alternativez

I'd pick up a used one with knowledge that it's working and correctly matched to your engine. Plug it in and see if the problem is fixed. Could be a poor wire in the connector?

Once resolved an exasperating no-start problem on my '85 BMW 635, finally determining the problem to be inside the ecu. By that time I was fearless or desperate, so I judiciously reflowed solder in suspected circuits. Worked in my case. Hope this is relevant. Good luck!

Wow! You've done an amazing job with your z, and it was surely a cool and exciting reward to take it on vacation! Thanks for sharing the story through this excellent thread!

Pick up a few feet of good quality small diameter vacuum hose at the parts store and cut to lengths. Larger moulded stock pieces you can get from your dealer or catalog. It's good maintenance to check or replace them due to age and operating conditions. They may appear decent, but soft hoses can collapse, and brittle hoses may leak at connections and at minute cracks, especially in cold weather.

I haven't worked on the L24 for a long time, but this sounds like the intake is trying to compensate for an air/vacuum leak. Check for loose fitting, hardened, softened, cracked vacuum hoses large and small and one-way check-valves. I'd say just replace all hoses due to age, but checking them while the engine is running will identify or eliminate where the problem is, if it is. Hose to mechanical advance in the distributor would be a good place to start. Also, I'm pretty sure those throttle return springs should be equal. Good luck!

The 280z has a ecu? I'm not so familiar, but I'm assuming it does. The ecu is the heart. Do they ever fail? Wild chance, I suppose, but I spent a month once with similar problem, different car. Checked and rechecked everything related, components, circuits, absolutely drove me nuts. Finally, i hit on the thing all manuals say to leave alone, the ecu. I took it apart, and of course it looked fine. Then I discovered my other car had the same ecu. Swapped them; car ran perfectly. I figured luck was on my side, so I judiciously reflowed some solder on the "mother board" and it was fine. Not prescribing this as your route, just maybe to say, don't overlook old electronics and the central component. Good luck!

6. Keep the fridge stocked. I think you shouldn't worry about replacing the core plugs just now. You can check compression as long as your timing chain is properly aligned to cam and crank and with tension. See your engine book. I'm hoping you find no fluid on the cylinders and no loss of compression at any piston. I'd be getting the pan off, if only to clean that goop out. Examine everything for anything suspicious. You haven't said if the motor uses oil frequently or leaves puddles or has seeps, only the small coolant? leak up front. And no white exhaust, which likely be steam from vaporized coolant, or blue, which would likely be oil. Yet, absence of proof is not proof of absence. Gotta be sure. I'll bet somebody knows what this problem is, and they're waiting for you to figure it out. Good luck!

And more zip locks. Daniel, are you still dead set on (A) changing the head gasket, or are you interested in ( repairing your motor? If you answered A, ignore this post, if B, I hope you have not removed the head yet. I suggest putting your timing chain right, too, if possible. You really should get compression readings for each cylinder. Can you take out the spark plugs and check for coolant in the cylinders? If so, use a syringe and piece of clear tubing, like for an aquarium pump and see if you can syphon it out and spray something to absorb the coolant and lightly lube the cylinder walls. Of there is no fluid in there, you and I will deserve one of those beers. I also suggest removing the oil pan. Check it carefully for shreds, crumbs and chunks of steel, aluminum, any thing. If nothing, I think we should have another. Could you post pics of any parts you've removed, especially inside, mounting surfaces, water pump for example. Get same for block. Get pics of the block from several views. Get your radiator pressure and flow tested. Do whatever you can to determine the cause of the coolant in the oil. Sorry for long posts. Cheers! Jim

Daniel, take detailed pics of everything as it is, before and during assembly. Don't assume anything is correct on your engine, such as hose connections. This is zen stuff. Patience and perseverance are valuable tools.

Mike, Beautiful car! Great wheel/tire set up for a potent looking stance. Your son has good taste, too. The pilots are the top choice on my wish list for my '70 z project. I've had michelins, but not pilot sports, on a high spirited '76 BMW 2002 for a couple of years, and I just can't wear them out! Mine are great except for snow traction, but I have dedicated snows for Midwest winters; not so relevant in Texas, I suppose. Any feedback from your driving on the pilots? Are they everything one expects from Michelin, partularly on the rwd z? Quiet on highway, I assume?

This is perplexing; I recommend more troubleshooting, at least some info about your latest sequence. Was the coolant at the proper level in the radiator before you drained it? Any chance you pressurized the cooling system before you removed the radiator and water pump? Did you remove radiator, then water pump and thermostat? Removed block drain plugs? Did you collect all that coolant? Earlier you had reported no oil in the radiator. Was there no oil in any of that, just good, clean, bright green coolant? So, with three gal or more mixed from the oil pan, how much fluids were in the engine and radiator? Have you removed the oil pan? Have you noticed any evidence of steel or aluminum shavings or bits? Are the insides or mating surfaces of any of the parts or block badly pitted or corroded? I favor defining the cause of the problem or at least an informed hypothesis and using further disassembly to gather as much fact as possible. You may well end up replacing lots of parts to correct the problem, but you don't want to replace a lot of parts and not correct the problem. You pretty much have to imagine or know what all the possible problems could be and eliminate them, and this is likely a combination of problems. As you started with a "hack job," I imagine you don't want to end up with one. I think you have some empathy here because many of us have decades of personal and professional auto mechanics experience, yet we've all had to learn a lot of it the hard way, as you seem just as willing to do. I don't usually hang out on forums, but I'm literally laid up with some muscle injuries, so I've been very interested in your story. I do hope you get this figured out soon, before I'm back on my feet! I'm still looking for reasons why coolant has been pumped into your lubrication system, but doesn't seem to have returned as that mixture to the radiator, and doesn't seem to have made it into the compression chambers. Good luck!

I admire your spirit. I know you're pretty tied up; maybe spare a few to put up some pics? Wish we'd had the internet when I was young. Woulda saved me a lot of trouble. Good luck!

Indeed. I'm out. Pretty far from Indy. Perhaps now someone local will pick up on this. Good luck.

If coolant has contaminated the oil, as it seems to have done, either as the engine was running or just sitting for a while, that answer has many parts. Have you been driving the car prior to discovering the problem? Don't try it, but do you think it would start and run now otherwise? You need to know if your engine is damaged in order to know what you need. Otherwise, you assume the worst and study up on rebuilding your engine. A first hands on step would be to drain the oil pan to see how much coolant has gotten into the oil, and drain some coolant to see how much oil is in the coolant. You will eventually be draining both entirely, no doubt. Once you get some specific task to do, there are excellent threads on this site to help you. You will also get good advice. Several threads are documenting engine rebuilds right now. I've not actually worked on an L24 for a really long time, so I'm just trying to help you with a a little general diagnosis. Sounds like you are willing to conquer this, but you need many parts like gaskets, thermostat, hoses, etc. You do need to determine the extent of problems and the extent to which you reasonably will have to go to repair. A professional estimate by a local shop is recommended. The more you can tell them will help them figure it out. Good luck!

Milky fluid on the dipstick and in oil pan,too? Please provide a little helpful history, i.e. How did you arrive at the point where a car seems only driven briefly or slightly has this problem? Was it being driven and something happened? How long has the problem existed? What condition is the car in general? Pretty much dead? A beater? A project? Usable for daily driving? Taxi? Won it at cards? Just kidding. Update though, if you will. Seems like you may have to do a little more than just change a gasket. Say you didn't take your uncle's spotless toy out and slam it around while he's out of town. Still DIY, what with a garage, beer, tools, and oh yeah, desperation? You're ready. Psst. Fly me (and my wife, of course) first class from Indiana and put us up comfortably for as long as it takes (read the fine print) to put this vehicle to rights, all meals and clothing allowances and customary day trip stipends included, of course...Sorry, not presently in the market for offspring, however, as your earlier post suggests. I hope I'm safe presuming you still have a sense of humor, a great ally at times like this.

Oh, as to a solution, if coolant has not contaminated anything, such as oil during startup or prepped gasket or surfaces, you shouldn't (insert any number of qualifiers and waivers) have a problem. I understand at your point of pain/joystaking accomplishment how concerned you are. Hope you find it's minimal, just adding suspense and drama in a great love story! Farmer solution: Kerosene will wick coolant out of oil and from surfaces, in an operating engine as well. Cheers!

It may be fair to say, as I admit, dumping coolant during an assembly is practically a rite of passage. Taking it in stride. Nice. Good karma.

This thread is excellent! What a fabulous job and a fine trophy to enjoy and share! You inspire craftsman and artist. Cheers to you in the finishing touches! Jim

So, I'm laid up with a muscle strain, otherwise I'm not into other peoples lives, yet visiting this site frequently, I find it a really good site and your story interesting, that with good intent, no real knowledge of your situation, and no legal responsibility, I would toss this caveat: be sure you consider all parties involved or interested and transfer the title whether you register and plate it or don't, before you act. I hope that everything works out. On this site, pick a thread like "how do I change my head gasket?" Or, "what rims and tires?" You will learn a lot. Enjoy!

Great Dave, glad you're back! You have just enrolled in a lifetime course of study. Most of us us have done considerable reading and debating the points you wish to know. Now, some questions for you. Have you dragged, pushed, begged the Z into a decent, comfortable, lighted work space? How long has the car been sitting? Inside? Outside? Do you have a clear title? All cars, new or customized, are a collection of compromises, i.e. power vs economy; I think you want power. Comfort vs tight handling: you have a smooth ride already. Highly modified, close specs motor vs starts easily and runs smoothly for your fiancé. I suggest you start a library of engine building literature and cruise forums to learn how the variables of generations of internal combustion motors have been designed. Too tight internal tolerances may work theoretically, but, due to heat and friction can result in seizures or rapid wear. Custom building is a jigsaw puzzle in which every piece has to work together for the whole to work. Study. Study. Study. At nineteen, when I decided my first needed more "old school" grunt, I took it to a reputable? independent German car shop for a better cam, valves, etc. $950 investment blew out the bottom of the motor within a month, and there was no recompense. So, since my buddies were into Chevys, we installed a modified 327. It lost its original flavor and handling characteristics. Too aggressive for my real needs. Sorry, another long post, but I'll conclude with the speculation that some purists would berate me for bringing up the name of Albrecht Goertz. Goertz was an industrial designer, having worked on BMW styling and arguably may possibly have contributed some elements of the original z and Toyota 2000gt designs. There are also familial connections between Datsun, Prince, and Mercedes engine designs. So, since I loved the big six from the overweight 635, I just thought a small personal tribute to Goertz would also be a great car. Ok. I put that out there in good faith I'm not offending anyone's sensitivities. My daily driver is a 1976 BMW 2002 with m42 engine, 5 spd trans, all electrical and electronics, FI, CPU, from a 1991 318is (a particularly nice twin overhead cam w/header) I added rack and pinion and a limited slip diff from other BMW models. Anyway, even keeping it in the BMW marque, and keeping fabrication to a minimum in order to easily replace parts, it was about three years of intense study and practice to get it right. Much improved over the original carb, 4 speed, truck-like behaviors. It has started and run perfectly in any climate conditions for about five years with no maintenance other than oil changes. Do it carefully, do it right, and it will work reliably. Patience and careful planning and extreme attention to details! Now, start with a good cleanup and try to rejuvenate any parts to functional and you will build confidence and skills. Good luck with your fabulous find! (Given any thought to electric? Ha!) Peace! Jim

So David, I intend this to address your original query, but could we start from a different perspective? You realize you may be the owner of possibly a very cool car, and you are enthusiastic. Excellent! Let's pose to the group here, where there is a lot of maturity; I for example, owned my first series1 when it and I were very young. It became a an 327 with raw power unbecoming its previously suave unassuming ability to knock any camaro or mustang back. I was young and enthusiastic. I still have a lot of enthusiasm for the series 1 I've been dragging around for about 25 years as the last car I intend to build. So let's say we've just had one of the coolest cars ever, not only for its historic interest, but great handling and power in its day dropped in our lap. I'll bet if you could get the brakes, suspension, interior, body, etc looking and rolling as you would like it to, you would be very proud of your car, assuming you and your fiancé are tight in a long term relationship, and there is a great joy in doing this sort of thing ground up with her support. As for the engine, see what condition it is in and could it run with minor expense. Then, pose the question: hey, if you just got hold of a series 1, what would you do? And you will find that question answered in a variety of ways. We've all seen or started tough projects that may never get finished. Fortunately, Z's have been so popular that pretty much everything is out there to build one any way you please. Folks here like a good project and will be very helpful. Start the dream over. It's still good. Learn as you go, do as much as possible yourself, and you will be driving it and grinning bigger sooner. Get a catalog and make an outline of each area, such as brakes. List every possible part you would need to simply rebuild the car to driveable. See how much money you have left to buy some nice wheels and new seats and stereo. You will have a hard time keeping up with installing all those cool parts on a basically stock Z. Then, when adding power or economy even, the engine work will declare itself. Lighten up a little, ask forgiveness, and not only will you find good advice, but people here who have extra parts and time and money-saving mechanical skills. My Z desire: the drivetrain from one of my other favorite cars, BMW e24 635. Why? Several reasons, but mostly because...I have it all, electronics and all, and lots of experience and huge amount of patience. Peace. Jim

Ninja, it is well you and everyone else on that highway are safe. You were foolish but lucky. Here's another perspective: coasting down grade in neutral is not only dangerous, but also against the law in many states for just that reason. Your video has provided proof of at least one driving infraction, maybe more. Surely a driving course or the study to acquire the privilege of a dr. license would advise that it is the responsibility of the driver to be well acquainted with the laws and driving considerations of that state or any through which one drives. Youth or blame are not excuses for ignorance. Such laws are easily accessible online. The ensuing debate about downhill engine braking in a properly functioning vehicle is productive, but mute in this case when the driver should have immediately put on emergency flashers and pulled off to ensure everyone's safety. Your recorded comments demonstrated that you did recognize but ignored the fatal possibility of filming your own death. Perhaps having an in-car camera and the present day propensity to record and publicly share bizarre, exciting, risky, and even illegal behavior were motivation to discard common sense and consideration for others, including your buddy in front of you, whom I'm sure would have come back if you had put on flashers, flashed headlights, or better yet, pulled off. Sorry. I don't mean to be rude. I hope you will give serious retrospection rather than defense, and I'm glad you survived to openly and honestly present the topic for discussion and education. This thread will perhaps save lives. "Live and learn," yes, but better yet, "learn and live!"

The +10 offset placed the wheel slightly closer to the spring.

Study up on the mathematics of offset, wheel sizes, etc. Use the conversion tables on tire sites, or use the formula for yourself. You can fit some fairly extreme sizes under a z without flares, so extreme is relative, but flares sort of demand a wider wheel and tire combination, or even allow a negative offset. You will find lots of choices, but there are lots of variables: look, practicality, clearance, ride, cost, wheel and tire availability and more. Describe your goals or look at images of what others have done, but arm yourself with the knowledge of how all the measurements have to work with the realities, compromises, etc. basically, though z offsets are low, depending on wheel width, 0, 4, 10, for example. High offsets move the mounting surface of the wheel outward relative to wheel center and place the wheel deeper into the fender and won't work on the z without spacers; low offsets move the mounting of the wheel inward relative to wheel center and have a deeper outer dish, more like the "muscle car" look of rear wheel drive cars. 0, 4, 10 place the mounting face near the center of the wheel. A negative offset really pushes the wheel out farther. It's probably wise on the z to keep the mounting surface of the wheel near the center of the wheel, no matter the width, as long as you have clearance.

Glad you got it worked out, and thanks for the update. Your z looks nice! Now maybe you can get back to enjoying the ride! I like your stagger sizes. Come back with your impressions of the tires, the ride, etc. thanks.