AChev

Well I think headlight covers look fantastic, an excellent sleek look. Although I don't think I could ever bring myself to drilling my Z. There would have to be a sacrifice. WAIT,apparently MSA sells headlight coversthat require no drilling at all. Has anybody had experience with thses? How do they look? I also added a poll for headlight covers or no headlight covers, I am curious what the census is.

I have a 1973 240Z with very mild amounts rust, the car spent almost its entire life in Texas. Although it does have the common rust in the front fender and cowel, and also in the floorboard. This winter I wanted to being bodywork and have the car painted, just have it undriveable the whole winter. I wanted to do the bodywork my self and take my time using a modern filler and do the best job I can, note that the body work is minor and in small portions. I also wanted to do the prep work for the paint job myself, as in disassemly, sanding and possibly priming. Then I wanted to take the car to a professional to have the final coat put on. But then I would have to put transport it by truck to have it painted because it would be disassembled. I thought about possibly painting the whole car myslef, but I thought that might be too far fetched, but I don't know. I am still all up in the air with this. I would like to take my time and learn a lot. I also would like to save money, although I want my final result to be good too. I am not sure what I want to do yet. If anybody could give some suggestions or advice pertaining to the topic , that would be great. Thanks all.

Hey , if your front diff. mount ever is created make sure you keep us all posted. Im dying to hear how well it will work. Andy

Well , thanks all, I tried to set mine to 750 or so, but my timing is way off, so i'm going to have to fool with the timeing chain now

Well in that case then if I am going to set my idle around 750 does anybody know what timing I should set it at then? Because the book recommened 550rpms at 10 degress

I was just curious what everybody currently adjusts their idle at. According to the Hayne's Manual, they had idles down at 550 and 700, where as my timing light recorded mine at about 1060. What is a correct idle, and what do all you have yours set at? Thanks all

Well when cleaned the fuse box I did not clean the whole box. I disconnected it and just vinegarized the fuse clip that needed it. I am almost positive I rehooked it up correctly. Well thanks tomohawk and seerex, I hope your solutions work *Luckily the starter problem was just the battery, it was recharged and all is good with the starting, now I just gotta fix the lights and signal*

Check the fuses. I had a very similar problem with my brake lights and them not illuminating. I replaced the fuse and they worked wonderful. I believe it is the fifth fuse down on the left side on a 240. Chances are it is not a fuse becasue you have one brake light working but it is worth a try.

Thanks for the quick reply MOM but the battery is very new and the terminals are already clean, thanks for the suggestion anyway

Well where to start, well I have a 1973 240Z. When I first got the car the running lights and dash lights did not work. I put in a new fuse and they worked but it heated up and blew (on right column third fuse down). So I did a vinegar cleaning and all is well there. Although, I re-hooked up the battery and I went to turn on the car. The car cranked and almost started twice, and then after now after that the cra barely cranks at all it just cranks for 1 second or so and stops, with successive tries it barely makes any noise at all. I also have problems with the low beam lights. When the low beams are turned on all dash and running lights turn on except for low beams. When I switch to high beams the lights turn on, but not on low. Also when the dash lights are turned on the left blinker light is constantly on. The blinkers do not work when the car is at rest, but while driving the car the blinkers work. So there is all my electrical problems laid out. If anybody could give me a hand in solving my problems, that would be wonderful. Thanks All Andy

Well after seeing Mike W's picture of how he mounted his choke it got some ideas running through my head. So I went down to the hardware store and soon enough my choke was mounted, now it is not going anywhere. As soon as I posted a picture of my choke in the gallery I got comments asking for clearer pictures and an explanation of how I mounted it, well here goes: I went down to the hardware store and looked for some type of metal plate or bracket. They had exactly what I was looking for, a 2 foot piece of steel with holes all the way down both sides. I also bought some self-tapping sheet metal screws (stainless). I placed the choke and put the console back on and marked with a very narrow pencil where the choke should lay. I layed the piece of sheet metal on and cut it to size, just so it goes over the transmission tunnel at most a half an inch on each side. It cannot be too long or else the console won't fit when the plate is raised. I then marked my spots for holes once i layed the plate in place. I drilled the holes about 1/2 the size of the sheet metal screws I bought because as you screw them in the metal of the tranny tunnel stretches much more than you think it would. I used 4 large thick washers between the plate and the tunnel on each screw to raise it up to the height where the choke should sit. *Do not put the screws in until you are sure that you have everything exactly right, because the metal stretches if you brin ghte screws in and out too many times, then you have to go buy wider screws* Lay the plate in place and lay the choke where you marked earlier and then mark the plate for the size notch you need to cut out of it. Make sure you account for the space where the choke needs to slide back when it is used, at first i forgot. lay the plate on top of the washerswith screws just laying in the holes and place the choke where it belongs and with one hand hold everything in place, then with the other hand I took white out and used the small brush to mark the underside of the plate where the holes need to be drilled. Holes were drilled. Then when evertyhing was perfect I bolted it all on using just nuts and bolts to bind the choke to the plate , then the sheetmetal screws on the 3 corners. I then used a hammer to push the washers to beneath the palte so they were not sticking out so the console would fit over. Then the console did not fit over exactly, so I used wire cutters to slightly trim the metal runners on the underside of the console by the ashtray cover. That is about it, it did not go as smoothly as I wrote it, there was very much trial and error, but it ended up working great, and now that choke it locked down hard. I hoped I helped those in need of a choke remount. I attached a picture of my mount. I know some people wanted a clearer photo. If you need one P.M. me and Ill get you a better photo.