sopwith21

Aha. Okay, that's helpful. Thank you. I guess the first thing I need to know is which diff I have. How can I tell? My second question is - using only the parts shown in my other thread, am I or am I not prepared to fix a half shaft failure at the track?

Thanks, that's very helpful. Please take a look at this post. This is not a complete half shaft, but is there anything here that might help? Please tell me exactly what fails on the shafts, and if I need to buy that part of the shaft or the whole half shaft set. Is this exactly what I'm looking for? I have a welded 260z rear end, so I believe it is still the original R200 (I did not race prep the car - it was built and then I bought it). I'd like to get the shafts in advance of our race in a few weeks and your advice is appreciated. Tx!

That's what I thought. Not only is 3rd to 4th about 0.01 closer than 2nd to 3rd, but I can use it nearly twice as often in the race. I still need to figure out what trannies I have exactly. I know I have one four speed and one five speed... that's all I can say for sure.

That's very helpful! I had a new engine put in at the same time as the new tranny, so it is possible that the increase in speed was due to the engine alone and not the tranny at all. I'll check for the exhaust hangars and hope its a pre 1980.5 model. This site seems to claim that there is a difference in the ratios of the 260z vs. the 75-79 280. I can't figure that out? Scroll down the page until you see the Transmission Ratios and tell me what you think. Something to remember... I use 2nd gear twice per lap, but I use 4th gear either 3 or 4 times per lap. So a closer ratio between 3rd and 4th would theoretically help more than a closer ratio between 2nd and 3rd.

Don't know... we never use 5th gear on the track and I've never shifted it into 5th. The car is up on a lift for a few days but maybe we can at least see if it will shift into 5th cleanly. That's a good thought, though.

Howdy all; My 74 260z **racecar** has been retro-fitted with a 2.8L and a 5-speed tranny. I don't know which 5-speed it is. When putting it into reverse, the shifter grinds and will not stay in place. I can use a great deal of hand pressure to hold it in - just enough to get the car barely rolling - and then it pops out of reverse and into neutral again. My mechanic thought it was a linkage problem but it is not - the shifter goes straight down into the tranny housing. What could be causing this? Should I swap back to our original 4-speed before the race in case of failure? The 4-speed is not as fast, but maybe that's the more reliable way to go. Your opinions are appreciated!

I had a half shaft fail on my 260z racecar a few years ago. Is this a common problem for Z cars, especially since mine has a welded diff? We have a race coming up later this month and I'm wondering if I should have an extra one on hand, and if so, exactly what other parts would be necessary to install it? Thanks!

Hi all; Can anyone help me identify these parts for my 260z? Just found a bin of parts and am going through it. Looks like maybe pic #1 is a half shaft? Pics 2 & 3 are the same parts from different angles. Ditto for pics 4 & 5. Thanks for your help! See below.

Since this is a racecar and I don't need turn signal ports, either one should work if they mount the same... do they? Tx!

Is there any difference between the early and late model 260 front valances?

Need complete lower front valance... best deal I can find online is $155 for all 3 pieces, shipping included. Does anyone have any better ideas? Thanks!

BTW, we are carrying the Datsun banner proudly in a field full of Miata's! (Blick!)

This forum is always great for advice, set up tips, etc., and many of you have helped me solve car issues here before... so here's my car in action early in 2013 at Hallett Motor Racing Circuit in Oklahoma. I had just taken the lead in the first event when the I got punted. In the second event I had to come from the back (7th in class, but starting about 20th in the overall field) to finish on the podium. And yes, we turned the fastest lap of the race. Would have won both events if we hadn't been punted. Thanks for all the advice from everyone on this forum!

Just ordered one from Ebay distributor in OH, $179 and I can pick it up with no charges.

I ran with cracked glass for a long time, but last year they freaked out and demanded it be replaced. I asked them if uncracked aftermarket glass was as strong as OEM with a crack, and if aftermarket glass was the same gauge, weight and safety, and of course they had no clue. Remember, it's not about safety... its about obedience.

Would love to but our class requires original glass

Aha... I just found the same one. Thanks. It's still about $150 cheaper, so that's progress.

Jiminy Christmas!!!!! $525 for windshield and gasket delivered? Ouch. Thank you for the option. At least I have one now... better than no ideas at all. I'll do it if I have to, but man alive, surely there's a cheaper alternative. I'll hit up Ebay later tonight, too. Thanks again! Anyone else got an ideeer?

Well, this just gets better and better... now the glass company says PPG (which has been bought out and is no longer PPG) does not carry this windshield any more and I need to find one from another source. Any ideas? Thanks!

I like the look, but my trailer has such a bad angle that I'm afraid it wouldn't clear. That's a constant headache on this car... and since valances are cheaper than trailers... well...

Jeff, I love the garden edging idea. I have a whole yard full of that junk and I hate it... this is the perfect chance to recycle! Can you post close-up photos of how the L brackets and studs are placed... that would save us a lot of experimenting. Many thanks!

Hi all; The nose of my '74 260z *racecar* has been altered from stock. A different front air dam/valance has been installed and is so low to the ground that I can barely load the car onto a trailer to get to a race. Aerodynamics are not that critical since our speeds are less than 130 mph, so I'd like to make the car appear as stock as possible by restoring the nose to something resembling a stock configuration. The more factory appearance I can get, the better I'll like it. Important note - the headlight openings and the fog lamp openings are now used for brake ducts and must remain. They're vital to the car's performance. Can anyone recommend stock-appearing parts to reconstruct the lower valance and grill area? Many thanks!

Okay guys, many thanks. I've studied all the links provided, which really helps me visualize the issue since I am a race driver, NOT a mechanic. I'm buying the parts and overseeing a mechanic doing the work. So please tell me what you think of this, based on your input above: Keep the parts list intact (see above) but replace the solid diff mount with the TechnoVersions semi-solid mount with the urethane stud in the center. This car has a racing engine that puts out an estimated 210 hp, so I'm afraid of going with a strictly stock mount. I'm sure we're stressing the rear bushings considerably more than intended. Do you guys think this is a winning combination? Thanks again.

Read the whole thing, thanks. I'd like to stay with the Spring Works polyurethane mustache bar bushings, but... My searches are turning up lots of solid diff mounts, but few aftermarket urethane/rubber ones. Any suggestions? I think it's a cheap fix that probably needs done... now I just need to find the right part. Will keep looking.

Fantastic - many thanks everyone! Double check me here... I've done biz with Rock Auto before and will get the U-joint through them. I think I'll get the Differential Carrier "Mustache Bar" Bushings here - Spring Works - energy suspension polyurethane auto bushings nissan. And I'll try the new aluminum solid diff mount here on this site: Motorsport! Solid Differential Mount, 70-78* 240Z-260Z-280Z - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts I think this should eliminate the "clunking" sound, eliminate any shifting and wear on the stock diff mount, and pre empt any failure of the u-joint. Do you guys agree? Are these the right parts, and is there anything else I've missed here? Thanks again!