AChev

I could post a picture of my house, although I decided not to. For the reason that the house is not really my house, since I am 16 I have no ownership and pay no bills. What a golden age

Yea, I see what you mean inf. A little while back there was a big discussion about speed limits, and surprisingly it turned out there were many mixed views. Some felt they should be able to go fast. Although many of them believed that there is a time and place for driving at excessive speeds, I agree with them

Although, when my stand fell over I was pulling the engine stand with the one wheel trailing, the wheel was pivoted towards me when I started, all the sudden it did 180 degree pivot while I was trying to pull it and it forced the weight of the engine to shift and well you know the rest

I used a heat gun and paint scraper also. A tool that also came in very handy was a chisel meant for wood. I would heat up maye a 6" x 6" sectionand then using the chisel I would slide it beneath the tar paper and hit it with a hammer, that was very effective, it worked better than my paint scraper and screw drivers. When all was said and done it was not too bad. Although I would have especially preferred to use dry ice. Work smarter not harder I always say

My drain plug was only a square. I was unsure if a special tool is to be used for this, but to remove it but I just took my 1/2" impact wrench with no socket on it.

I was wondering this when I was removing my mastter brake cylinder and lines. Is brake fluid a rust inhibitor or a cause of rust? I had thought it was an inhibitor but I found so much rust where brake fulid would have leaked.

yea, he's always out to get me

Well I guess I could look at it that way. Anyways, I have my new stand all assembled, and the engine is on it nice and sturdy, and I drained the oil (what small small amount that was left) I don't know why I did not do it earlier. You guys have made my disaster slightly better, because I am already back where I was this morning. Thanks all

Hey to those who have the engine stand we are talking about, is it safe to move the stand when the engine is one it. The manual that came with the stand does not condone it, although is'nt that what the casters are for? Please re-assure, if it really is unsafe I will not move it once the engine is one, for I am ungodly freightened of a repeat. Thanks to all for the help

Man pancho, that sounds significantly worse than my experience. The worst part that happened to me was the oil clean up. We have un painted garage floors how ever many gallons of engine oil plus thre tranny oil was a horrible clean up, like a hundred rags were thrown away, all day scrubbing with paint thinner and degreaser , and then a hefty rinse. Actually it cleaned up better than I thought. Anyways I got my new 1000 lbs engine stand with 4 legs, non of that 3 leg garbage.

Thanks Carl. I am off to harbor freight. I would easily spend $50 to prevent this from happening again. What a nightmere. When it toppled it was inches away from smashing the front fender of the car also. I definately would have cried in that case.

About 1 week ago I removed my engine and put it on an engine stand. The engine stand I was using was a run-of-the-mill 3 leg engine stand with mounting bracket. So the engine was mounted on it at all was well. I began to notice the front wheel on the stand was a little shoddy but it was ok. So today I rolling the whole unti to move it, and I must have hit a pebble or something, all the sudden the front wheel pivots to turn around. The sudden shift in the movement of the wheel caused the whole engine to begin to tip. I wanted to save it, but last week I had a plate and screws put in my left hand so it was in a cast, and there was no way I could save it with just my right. As soon as I know it the whole engine and stand is falling to it's death at the concrete floor. The valve cover was off so oil spilled EVERYWHERE. Not only was it engine oil, there was a bucket of old tranny oil next to it which was knocked over also. I have been cleaning up for hours know. What a disaster. Here is where I am looking for some advice. I thought mounting the engine to the bell housing was sufficient, but from now on I need a sturdier setup, what do you guys recomend, and what brand. I am having a horrible day. Andy P.S. So far I am extremely fortunate to find that nothing on the engine has been seriously harmed. Luckily the oil filter caught the fall and was smashed, but I'll take that over a cracked block. It could have turned out to be much worse than it was

Sorry Carl, although on this one I can honestly say I have done my homework. I have read many many threads on paint removal, but I could not quite decide which one is best for me. I spent a long time thinking about it today, and I think for the largest sections I will be using chemical stripper. A small amount of media blasting , only in certain areas, suches as engine bay nooks.

Very shortly my car will be stripped down to nothing. Currently all that is left is the suspension brakes and wheels. I have been thinking about this for a long time but I could not come toa decision. My car has about average rust, small <1" hole in fender, sparce surface rust, you know how it goes. There is the factory paint job and then another paint job on top that. I plan on having the car painted. I think I am going to do paint removal and priming by myself to save money and because I would like to try it myself. I will be coordinating with m paint shop on this. But for paint removal what is the best method? I have read sand blasting not desireable for it deforms the metal, although what about this "soda" blasting Is manual sanding and chemical stripper the way to go? If I am going to do that is the best way to remove rust by manual sanding removal. I attempted to find a dipping place (similar to 26-th) although I was I came up empty. Advice is greatly appreciated, and I hope everyone will share the methods they used for paint removal and preperation. Thanks all

Wow, that is ridiculous. Do you have any idea what kind of car that is?

That is good stuff ,Will you should just quite fooling around and get your psychology degree

Is he referring to me as mr.dumass?

Well can we get some description of those rust spots. It is hard to tell how deep they are, if it is just surface or holes are what. I don't think you would have to replace the whole "body" as you stated. Maybe the real panel, as it is not part of the roof due to a covered seam. Just my opinion. Waiting to hear more

I just pulled my first engine 3 days ago, I'm ecstatic! Anyways, crusader engine stands are pretty simple I am sure you could build one your self. All mine is a 3 leg base, then the top has a tube in which the bracket mount tube goes and you lock it with a pin. Although if you are making one I'd assume fabricating the bracket and/or engine mount arms ,as mine also has, would be fairly tough and time consuming. You could build one yourself, or just as easily you could go and purchase one. Another suggestion would be to call around to local garages, sometimes they have used ones that they can sell. I posted a small diamgram of what my engine stand looks like, I am sure it looks pretty close to everybody elses.

Yea , what you did is probably the best choice. Although, it is possible the spray paint jobs hold, only time will tell! But overall I do not think it will be terrible if the pain peels becuase....we are talking about the transmission, which commonly remains unseen

I just pulled my first engine 3 days ago, I am ecstatic!! Anyways I took the tranmission off and I was thinking about this exact topic, but I came across something I was unsure of. How hot does the transmission get when running? I assumed it would become fairly warm from the propeller shaft and gears spinning, along with the exhaust nearby. I had thought about using a standard spraypaint as some fo you did, but I was not sure if it would stay.