nissan's Sports Car
I just picked up on this thread. I became intrigued and read through the entire 5 pages. I do not want to get into comments about Mortons forward as I know people do not want to read more of what has already been said. If you can get past all the nagging and bitching, the factual information here is excellent and I thoroughly enjoyed it. Alan and 26th, you seem to be of a dying breed. I am afraid once I get older and I still have my 240Z that people like you guys that are so knowledgeable about the topics will almost be nonexistant. Keep up the good work, I love reading what you men have to say. It was stated earlier of some people not having a good idea of who John Morton is, this gives you a little view of him. I felt this would fit in the thread well. For those of you who have not seen this video yet, here is a little food for thought (it is just a short clip) John Morton 240Z Commercial
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How fast does a Z really go?
You cannot sit here and bad mouth our generation telling us that it was harder back then. People adapt. If I was thrown back in your generation now, I'm sure I would not like it and have a rough time with it. Although if I was born in your generation, having never had any of that technology I would have no problem living with out it
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How fast does a Z really go?
I can atest to that as well Zman. When I was sixteen, I spent my entire summer working 50 hour weeks (5, ten hour days a week) working in a seed warehouse/plant. I worked my tail off that summer. At the close of that summer I bought my Z. Although there are many spoiled kids, whatever they want is just given to them, I see where your coming from on that one bpilati. But for me, buying my Z was not easy, because the money I spent on it, I wasted a whole summer earning it. It makes my z more important to me because it came from my sweat of a horrible summer.